Nightlife

Aspen's major performing arts venue is the 1889 Wheeler Opera House, 320 E. Hyman Ave., at Mill Street (tel. 970/920-5770 box office; www.wheeleroperahouse.com). Built at the peak of the mining boom by silver baron Jerome B. Wheeler, this meticulously restored stage hosts a year-round program of music, theater, dance, film, and lectures. The building itself is worth a visit, with brass wall sconces, crystal chandeliers, gold trim and stencils on the dark-blue walls, rich wood, red carpeting, and red velvet seats. The box office is open daily from 10am to 6pm (until 5pm Sun).

Among Aspen's top nightspots, Syzygy, 520 E. Hyman Ave. (tel. 970/925-3700), ranks high with young, high-energy types who live for the "Aspen scene." Bentley's at the Wheeler, 328 E. Hyman Ave. (tel. 970/920-2240), is an elegant English-style pub, good for the older crowd. The Lobby Lounge at the St. Regis, at the base of Aspen Mountain (tel. 970/920-3300), draws scores of après-skiers; and among my favorite Aspen bars is the quietly sophisticated and historic J-Bar, in the Hotel Jerome at Main and Mill streets (tel. 970/920-1000). The rich, hip, and wasted flock to 39 degrees, in the Sky Hotel at 709 E. Durant Ave. (tel. 970/925-6760), for outer-limits specialty cocktails and the unbeatable slopeside pool, which you can use even if you're just a bar customer and not a guest. For the opposite side of the spectrum and the best burger deal in town, hit the casual, funky, and unpretentious Cooper Street Pier, 508 E. Cooper Ave. (tel. 970/925-7758). Live rock, folk, and country concerts are the hallmark of Belly Up, 405 S. Galena St. (tel. 970/544-9800; www.bellyupaspen.com). Eric's Bar, 408 E. Hyman Ave. (tel. 970/920-6707), is four bars in one, with a cigar bar, pool hall, a Mexican eatery, and the bustling main bar. The Double Dog Pub, 303 E. Hopkins (tel. 970/544-5110), is a comfortable basement pub lined with pictures of patrons' dogs, dog art, and acoustic music on Tuesday nights.