Parks & Gardens

The lush National Gardens, between Leoforos Amalias and Irodou Attikou, south of Vas. Sofias, was once the Royal Family's palace garden. Now a public park, the area combines a park, gardens, meandering paths, many quaint bridges over ponds and small lakes favored by ducks, swans, and peacocks and a small zoo with shade trees and benches. Thousands of new trees and shrubs were planted here before the summer 2004 Olympics and in 2006 and 2007 more than a thousand new trees were planted. Look for one of the several cafes tucked away in the gardens; you can also picnic here or stop by the elegant Aigli cafe/restaurant. The large neoclassical exhibition/reception hall in the adjacent more orderly and wide gardens (the Zappeion Gardens) were built by the brothers Zappas and so are known as the Zappeion. The National Gardens are open daily from 7am to 10pm. Note: At night, it becomes a spot for prostitutes, gay cruising, and pickups, but by daytime it is a wonderful little oasis in the city center.

Mount Likavitos (Lycabettus) dominates the city's northeast. It is a favorite retreat for Athenians, and a great place from which to get a bird's-eye view of the city as it spreads before you all the way to the Saronic Gulf. Even when the smog is bad, sunsets can be spectacular here and the glittering city beckoning you from below is at its most seductive. A small Chapel of Ayios Yioryios (St. George) sits at the top. Catch a summer performance at the Likavitos Theater here. You can take the funicular (which leaves every 20 min. in summer) from the top of Ploutarchou (2€/$2.60), or you can walk up from Dexameni Square using the route preferred by young lovers, the energetic, and all too many who abandon kittens, dump garbage, or use drugs.

Pedion tou Areos (Plain of Mars) is Athens's largest park on busy Leoforos Alexandras. Large trees, benches, gardens, and meandering paths all offer escape from the bustling city; a long boulevard lined with statues of the heroes of the Greek War of Independence bisects the park. Near the park and across the busy avenue is the wonderful and little visited Lofos tou Strefi (Strefis Hill) where a labyrinth of green paths lead you to the summit with spectacular vistas of the city and the Acropolis all the way to the Saronic Gulf.

In the city center is Fillopapou Hill (also known as Hill of the Muses), a wonderful landscaped park with cypresses, pine trees, indigenous flora, joggers, dog-walkers, lovers, and some important archaeological finds. It features the perfect vantage point from which to snap that postcard-perfect picture of the Acropolis. Along the way uphill you will walk by ancient walls, a 16th-century church (Agios Dimitiros-St. Demetrios), and a cave dwelling thought to be Socrates's prison. The Hill of the Pnyx (the meeting place of the democratic assembly) also has breathtaking vistas of the Acropolis and beyond. Farther to the west, there is a third hill, Hill of the Nymphs, said to be the location of William Shakespeare's Midnight Summer's Dream.

Athens's Urban Beaches

A string of popular beaches stretches along the Saronic Gulf from Athens to Cape Sounion; nearly all of them have been awarded the E.U. blue flag for clear waters. The beaches are easily accessible by bus, tram, and taxi. The tram reaches Glyfada, from there you can continue to the farther-away beaches via bus or taxi. Tip: To shorten your tram ride from downtown to the coast by 20 minutes, hop on Metro line 1 and get off at Faliro. Across the street is the tram stop, right outside the Peace and Friendship Olympic Stadium Complex. From here you can just hop on the SEF tram line to Glyfada. For beaches farther away from Glyfada, you can take a bus or taxi from Glyfada Square. Long administered by the Greek National Tourism Organization, the beaches are now run by private companies and charge admission, ranging from 4€ to 20€ ($5.20-$26) per person, per day. Entrance rates are always higher on weekends and holidays. Athens's privatized beaches resemble stylish clubs. For the admission price you get a chair, umbrella, changing rooms, showers, and restrooms. Some have water parks, children's play areas, snack bars, lifeguards, beach volleyball and racket-ball areas -- a few even have guest rooms in quaint bungalows for those wishing to have a siesta. The first beach off the tram from Syntagma, Edem, is quite a good public beach, which means there is no fee even though there is a private beach section within the same beach, managed by the hotel Poseidon across the street and a nice seaside taverna. Edem is Athens's most urban beach but it is clean and free and due to its proximity to downtown very popular with tourists.

Some of the best beaches along the coast are:

Agios Kosmas (second Agios Kosmas tram stop; weekdays: 5€ ($6.50), weekends: 8€/$10). A little difficult to find, but worth it, it's a small, quiet beach, clean and well-managed and perfect if you have little children. Asteria, take tram to either the Glyfada stop at "Palio Dimarheio" and walk along the coast or at the last stop in Glyfada on Ioanou Metaxas, walk across Plateia Kritis, cross Leoforos Poseidonos and take a right and walk to the entrance. Weekdays: 7€/($9); weekends: 10€/$13). A scene beach with huge landscaped gardens, a nightclub, several cafes, boutiques and shops, a playground for children, volleyball court, and a plethora of watersports options; this is one happening beach, ideal for upscale families and scenesters. Voula A, Thallaseo. (The tram has been extended from Glyfada and stops right outside this beach.) Weekdays: 5€/$6.50) Quiet, pretty, and clean, with a waterslide, ample space, and a snack bar. Next door are two upscale yet reasonably priced and delicious restaurants (one for meat lovers, the other for seafood lovers). This beach is more for families seeking a quiet time, older folk, or for anyone looking to spend the day on a quiet, inexpensive, scene-free, and clean beach. Voula B (Tram to Glyfada then bus no. A1, A2, or E1. 5€/$6.50). Palm trees, a spacious beach, a cafe, self-service restaurant, sports facilities and some great bungalows to rent out make Voula B an excellent urban beach. Astir Beach (Tram to Glyfada then bus no. 114 or 116). This, the "sceniest" beach of all has a 15€ ($20) entrance fee on weekdays (weekends vary). Nestled in a sheltered bay, the beach is clean and pleasant with many amenities (shops, cafe, restaurant, and sport facilities) and even ruins -- a Temple to Apollo. Attica Vouliagmeni Beach (Tram to Glyfada then bus no. 114 or 116; 5€/$6.50). Set on an enormous stretch of sand on a beautiful coastline with playgrounds, tennis courts, basketball courts, all the usual beach amenities and a beautiful coastline, this is the best-value beach for your money. You can also swim in the springs at Lake Vouliagmeni (open year-round; tel. 210/896-2239; 7am-7:30pm; admission: 6€/$7.80, children under 5 free). The setting is strikingly beautiful (a huge cave-like rock) where the blue-green mineral water remains the same temperature year-round and is said to have many healing properties. Varkiza Beach (Tram to Glyfada then bus no. 116, 125, or 171; tel. 210/897-2414; 12€/$16). Varkiza Beach is one of the fanciest beaches with pristine waters and a lot of fun for both adults and children with beach bars, a water park, volleyball and tennis courts, and private cabanas. Though the beach gets very busy during the weekends, it can be delightfully quiet during the weekdays. On your way back downtown from the beach, linger around in Glyfada for a while before catching the tram to explore this popular neighborhood. Pedestrian Metaxa runs through central Glyfada alongside the tram line and combined with its side streets offers excellent shopping options, lively cafes, and fine restaurants. Walking down Metaxa, check out Zisimopoulou street, with more upscale cafes than you could ever need, but ideal for a stop to linger at, chill, and take in the scene with a cool drink. Walk down the street and you will reach beautiful Kiprou street. At first glance you will think this street -- tree lined and full of handsomely restored old mansions -- is strictly residential but you will quickly realize the mansions now house beer gardens and restaurants in their candlelit courtyards and terraces. Amigos (52 Kiprou; tel. 210/898-3167) serves good Mexican food and excellent margaritas but it is Buffalo Bill's (14 Kiprou; tel. 210/894-3128) with its excellent Tex-Mex food (superb chili and T-bone steaks) that is one of the most popular restaurants in the area.

When your time in Glyfada is up, head back to Metaxa to catch the tram. Once again if you're heading back into the city center and want to shave off at least 20 minutes from the ride, hop on the SEF tram, get off at the last stop (Faliro -- Peace and Friendship Stadium) and hop on Metro line 1 (Kifissia).