The Club & Music Scene

Given the vicissitudes of Athens nightlife, your best bet here is to have a local friend; failing that, you have this guide and you can always ask someone at your hotel for a recommendation. The listings in the weekly Athinorama (Greek) or in publications such as the English-language Athens News, the Kathimerini insert in the Herald Tribune, and hotel handouts such as Best of Athens and Welcome to Athens, can be very helpful. If you ask a taxi driver, he's likely to take you to either his cousin's joint or the place that gives him drinks for bringing you.

If you head to a large club, you're likely to face a cover charge of at least 10€ to 20€ ($13-$26). Thereafter, each drink will probably cost over 10€ ($13). It's best to go only to clubs with or recommended by someone trustworthy who knows the scene or that have come recommended from reliable sources (such as this guide). In large clubs, don't sit at a table unless you want to purchase a bottle of alcohol (100€/$130), whether you want it or not. If you hear music you simply must have, Metropolis (tel. 210/380-8549) in Omonia Square has a wide choice of CDs and tapes of Greek music.

Traditional Music

Walk the streets of the Plaka on any night and you'll find plenty of tavernas offering pseudo-traditional live music. As noted, many are serious clip joints, where if you sit down and ask for a glass of water, you'll be charged 100€ ($130) for a bottle of scotch. At most of these places, there's a cover of 10€ ($13). We've had good reports on Taverna Mostrou, 22 Mnissikleos (tel. 210/324-2441), which is large, old, and best known for traditional Greek music and dancing. Shows begin around 11pm and can last until 2am. The cover of 30€ ($39) includes a fixed-menu supper. A la carte fare is available but expensive (as are drinks). Nearby, Palia Taverna Kritikou, 24 Mnissikleos (tel. 210/322-2809), is another lively open-air taverna with music and dancing.

Appealing tavernas offering low-key music include fashionable Daphne's, 4 Lysikratous (tel. 210/322-7971); Nefeli, 24 Panos (tel. 210/321-2475); Dioyenis, 4 Sellei (Shelley; tel. 210/324-7933); Stamatopoulou, 26 Lissiou (tel. 210/322-8722); and longtime favorites Klimataria, 5 Klepsidrias (tel. 210/324-1809), and Xinos, 4 Agelou Geronta (tel. 210/322-1065).

Bars/Clubs

Greek nightlife has a reputation for just getting started when the rest of Europe has already gone to bed. It's true. The nightlife in Athens is very sophisticated and varied. It used to be that during the summer the coast stole the show with its large and luxurious waterfront clubs but with the resurrection of Gazi, Psiri, and Thisio, Athenians now head to the coastal clubs mostly on weekends during the summer. Most will begin their night downtown and make their way to the coast later. Keep in mind that with the tram, reaching these clubs is easier than ever. Because it runs on a 24-hour schedule on weekends during the summer, you will have no problem getting back to the center inexpensively. Even though I recommend you visit at least one of these clubs, to avoid velvet ropes and lines, you can make a reservation for dinner (they have amazingly tasty menus) and you can dine by the sea before the party gets started and linger until the club heats up. Apart from a few waterfront choices I will list, visitors will find most places conveniently located in the center. Some of the best lounges/bars in the city these days are found in hotels. Don't forget to have a drink at the top-floor Galaxy bar at the Hilton hotel for an amazing city view you won't find anywhere else. For the best Acropolis view head to the Hera Hotel's Peacock Lounge; for the most happening scene visit the Frame Bar-Lounge at St. George Lycabettus Hotel, the Fresh Hotel's Air Lounge Bar, and Ochre & Brown lounge. Okay, let's get going.

Monastiraki (Metro: Monastiraki)

Gallery Café (cafe/bar), 33 Adrianou (tel. 210/324-9080). On busy Adrianou, Gallery Café is a delightful and edgy cafe serving breakfast and snacks throughout the day. At night, the lights dim and it morphs into an equally charming bar. You can enjoy your drink on the busy sidewalk as you watch the city go by or sit inside and check out its various exhibitions and sometimes live shows. Inoteka (bar), 3 Plateia Avyssinias (tel. 210/324-6446). When electronica-loving hipsters bought this old restaurant all they wanted was a cool place to play their music to an appreciative crowd in a funky space. They redid the space into a funky bar. During the summer, the candlelit tables spill out on the plateia -- a great place to linger at all night long.

Psirri (Metro: Monastiraki)

Bar Guru Bar (restaurant/bar/club), 10 Plateia Theatrou, tel. 210/324-6530. Closed mid-July to mid-August. Apart from being a fine Thai restaurant, Guru also offers an infectious good time as a bar/club. Upstairs hosts live jazz and downstairs is reserved for funky dance hits. Hamam (cafe/bar), Plateia Agion Anrgiron. A cafe for most of the day, this former hamam (equipped with hubble-bubble pipes) turns to a chill bar at night with outdoor and rooftop seating. Candy Bar/Danze (club), 11 Aristofanous, tel. 210/331-7105. Hang out at the bar and take in the hip and fun scene; then move upstairs to the popular club Danza where rotating guest DJs spin everything from house to rock and everything in between. Corto Maltese (club), 33 Karaiskaki (open only in winter) Named after an obscure cult comic book character, this is a great club with mostly alternative or indie rock music. Some live performances also. Admission is 6€ ($7.80) but includes a drink. Cubanita (restaurant/bar/club), 28 Karaiskaki, tel. 210/331-4605. May close in July and August. Hands down one of the most fun nights to be had in the city where Latin beats and excellent Cuban cuisine combine to make a great place to party until the early morning hours. On some nights there's live Cuban music. Soul Garden (bar/restaurant/club), 65 Evripidou, tel. 210/331-0907. Inside a restored house, you can have the best Mojitos in this part of town and excellent Thai finger food in the beautiful candlelit, Chinese lantern-filled courtyard or just chill out to the soundtrack inside and out. Unpretentious, stylish, and fun, the upstairs club opens late.

Thissio (Metro: Thissio)

Athinaion Politeia (cafe/bar/restaurant), 30 Apostolou Pavlou and 1 Akamanthos, tel. 210/341-3794. My favorite cafe in Athens, this grand restored building (once a grocery store in 19th-c. Athens) has the perfect location right on the Promenade with uninterrupted views of the Acropolis and passersby. Space by Avli (cafe/bar/club), 14 Iraklidon. This charming daytime cafe slowly evolves into a bar/club over its three stylish floors with a mostly soul and jazz soundtrack. Stavlos (multi-functional urban coolness), 10 Iraklidon, tel. 210/346-7206. Off the Archaeological Promenade on pedestrian Iraklidon Street, Stavlos was the royal stables in the 1880s. Now it is a cafe during the day with an Italian restaurant, outdoor seating in either the terrace, the tree-lined courtyard or on the sidewalk. Good music and a laid-back pace guarantee a good time day and night when it turns into a bar/club.

Gazi (Metro: Kerameikos)

And here we are: nightlife central. Trying to pick a place here is tricky because most of the bars and clubs in Gazi are good. For starters, take a leisurely stroll to scope out the scene. Walk down Persefonis Street and Triptopolemou on either direction: The Kerameikos Metro station is a large landscaped plateia that covers an entire city block and is surrounded on either side by extremely popular bars. Once the bars reach full capacity, patrons head to the street and the plateia, drinks in hand. Bios (multi-purpose venue), 84 Pireos, tel. 210/342-5335. There is always something cool going on in this art-space/cafe/bar/club, from avant-garde performances to exhibitions and foreign art film showings. A basement nightclub sways to a mostly rock soundtrack. Brothel (bar/restaurant), 33 Orfeos and Dekeleion, tel. 210/347-0505. Dark, stylish, and welcoming, Brothel has a great soundtrack, smooth cocktails and tasty Mediterranean dishes (25€-35€/$33-$46) plus the ambience and dark charm of an old-world cabaret. 45 degrees (bar/club), 18 Iakhou, corner Voutadhon tel. 210/347-2729. An excellent place to begin the night, this rock bar/club has a stunning rooftop terrace overlooking Gazi and the Acropolis in the distance. Gazaki (bar), 31 Triptopolemou, tel. 210/346-0901. The oldest bar in Gazi remains one of the best, having recently added a very nice roof terrace. The music is always excellent as are the drinks. The no-pretense mixed-crowd makes this a sure bet for any night of the week. Across from Gazaki, you will find Tapas Bar and Dirty-Ginger (bar/restaurant), 46 Triptopolemou, tel. 210/342-3809. With table seating right on one of the most active streets in the city, a beautiful palm tree-lined garden, and excellent Mediterranean cuisine and pumping soundtrack, this mixed-crowd bar/restaurant is fun for everyone that visits. You are guaranteed to return. Gazarte (bar/restaurant/exhibition-conference center), 32-34 Voutadon, tel. 210/346-0347. Three-level urban chic space with various weekly art exhibitions, a very good restaurant, and a lovely bar on the roof terrace with sweeping views. Hoxton (bar), 42 Voutadon, tel. 210/341-3395. Beautiful, edgy, arty, and hip with a seriously addictive rock/new wave soundtrack, Hoxton is the place to be night after night. (Across the park from Hoxton, is Mad, 53 Persefonis, tel. 210/346-2027; an ideal late-night location for indie rock.) Tapas Bar, 44 Triptopolemou, tel. 210/347-1844, is one of the most interesting bars in Gazi at press time; the space is rather tiny and always packed. The action begins in the bar with light snacks and a rather jazzy soundtrack that segues into Latin beats as patrons down the margaritas, mojitos, and rum-based drinks that ensure an amazing time. Nipiagogio (Kindergarten; bar/club), Elasidon and 8 Kleanthous, tel. 210/345-8534. What was once an elementary school has been turned into one of the hottest bar/clubs in the city. On Saturday nights the former classrooms and playground stay hot until 6am! Villa Milioni (club), Andronikou and 11 Jafferi, tel. 210/342-3606. This impressive nightclub with many rooms and an internal courtyard (plus a restaurant) is always fun to check out and has no cover charge. Tip: Any night you're in Gazi, stop by Mamacas bar/lounge (inside the popular modern taverna) and have a drink at the bar to check out the scene. Something interesting is always going on here.

Zappeio (Metro: Syntagma)

Inside the Aigli complex you will find the Lallabai (lounge/club), 9 Zappeion, tel. 210/336-9340. Tastefully decorated, this is a great place to chill out and soak up the serene garden surroundings or the boisterous scene as the lounge turns into a club. On the Road (bar/club), 1 Adrittou, tel. 210/347-8716. From as far back as I can remember I had always wanted to visit this club. Driving with my dad I would always wonder how they ever build a bar right in the middle of the avenue. Great music and decor and a wonderfully rowdy atmosphere plus the bizarre location, make this an absolute must. Plus, it is refreshingly attitude free. Right across the street is another great club named Exo (Outdoors), 1 Markou Mousourou, tel. 210/923-7109. Admission is 15€ ($20). These days it's a club/restaurant with outdoor seating during summer with amazing views of the city -- including the Acropolis and Lycabettus.

Omonia/Metaxourgeio (For Omonia, Metro to: Omonia; for Metaxourgeio: Metaxourgeio)

Bacaro (cafe/bar/restaurant/gallery), 1 Sofokleous and 11 Aristidou, tel. 210/321-1882. Across from the Athens Stock Exchange, this is one of the hippest, not to mention most stylish places in the middle of the city. Delicious Italian fare (for those choosing to have dinner here), cool art exhibitions, excellent decor, and a popular bar show off modern Athens at its best. Cabaret Voltaire (bar/club), 30 Marathonos, Metaxourgeio, tel. 210/522-7046. In formerly run-down Metaxourgeio, the cabaret has a cool scene, industrial-to-arts surroundings, well-known DJs, organic wine, art exhibitions, and live jazz every Sunday.

Exarheia (Metro: Omonia/Panepistimio)

Decadence (bar/club), 69 Voulgaroktonou and 2 Poliherias, Stroffi Lofos, tel. 210/882-7045. Landmark Athenian rock club housed in a beautiful neoclassical mansion that used to belong to royalty. It's popular with all ages and touring bands that stop in after their shows. This year it joined forces with Kipos and they co-sponsor many events and theme nights. Kipos (bar/cafe/club), 87 Emmanouil Benaki, tel. 210/3813685. Housed in an elegant old mansion with many rooms, each one of a different musical genre. Live shows and special events weekly. Mo Better (club), 32 Koletti, tel. 210/381-2981. Admission of 6€ ($8) includes drink. This wildly popular club housed in the first floor of a neoclassical building has DJs spinning everything from house to punk rock. Resital (club), 64 Eressou, tel. 210/380-5556. This place has been around forever (I hear it was the place to be on the Grand Opening Day of the Acropolis). The ivy-covered mansion hosts live performances by Greek and foreign rock bands; it's a smart choice for listening to music or hanging out on the terrace. Texas (bar), 56 Ippokratous, tel. 697/280-2171. This retro scene of a time gone by but not forgotten by everyone hosts heavy metal, goth and glam rock. Gagarin 205 (live rock venue), 205 Liossion, tel. 210/854-7601; www.gagarin205.gr. Catch a rock concert in this large space in the winter or its other space on the coast in the summer. Check its website to find out who is performing.

Kolonaki/Ambelokipi (Metro for Kolonaki: Syntagma or Evaggelismos; for Ambelokipi: Megaro Mousikis or Ambelokipi)

Balthazar (bar/restaurant), 27 Tsoha and Soutsou, Ambelokipi, tel. 210/644-1215. Having been a favorite Athenian destination since the '80s, this beautiful mansion also has a fine restaurant, but it is the bar in the mansion's beautiful lantern-lit courtyard that is the favorite destination. Show up late (after midnight) for drinks in this incredibly romantic location with the pretty people. Baraonda (restaurant/bar/club), 43 Tsoha, Ambelokipi, tel. 210/644-4308. An atmospheric establishment with red velvet curtains, candles, stone and tiled walls, chandeliers, two bars, a VIP section, and a summer courtyard complement the energetic music, the fun-loving clientele, and the exceptional Mediterranean cuisine which tends to be on the expensive side (45€-50€/$59-$65). Memphis (bar/club), 5 Vendiri, Ilisia (behind the Hilton hotel), tel. 210/722-4104. Memphis has been popular for decades for its Indie rock sounds. Mike's Irish Bar (Irish bar), 6 Sinopis, Ambelokipi, tel. 210/777-6797. Insanely popular Irish pub that's packed with ex-patriots longing for a non-glamorous bar setting. Right by the Athens Tower, this bar has gotten more expensive lately with certain nights (such as karaoke night) having an admission fee, but still it's a lot of fun. Mommy (bar/restaurant), 4 Delfon, Kolonaki, tel. 210/361-9682. One of the most popular places of the moment, this impressive space with a smart decor, contemporary art exhibitions, excellent Mediterranean menu, and great drinks, gets pumping after midnight when the fun spills out to its summer terrace. Rock n' Roll (bar/restaurant/club), 6 Loukianou and Ypsilantou, tel. 210/721-7127. A legendary Kolonaki haunt year after year (it's closed during the summer). On the upper level the restaurant has incredible views whereas on the lower floor you can enjoy a drink in one of the most stylish bars in town.

Seaside Clubs

Akrotiri Club Restaurant (club/restaurant), Leof Vas Georgiou B5, Agios Kosmas (tram to Elliniko stop), tel. 210/985-9147; www.akrotirilounge.gr. Admission is from 11pm to 5am Monday through Thursday and Sunday 10€ ($13) and includes a drink. Friday and Saturday is 15€ ($20) including a drink. This massive (capacity 3,000), ridiculously beautiful and stylish open-air club next to the beach, with an elegant tropical decor, a huge pool, dance floors, deck seating by the beach, sea views, excellent (but pricey) Med fusion cuisine (50€-70€/$65-$91) has been popular since the '80s and shows no signs of stopping.

Bo (cafe/bar/restaurant/club), 14 Karamanli, Voula, tel. 210/895-9645. Open daily 11am to 4am. Take the Tram to Glyfada then bus no. A2 from Plateia Glyfadas. This longtime Athenian favorite is housed in a beautiful seafront mansion with a huge terrace right above the waves. During the day it is a trendy cafe then slowly morphs into a lounge/restaurant until its final reincarnation as a pumping club.

Mao Summer (club/restaurant), Diadohou Pavlou, Glyfada, tel. 210/894-4048. Tram to Paralia Glyfadas. Admission is 10€ ($13) weeknights but includes a drink; 15€ ($20) Friday and Saturday includes a drink. It's a massive open-air club (with a capacity of 5,000), impeccably decorated and featuring a large swimming pool surrounded by recliners and sofas. On Sundays there's a pool party.

If you only visit one summer coastal club/restaurant, romantic Island should be it. Limanakia Vouliagmenis, tel. 210/965-3563. Take the tram to Glyfada (Paleio Dimarheio) and from there take a taxi or bus no. 114 and get off at Limanakia. It is out-of-the-way but worth the trip. Set on a breathtaking cliff-top with sea vistas, excellent finger food, sushi, and Mediterranean dishes, this is the quintessential Athenian summer nightspot. Things get louder after 1am. Show up early or make dinner reservations -- prices are moderate (20€-50€/$26-$68). No admission fee but annoying door policy -- if you arrive on foot you won't get in unless it's very early (10pm) or you have dinner reservations.

Rembetika & Bouzoukia

Visitors interested in authentic rembetika (music of the urban poor and dispossessed) and bouzoukia (traditional and pop music featuring the bouzouki, a kind of guitar, today almost always loudly amplified) should consult their hotel concierge or check the listings in Athinorama, the weekly Hellenic Times, or Kathimerini (the daily insert in the International Herald Tribune). Another good place to ask is at the shop of the Museum of Popular Greek Musical Instruments. Rembetika performances usually don't start until nearly midnight, and though there's rarely a cover, drinks can cost as much as 20€ ($26). Many clubs close during the summer.

One of the more central places for rembetika is Stoa Athanaton, 19 Sofokleous, in the Central Meat Market (tel. 210/321-4362), which serves good food and has live music from 3 to 6pm and after midnight. It's closed Sunday. Taximi, 29 Isavron, Exarchia (tel. 210/363-9919), is consistently popular. Drinks cost 12€ ($16). It's closed Sunday and during July and August. Open Wednesday through Monday, Frangosyriani, 57 Arachovis, Exarchia (tel. 210/360-0693), specializes in the music of rembetika legend Markos Vamvakaris. The downscale, smoke-filled Rebetiki Istoria, in a neoclassical building at 181 Ippokratous (tel. 210/642-4967), features old-style rembetika, played to a mixed crowd of older regulars and younger students and intellectuals. The music usually starts at 11pm, but arrive earlier to get a seat. The legendary Maryo I Thessaloniki (Maryo from Thessaloniki), described as the Bessie Smith of Greece, sometimes sings rembetika at Perivoli t'Ouranou, 19 Lysikratous (tel. 210/323-5517 or 210/322-2048), in Plaka. Expect to pay at least 10€ ($13) per drink in these places, most of which have a cover from 25€ ($33).

Jazz

A number of clubs and cafes specialize in jazz, but they also offer everything from Indian sitar music to rock to punk. The very popular -- and very well-thought of -- Half Note Jazz Club, 17 Trivonianou, Mets (tel. 210/921-3310), schedules performers who play everything from medieval music to jazz; set times vary from 8 to 11pm and later. Café Asante, 78 Damareos (tel. 210/756-0102), in Pangrati, has music most nights from 11pm. At the House of Art, Sahtouri and 4 Sari (tel. 210/321-7678), and at Pinakothiki, 5 Ayias Theklas (tel. 210/324-7741), both in newly fashionable Psirri, you can often hear jazz from 11pm. You'll pay the same here as at the rembetika clubs -- from 10€ ($13) per drink and a cover of at least 25€ ($33).