Antica Osteria L'Agania

This small joint doesn't bother with a wine list; a staff member plunks down a bottle of the eminently quaffable house chianti, and you pay for what you drink. The locals pack into this long, wood-paneled room for unpretentious food like their grandmas used to make. They come especially for the thick rib-sticking ribollita, but you can also mix and match gnocchi, tagliatelle, and creamy polenta with the basic Tuscan sauces (the gnocchi and the ragù make a nice combo). The trattoria proudly offers the lovely "local dishes" foreign visitors rarely order, such as tripe and the very fatty grifi e polenta (chunks of veal stomach in polenta). You may find your taste buds more attuned to the arista (roast pork) or polpette fritte con patate (fried meatballs with roast potatoes).

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