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Asilah's medina is a quaint, compact circuit of lanes and alleys of predominately white and blue buildings (reflecting the influence of past Iberian powers) and makes for a pleasant hour's exploration. It's largely a residential quarter and lacks the intensity or haggling that accompanies some other medinas in the country. Make sure you head down to Bab Krikiya, where there's a popular viewing platform affording sweeping views of the coast and is a great spot to watch the sun go down. From here you'll also see Palais Raissouli, built by Riffian rogue, thief, kidnapper, and all-round troublemaker Moulay Ahmed er Raissouli. Raissouli was known for kidnapping Westerners for large ransoms in the early 1900s. The palace is now a cultural center used during the culture festival, and it's said that captives who incurred Raissouli's wrath were literally made to walk the plank from the palace windows, falling to their death on the rocks below. As you're walking around, note the modern murals on some of the houses in the medina, painted -- and repainted -- over the years by artists during the festival. Just outside Bab Bhar, early-morning wanderers will see the town's fishermen repairing nets and scrubbing the decks.


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