Things To Do in Asilah

Asilah's medina is a quaint, compact circuit of lanes and alleys of predominately white and blue buildings (reflecting the influence of past Iberian powers) and makes for a pleasant hour's exploration. It's largely a residential quarter and lacks the intensity or haggling that accompanies some other medinas in the country. Make sure you head down to Bab Krikiya, where there's a popular viewing platform affording sweeping views of the coast that is a great spot to watch the sun go down. From here you'll also see Palais Raissouli, built by Riffian rogue, thief, kidnapper, and all-around troublemaker Moulay Ahmed er Raissouli. Raissouli was known for kidnapping Westerners for large ransoms in the early 1900s. The palace is now a cultural center used during the culture festival, and it's said that captives who incurred Raissouli's wrath were literally made to walk the plank from the palace windows, falling to their death on the rocks below. As you're walking around, note the modern murals on some of the houses in the medina, painted -- and repainted -- over the years by artists during the festival. Just outside Bab Bhar, early morning wanderers will see the town's fishermen repairing nets and scrubbing the decks.

There are a few shops in the medina selling the usual assortment of crafts imported from elsewhere in Morocco. Jordi el Gaabouri's Bazar Atlas, at the east end of rue Tijara (tel. 0539/417864), has a quality range of ceramics, lamps, mirrors, and housewares coated in colorful, shiny tadelakt. It's open daily 10am to 9pm. Calligrapher Sadik Haddari (tel. 0678/326084) has works on sale at his small shop at 6 rue Borj Ghouja. For fresh produce and a look at local life, visit Souk Ahfir alongside the medina walls on rue Ibn Batoutta.