Hotels

You'll be hard-pressed to find a lemon among Aruba's hotels and resorts. At the very least, accommodations on the island are above average; in many cases, they're downright amazing. Hotels appreciate your business, and it shows, from the bend-over-backward service to the endless array of amenities.

Lodging is a competitive business on the island. When one hotel introduces a new feature, the others scramble to match or beat it. As a result, all of the upscale resorts have a casino, a fitness center, some kind of spa, an assortment of dining and drinking venues, lush gardens, and magnificent pools. Even modest lodges have amenities you wouldn't expect for the price.

So how do you decide where to stay?

If you'd rather be in the middle of the action than on an expansive beach, stay in Oranjestad. It's not a big town, but it has big-town casinos, restaurants, shopping, and nightlife. And it's no more than a 10-minute drive from the best beaches.

A 15-minute walk northwest from Oranjestad, the Low-Rise area has the feel of an unpretentious beach town. It's a mix of boutique hotels, peaceful timeshares, and large, low-lying resorts. Rooms here are generally a good value. As the lengthy, uncrowded beach extends up the coast, its name changes from Bushiri to Druif to Manchebo to Eagle. Not all the Low-Rise hotels are beachside -- a small road separates several from the water -- but that keeps the beach tranquil. Drink and snack bars are few and far between, motorized watersports are discouraged, piers are nowhere to be seen, and the beach is wide and generally uncrowded, but restaurants and other amenities are just across the road.

A brief limestone outcrop separates Eagle Beach from Palm Beach and the High-Rise area. A mix of Miami Beach and San Juan's Isla Verde, the glamorous High-Rise hotels usually have several stars next to their names in travel-agent brochures. Most front the beach, all boast amenities that go on and on, and some rise as high as 18 stories. Despite the glitz associated with the area, moderately priced options are readily available. The mile-long strand here is as dazzling as Eagle Beach, but it's narrower and there's less room for isolation. Smart bars and beachside restaurants line the strip. Piers projecting into the sea serve diving and fishing boats as well as other motorized equipment.

Hotels and timeshares inland from the Low-Rise and High-Rise areas lack the allure of instant beach access, but most are still within a 10- to 20-minute stroll of the sea. Naturally, their rates are lower.

In general, you'll find more Americans and a more mature crowd during the first 4 months of the year. After April, families, budget-conscious travelers, and Europeans make up an increasing part of the mix. South Americans have a greater presence during their winter (June-Aug). Just a hop, skip, and a jump away from Aruba, Venezuelans and Colombians pop over for holiday weekends year-round. Recent economic and political crises, especially in Venezuela and Argentina, have hurt Aruba's South American business, though.

A word about rates: Some hotels have extremely complex rate schedules, with prices varying within certain months and several times a year. I've condensed some of these schedules in the listings; of course, you'll always want to confirm rates before you book. Also know that the prices quoted are rack rates. Rack rates are the published prices that hotels charge customers who walk in off the street. In most cases, you can get an infinitely more affordable rate by opting for a package, offered by tour operators or the hotels themselves.

In the same vein, although hotels are grouped by price category, think of the groupings as ballpark figures. Hotels change rates at different times during the year and spontaneously to reflect supply and demand, so an "Expensive" hotel could be more affordable than a "Moderate" resort during a seasonal window of opportunity. Also, lumping traditional hotels and all-inclusives together is like comparing apples to mangos. To determine the relative value of an all-inclusive, you'll have to add the estimated cost of food, drink, and other amenities offered by the all-inclusive to the price of accommodations alone at a traditional hotel.

One last point: Every hotel listed here provides room phones and ample free parking unless otherwise stated.

Off-Season Savings -- Although occupancy rates during the low season (about mid-Apr to mid-Dec) remain high, prices plummet by up to 50%.

Freebies for Kids

The One Cool Family Vacation (OCFV) program entices families to visit Aruba during the summer (June-Sept). Here's the deal: Kids under age 13 get an assortment of freebies such as bed-and-breakfast, daily activities, sightseeing tours, cruises, snorkeling, and scuba lessons. In addition, discounts are offered for a submarine ride, horseback riding, car rental, and even film developing. The program covers two children for every paying adult. Contact the Aruba Tourism Authority (tel. 800/TO-ARUBA; www.aruba.com) for a list of participating resorts.

Sustainable Tourism

A kind of environmental Good Housekeeping seal of approval, the Green Globe 21 certificate recognizes hotels around the world that develop and implement sound, eco-friendly policies. The Amsterdam Manor Aruba Beach Resort was Aruba's first resort to be certified, followed quickly by the Aruba Bucuti Beach Resort and Tara Beach Suites, Spa Costa Linda Beach Resort, Manchebo Beach Resort, Playa Linda, and La Cabana All-Suite Beach Resort & Casino. The Aruba Beach Club is the latest hotel to make the list. Bucuti guests and nonguests alike are invited to join in on beach clean-ups at 8:30am on the third Wednesday of every month. Volunteers are rewarded for their efforts with a hearty free breakfast and a group photo. Check www.greenglobe21.com to see current listings throughout the Caribbean.