The Club & Music Scene

Given the vicissitudes of Athens nightlife, your best bet here is to have a local friend; failing that, you have this guide and you can always ask someone at your hotel for a recommendation. The listings in the weekly Athinorama (Greek) or in publications such as the English-language Athens News, the Kathimerini insert in the Herald Tribune, and hotel handouts such as Best of Athens and Welcome to Athens, can be very helpful. If you ask a taxi driver, he's likely to take you to either his cousin's joint or the place that gives him drinks for bringing you.

If you head to a large club, you're likely to face a cover charge of at least 10€ to 20€, which will likely include a drink. Thereafter, each drink will probably cost over 10€. It's best to go only to clubs with or recommended by someone trustworthy who knows the scene or that has come recommended from reliable sources (such as this guide). In large clubs, don't sit at a table unless you want to purchase a bottle of alcohol (100€), whether you want it or not. If you hear music you simply must have, Metropolis in Omonia Square has a wide choice of CDs of Greek music.

Traditional Music -- Walk the streets of the Plaka on any night and you'll find plenty of tavernas offering pseudo-traditional live music. As noted, many are serious clip joints, where if you sit down and ask for a glass of water, you'll be charged 100€ for a bottle of scotch. At most of these places, there's a cover of 10€. We've had good reports on Taverna Mostrou, 22 Mnissikleos (tel. 210/324-2441), which is large, old, and best known for traditional Greek music and dancing. Shows begin around 11pm and can last until 2am. The cover of 30€ includes a fixed-menu supper. A la carte fare is available but expensive (as are drinks). Nearby, Palia Taverna Kritikou, 24 Mnissikleos (tel. 210/322-2809), is another lively open-air taverna with music and dancing.

Appealing tavernas offering low-key music include fashionable Daphne's, 4 Lysikratous (tel. 210/322-7971); Nefeli, 24 Panos (tel. 210/321-2475); Dioyenis, 4 Sellei (tel. 210/324-7933); Stamatopoulou, 26 Lissiou (tel. 210/322-8722); and longtime favorites Klimataria, 5 Klepsidrias (tel. 210/324-1809), and Xinos, 4 Agelou Geronta (tel. 210/322-1065).

Bars/Clubs

Greek nightlife has a reputation for just getting started when the rest of Europe has already gone to bed. It's true. The nightlife in Athens is very sophisticated and varied. It used to be that during the summer the coast stole the show with its large and luxurious waterfront clubs, but with the resurrection of Gazi, Psirri, and Thissio, Athenians now head to the coastal clubs mostly on weekends during the summer. Most will begin their night downtown and make their way to the coast later. Keep in mind that with the tram, reaching these clubs is easier than ever. Because it runs on a 24-hour schedule on weekends during the summer, you will have no problem getting back to the center inexpensively. Even though I recommend you visit at least one of these clubs, to avoid velvet ropes and lines, you can make a reservation for dinner (they have amazingly tasty menus) and you can dine by the sea before the party gets started and linger until the club heats up. Apart from a few waterfront choices I will list, visitors will find most places conveniently located in the center. Some of the best lounges/bars in the city these days are found in hotels. Don't forget to have a drink at the top-floor Galaxy bar at the Hilton hotel for an amazing city view you won't find anywhere else. For the best Acropolis view head to the Hera Hotel's Peacock Lounge; for the most happening scene visit the Frame Bar-Lounge at St. George Lycabettus Hotel, the Fresh Hotel's Air Lounge Bar, and Ochre & Brown lounge. Okay, let's get going.

Monastiraki -- (Metro: Monastiraki)

Gallery Café (cafe/bar), 33 Adrianou (tel. 210/324-9080). On busy Adrianou, Gallery Café is a delightful and edgy cafe serving breakfast and snacks throughout the day. At night, the lights dim and it morphs into an equally charming bar. You can enjoy your drink on the busy sidewalk as you watch the city go by, or sit inside and check out its various exhibitions and sometimes live shows. Inoteka (bar), 3 Plateia Avyssinias (tel. 210/324-6446). When electronica-loving hipsters bought this old restaurant, all they wanted was a cool place to play their music to an appreciative crowd in a funky space. They redid the space into a funky bar. During the summer, the candlelit tables spill out on the plateia -- a great place to linger at all night long.

Psirri -- (Metro: Monastiraki)

Candy Bar (club), 3 Agiou Eleousis (tel. 210/331-7801). Hang out at the bar and take in the hip and fun scene in this large club, where rotating guest DJs spin everything from house to rock and everything in between. (Cover: 15€; live bands Wed-Thurs.) Cubanita (restaurant/bar/club), 28 Karaiskaki (tel. 210/331-4605). Hands down one of the most fun nights to be had in the city, where Latin beats and excellent Cuban cuisine combine to make a great place to party until the early morning hours. On some nights there's live Cuban music. It may close in July and August. El Pecado (bar/restaurant/club), 11 Tournavitou (tel. 210/324-4049). "The Sin" came about from the unorthodox union of a medieval Spanish-style church and erotic murals inspired by Bible themes. Confused? Don't be. Follow the fun into this sinfully enjoyable venue. In summer it moves to Voula. (Cover 10€.) Soul Garden (bar/restaurant/club), 65 Evripidou (tel. 210/331-0907). Inside a restored house, you can have the best mojitos in this part of town and excellent Thai finger food in the beautiful candlelit, Chinese lantern-filled courtyard, or just chill out to the soundtrack inside and out. Unpretentious, stylish, and fun, the upstairs club opens late.

Thissio -- (Metro: Thissio)

Athinaion Politeia (cafe/bar/restaurant), 30 Apostolou Pavlou and 1 Akamanthos (tel. 210/341-3794). My favorite cafe in downtown Athens, this grand restored building (a grocery store in the 19th century) has the perfect location right on the Promenade, with uninterrupted views of the Acropolis and passersby. Space by Avli (cafe/bar/club), 14 Iraklidon. This charming daytime cafe slowly evolves into a bar/club over its three stylish floors with a mostly soul and jazz soundtrack. Stavlos (multifunctional urban coolness), 10 Iraklidon (tel. 210/346-7206). Off the Archaeological Promenade on pedestrian Iraklidon Street, Stavlos was the royal stables in the 1880s. Now it is a cafe during the day with an Italian restaurant and outdoor seating in either the terrace, the tree-lined courtyard, or on the sidewalk. Good music and a laid-back pace guarantee a good time day and night when it turns into a bar/club.

Gazi -- (Metro: Kerameikos)

And here we are: nightlife central. Trying to pick a place here is tricky because most of the bars and clubs in Gazi are good. For starters, take a leisurely stroll to scope out the scene. Walk down Persefonis Street and Triptopolemou on either direction: The Kerameikos Metro station is a large landscaped plateia that covers an entire city block and is surrounded on either side by extremely popular bars. Once the bars reach full capacity, patrons head to the street and the plateia, drinks in hand.

Bios (multipurpose venue), 84 Pireos (tel. 210/342-5335). There is always something cool going on in this art-space/cafe/bar/club, from avant-garde performances to exhibitions and foreign art film showings. A basement nightclub sways to a mostly rock soundtrack. Brothel (bar/restaurant), 33 Orfeos and Dekeleion (tel. 210/347-0505). Dark, stylish, and welcoming, Brothel has a great soundtrack, smooth cocktails, and tasty Mediterranean dishes (25€-35€), plus the ambience and dark charm of an old-world cabaret. 45 degrees (bar/club), 18 Iakhou, corner of Voutadhon (tel. 210/347-2729). An excellent place to begin the night, this rock bar/club has a stunning rooftop terrace overlooking Gazi and the Acropolis in the distance. Gazaki (bar), 31 Triptopolemou (tel. 210/346-0901). The oldest bar in Gazi remains one of the best, having recently added a very nice roof terrace. The music is always excellent, as are the drinks. The no-pretense mixed crowd makes this a sure bet for any night of the week. Across from Gazaki, you will find Dirty Ginger (bar/restaurant), 46 Triptopolemou (tel. 210/342-3809). With table seating right on one of the most active streets in the city, a beautiful palm tree-lined garden, and excellent Mediterranean cuisine and pumping soundtrack, this mixed-crowd bar/restaurant is fun for everyone that visits. You are guaranteed to return. Gazarte (bar/restaurant/exhibition-conference center), 32-34 Voutadon (tel. 210/346-0347). Three-level urban chic space with various weekly art exhibitions, a very good restaurant, and a lovely bar on the roof terrace with sweeping views. Hoxton (bar), 42 Voutadon (tel. 210/341-3395). Beautiful, edgy, arty, and hip with a seriously addictive rock/new wave soundtrack, Hoxton is the place to be night after night. Across the park from Hoxton, is Mad, 53 Persefonis (tel. 210/346-2027). An ideal late-night location for indie rock. Tapas Bar, 44 Triptopolemou (tel. 210/347-1844). This is one of the most interesting bars in Gazi at press time; the space is rather tiny and always packed. The action begins in the bar with light snacks and a rather jazzy soundtrack that segues into Latin beats as patrons down the margaritas, mojitos, and rum-based drinks that ensure an amazing time. Nipiagogio (Kindergarten; bar/club), Elasidon and 8 Kleanthous (tel. 210/345-8534). What was once an elementary school has been turned into one of the hottest bar/clubs in the city. On Saturday nights the former classrooms and playground stay hot until 6am! Villa Mercedes (club), Andronikou and 11 Jafferi (tel. 210/342-3606). This impressive nightclub with many rooms and an internal courtyard (plus a restaurant) is always fun to check out and has no cover charge. Tip: Any night you're in Gazi, stop by Mamacas bar/lounge (inside the popular modern tavern) and have a drink at the bar to check out the scene. Something interesting is always going on here.

Zappeio/Syntagma -- (Metro: Syntagma)

Inside the Aigli complex you will find the Lallabai (lounge/club), 9 Zappeion (tel. 210/336-9340). Tastefully decorated, this is a great place to chill out and soak up the serene garden surroundings or the boisterous scene as the lounge turns into a club. (Cover 10€.) On the Road (bar/club), 1 Adrittou (tel. 210/347-8716). From as far back as I can remember I always wanted to visit this club. Driving with my dad,s I would always wonder how they ever built a bar right in the middle of the avenue. I'm still not sure about that, but great music and decor and a wonderfully rowdy atmosphere, plus the bizarre location, make it an absolute must. Plus, it is refreshingly attitude-free. Right across the street is another great club named Exo (Outdoors), 1 Markou Mousourou (tel. 210/923-7109). These days it's a club/restaurant with outdoor seating during summer with amazing views of the city -- including the Acropolis and Lycabettus. (Cover 15€.) Kalua (bar/club), 3 Amerikis (tel. 210/360-8304). Near Syntagma Square, this bar packs partiers into one of the city's most outrageously fun spots.

Exarheia -- (Metro: Panepistimio)

Circus (bar), 11 Navarinou (tel. 210/361-5255). On the border of Kolonaki and Exarheia, where posh meets bohemian, Circus manages to be a great time for all. Decadence (bar/club), 69 Voulgaroktonou and 2 Poliherias, Stroffi Lofos (tel. 210/882-7045). This landmark Athenian rock club is housed in a beautiful neoclassical mansion that used to belong to royalty. It's popular with all ages and touring bands that stop in after their shows. Resital (club), 64 Eressou (tel. 210/380-5556). The ivy-covered mansion hosts live performances by Greek and foreign rock bands; it's a smart choice for listening to music or hanging out on the terrace. Gagarin 205 (live rock venue), 205 Liossion (tel. 210/854-7601; www.gagarin205.gr). Catch a rock concert in this large space in the winter or its other space on the coast in the summer. Check its website to find out who is performing.

Kolonaki/Ambelokipi -- (Metro for Kolonaki: Syntagma or Evaggelismos; for Ambelokipi: Ambelokipi)

Balthazar (bar/restaurant), 27 Tsoha and Soutsou, Ambelokipi (tel. 210/644-1215). Having been a favorite Athenian destination since the '80s, this beautiful mansion also has a fine restaurant, but it is the bar in the mansion's beautiful lantern-lit courtyard that is the favorite destination. Show up late (after midnight) for drinks in this incredibly romantic location with the pretty people. Baraonda (restaurant/bar/club), 43 Tsoha, Ambelokipi (tel. 210/644-4308). An atmospheric establishment, with red velvet curtains, candles, stone and tiled walls, chandeliers, two bars, a VIP section, and a summer courtyard to complement the energetic music, the fun-loving clientele, and the exceptional Mediterranean cuisine which tends to be on the expensive side (45€-50€). Memphis (bar/club), 5 Vendiri, Ilisia (behind the Hilton hotel; tel. 210/722-4104). Memphis has been popular for decades for its indie rock sounds. Mike's Irish Bar (Irish bar), 6 Sinopis, Ambelokipi (tel. 210/777-6797). Insanely popular Irish pub that's packed with ex-patriots longing for a nonglamorous bar setting. Right by the Athens Tower, this bar has become more expensive lately with certain nights (such as Karaoke Night) charging a cover, but still it's a lot of fun. Mommy (bar/restaurant), 4 Delfon, Kolonaki (tel. 210/361-9682). One of the most popular places of the moment, this impressive space -- with a smart decor, contemporary art exhibitions, excellent Mediterranean menu, and great drinks -- gets pumping after midnight when the fun spills out to its summer terrace. Rock n' Roll (bar/restaurant/club), 6 Loukianou and Ypsilantou (tel. 210/721-7127). A legendary Kolonaki haunt year after year (it's closed during the summer). On the upper level the restaurant has incredible views, whereas on the lower floor you can enjoy a drink in one of the most stylish bars in town.

Seaside Clubs

Akrotiri Club Restaurant (club/restaurant), Leof Vas Georgiou B5, Agios Kosmas (tel. 210/985-9147; www.akrotirilounge.gr; tram to Elliniko stop). This massive (capacity 3,000), ridiculously beautiful and stylish open-air club next to the beach, with an elegant tropical decor, a huge pool, dance floors, deck seating by the beach, sea views, excellent (but pricey) Med fusion cuisine (50€-70€) has been popular since the '80s and shows no signs of stopping. (Cover, including a drink, 11pm-5am Mon-Thurs and Sun 10€, Fri-Sat 15€.) El Pecado Isla (cafe/bar/restaurant/club), 14 Karamanli, Voula (tel. 210/895-9645). Take the Tram to Plateia Glyfadas, then bus no. A2 or a taxi. The summer version of everyone's favorite downtown "sin" moves to this beautiful seafront mansion for the summer months with a huge terrace right above the waves. During the day it is a trendy cafe, then slowly morphs into a lounge/restaurant until its final reincarnation as a pumping club. Mao Summer (club/restaurant), Diadohou Pavlou, Glyfada (tel. 210/894-4048). Tram to Paralia Glyfadas. It's a massive open-air club (with a capacity of 5,000), impeccably decorated and featuring a large swimming pool surrounded by recliners and sofas. On Sundays there's a pool party. (Cover including drink 10€ weeknights, 15€ Fri-Sat.) If you only visit one summer coastal club/restaurant, it should be romantic Island, Limanakia Vouliagmenis (tel. 210/965-3563; www.islandclubrestaurant.gr). Take the tram to Plateia Glyfadas and from there take a taxi or bus no. 114 and get off at Limanakia. It is out of the way but worth the trip. Set on a breathtaking cliff-top with sea vistas (you'll think you are at some far away island), excellent finger food, sushi, and Mediterranean dishes, this is the quintessential Athenian summer nightspot. Things get louder after 1am. Show up early or make dinner reservations -- prices are moderate to expensive (20€-70€) -- or you can enjoy tasty tapas at the tapas bar. The door policy is annoying -- if you arrive on foot you won't get in unless it's very early (10pm) or you have dinner reservations. (No cover with dinner reservations, 13€ without)

Rembetika & Bouzoukia

Visitors interested in authentic rembetika (music of the urban poor and dispossessed) and bouzoukia (traditional and pop music featuring the bouzouki, a kind of guitar, today almost always loudly amplified) should consult their hotel concierge or check the listings in Athinorama, the weekly Hellenic Times, or Kathimerini (the daily insert in the International Herald Tribune). Another good place to ask is at the shop of the Museum of Popular Greek Musical Instruments. Rembetika performances usually don't start until nearly midnight, and though there's rarely a cover, drinks can cost as much as 20€. Many clubs close during the summer.

One of the more central places for rembetika is Stoa Athanaton, 19 Sofokleous, in the Central Meat Market (tel. 210/321-4362), which has been serving good food and live music since 1930 from 3 to 7:30pm and after 11pm. Taximi, 29 Isavron, Exarchia (tel. 210/363-9919), is consistently popular. Drinks cost 12€. It's closed Sunday and Monday and during July and August. The downscale, smoke-filled Rebetiki Istoria, in a neoclassical building at 181 Ippokratous (tel. 210/642-4967), features old-style rembetika, played to a mixed crowd of older regulars and younger students and intellectuals. The music usually starts at 11pm, but arrive earlier to get a seat. The legendary Maryo I Thessaloniki (Maryo from Thessaloniki), described as the Bessie Smith of Greece, sometimes sings rembetika at Perivoli t'Ouranou, 19 Lysikratous (tel. 210/323-5517 or 210/322-2048), in Plaka. Expect to pay at least 10€ per drink in these places, most of which have a cover from 20€ -- except Rembetiki Istoria, which due to its student clientele is more affordable than most such places.

Jazz

A number of clubs and cafes specialize in jazz, but they also offer everything from Indian sitar music to rock to punk. The popular -- and very well thought of -- Half Note Jazz Club, 17 Trivonianou, Mets (tel. 210/921-3310; www.halfnote.gr), schedules performers who play everything from medieval music to jazz; set times vary from 8 to 11pm and later. (Cover 30€ with 1 drink.) In Gazi, at the House of Art, 48 Konstantinoupoleos (tel. 210/461-1535; www.art-house-athens.gr; Metro: Kerameikos), you can often hear jazz from 11pm. (Cover depends on event.) Parafono Jazz Club, 1 S. Kirinis St. and 130a Asklipiou(tel. 210/644-6512; www.parafono.gr), has been packing them in since 1981, 7 nights a week, with performances by new bands as well as known artists. (Cover is 10€.) Cabaret Voltaire, 30 Marathonos, Metaxourgeio (tel. 210/522-7046; Metro: Metaxourgeio), has live jazz every Sunday. If you're visiting in late May, be sure to check out the European Jazz Festival at the Technopolis, 100 Pireos (tel. 210/346-0981; www.culture.gr; Metro: Kerameikos). Also check out what's happening at the Pallas Theater, 5 Voukourestiou (tel. 210/321-3100; www.ticketshop.gr; Metro: Syntagma), which hosts frequent jazz concerts.