La Charcuterie

This charcuterie opened in the war year of 1942 when the Nazis occupied most of France. The little deli thrived in a small space and now has been turned into one of the most beloved bistros in Arles. The old pig figurines are still there but the owners, François Colcombet and his wife Regoyya, have added such flourishes as red velvet banquettes. They have created what they call a bistro des copains -- a bistro just for friends.

The menu is small and is prepared by Regoyya, an Arlesian. She is not a vegetarian, and the menu showcases enough meat and poultry to satisfy a dinosaur. Her specialty is Charloais beef or rack of lamb, among the best seasoned and most tender meats in town, and she also does a wonderful grilled duck breast. In honor of their former business, the couple still serves an assiette anglaise, a lavish spread of deli meats and warm saucisson of Lyon studded with pistachio nuts.

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