Parks & Gardens

The lush National Gardens, between Leoforos Amalias and Irodou Attikou, south of Vas. Sofias, was once the royal family's palace garden. Now a public park, the area combines a park; gardens; meandering paths; many quaint bridges over ponds and small lakes favored by ducks, swans, and peacocks; and a small zoo with shade trees and benches. Look for one of the several cafes tucked away in the gardens; you can also picnic here or stop by the elegant Aigli cafe/restaurant. The large neoclassical exhibition/reception hall in the adjacent more orderly and wide gardens were built by the brothers Zappas and so are known as the Zappeion. The National Gardens are open daily from 7am to 10pm. Note: At night, it becomes a spot for prostitutes, gay cruising, and pickups, but by daytime it is a wonderful little oasis in the city center.

Mount Likavitos (Lycabettus) dominates the city's northeast. It is a favorite retreat for Athenians, and a great place from which to get a bird's-eye view of the city as it spreads before you all the way to the Saronic Gulf. Even when the smog is bad, sunsets can be spectacular here and the glittering city beckoning you from below is at its most seductive. A small Chapel of Ayios Yioryios (St. George) sits at the top. Catch a summer performance at the Likavitos Theater here. You can take the funicular (which leaves every 20 min. in summer) from the top of Ploutarchou (6€ with return), or you can walk up from Dexameni Square.

Pedion tou Areos (Plain of Mars) is Athens's largest park on busy Leoforos Alexandras. Large trees, benches, gardens, and meandering paths all offer escape from the bustling city; a long boulevard lined with statues of the heroes of the Greek War of Independence bisects the park. The park is currently receiving a 10-million€ face-lift that promises to be nothing short of stunning when completed. Near the park and across the busy avenue is the wonderful and little-visited Lofos tou Strefi (Strefis Hill), where a labyrinth of green paths lead you to the summit with spectacular vistas of the city and the Acropolis all the way to the Saronic Gulf.

In the city center is Fillopapou Hill (also known as Hill of the Muses), a wonderful landscaped park with cypresses, pine trees, indigenous flora, joggers, dog walkers, lovers, and some important archaeological finds. It features the perfect vantage point from which to snap that postcard-perfect picture of the Acropolis. Along the way uphill you will walk by ancient walls, a 16th-century church (Agios Dimitiros-St. Demetrios), and a cave dwelling thought to be Socrates's prison. The Hill of the Pnyx (the meeting place of the democratic assembly) also has breathtaking vistas of the Acropolis and beyond. Farther to the west, there is a third hill, Hill of the Nymphs, said to be the location of William Shakespeare's Midnight Summer's Dream.

Athens's Urban Beaches

A string of popular beaches stretches along the Saronic Gulf from Athens to Cape Sounion; nearly all of them have been awarded the E.U. Blue Flag for clear waters. The beaches are easily accessible by bus, tram, and taxi. The tram reaches Voula, from there you can continue to the farther-away beaches via bus or taxi. Tip: To shorten your tram ride from downtown to the coast by 20 minutes, hop on Metro line 1 and get off at Faliro. Across the street is the tram stop, right outside the Peace and Friendship Olympic Stadium Complex. From here you can just hop on the SEF tram line to Voula. For beaches farther away from Voula, you can take a bus or taxi from Glyfada Square. Long administered by the Greek National Tourism Organization, the beaches are now run by private companies and charge admission, ranging from 5.50€ to 20€ per person per day. Entrance rates are always higher on weekends and holidays. Athens's privatized beaches resemble stylish clubs. For the admission price you get a chair, umbrella, changing rooms, showers, and restrooms. Some have water parks, children's play areas, snack bars, lifeguards, beach volleyball and racket-ball areas -- a few even have guest rooms in quaint bungalows for those wishing to have a siesta. The first beach off the tram from Syntagma, Edem, is quite a good public beach, which means there is no fee even though there is a private beach section within the same beach, managed by the hotel Poseidon across the street, and a nice seaside taverna. Edem is Athens's most urban beach, but it is clean and free and, due to its proximity to downtown, very popular with tourists.

Some of the best beaches along the coast are:

Agios Kosmas (second Agios Kosmas tram stop). A little difficult to find, but worth it; it's a small, free, quiet beach, clean and well managed and perfect if you have little children.

Asteras Glyfada (www.asterascomplex.com). Take the tram to the Glyfada stop at "Palio Dimarheio," "Paralia," or "Plateia Katraki" and walk along the coast. Inside this complex is a clean and family-friendly beach (admission weekdays 6€; weekends 7.50€) with clean grounds, a snack bar, cafe, children's playground and watersport options.

Balux House (www.baluxcafe.com). This glass-fronted beach house (admission 15€) for all is a series of living rooms, with many intimate areas, a library, an indoor and outdoor playroom for children, TV sets with Xbox and PlayStation game consoles, table games, a pool table overlooking the sea, beanbags to curl up on and read a book, a restaurant cafe and lounge area, volleyball court, landscaped gardens, a wonderful swimming pool, and watersports. After the sun has set, the house morphs into a fun, louder but still casual lounge-bar-club. Also on-site are the wonderful modern taverna Akanthus and the Balux club.

Voula A (www.thalassea.gr). The tram stops right outside this beach (admission weekdays 5.50€, weekends 6.50€). Quiet, pretty, and clean, with a waterslide, ample space, and a snack bar, this beach is more for families seeking a quiet time, older folk, or for anyone looking to spend the day on a quiet, inexpensive, scene-free, and clean beach.

Voula B. Palm trees, a spacious beach, a cafe, self-service restaurant, sports facilities, and some great bungalows to rent out make Voula B an excellent urban beach (admission 5.50€). Take the tram to Asklipeio Voulas.

Astir Beach. Take the tram to Glyfada, then bus no. 114 or 116. This, the sceniest beach of all (admission 15€ on weekdays, weekends vary), is nestled in a sheltered bay. The beach is clean and pleasant with many amenities (shops, cafe, restaurant, and sport facilities) and even ruins -- a temple to Apollo.

Attica Vouliagmeni Beach. Take the tram to Glyfada, then bus no. 114 or 116. Set on an enormous stretch of sand on a beautiful coastline with playgrounds, tennis courts, basketball courts, all the usual beach amenities and a beautiful coastline, this is the best-value beach for your money (admission 5.50€).

Lake Vouliagmeni (tel. 210/896-2239). You can also swim in the springs here, which are open year-round daily 7am-7:30pm (admission 7€, children 4 and under free). Take the tram to Glyfada, then bus no. 114. The setting is strikingly beautiful (a huge cavelike rock) where the blue-green mineral water remains the same temperature year-round and is said to have many healing properties.

Varkiza Beach (tel. 210/897-2414). Take the tram to Glyfada, then bus no. 116, 125, or 171. Varkiza Beach (admission 12€) is one of the fanciest beaches with pristine waters and is a lot of fun for both adults and children with beach bars, a water park, volleyball and tennis courts, and private cabanas. Though the beach gets busy during the weekends, it can be delightfully quiet during the weekdays. On your way back downtown from the beach, linger around in Glyfada for a while before catching the tram to explore this popular neighborhood. Pedestrian Metaxa runs through central Glyfada alongside the tram line, and combined with its side streets offers excellent shopping options, lively cafes, and fine restaurants. Walking down Metaxa, check out Zisimopoulou street, with more upscale cafes than you could ever need, but ideal for a stop to linger at, chill, and take in the scene with a cool drink. Nearby is George's Steakhouse, 4-6 Konstantinoupoleos (tel. 210/894-2041), a popular and affordable taverna serving delicious fare since 1951.

Serene Moments -- Even though there are several cafes to enjoy a drink and/or a light snack by the surf, none is more scenic than Moorings, Marina Vouliagmenis (tel. 210/967-0659; www.moorings.gr). On the Vouliagmeni marina, Moorings has a delicious menu, but it's also the ideal location to enjoy a refreshing drink as you take in the serene surroundings. Off the beaten track, only in-the-know locals hang out here. Take a seat on the deck overlooking either the marina or the sea and enjoy. (Tram to Glyfada Square/Palio Dimarhio, and from there a 5-min. taxi ride to Vouliagmeni marina).