The Gay & Lesbian Scene

You will not find a shortage of gay bars, cafes, and clubs in Athens, even though the gay male venues by far outnumber the lesbian ones. The scene used to be in Makrigianni and Kolonaki, but Gazi has taken over here as well, with the hippest gay or gay-friendly establishments within walking distance from one another. The legendary gay bars and clubs of the past remain in Makrigianni and are still popular, but the real scene is in Gazi. The weekly publications Athinorama and Time Out often list gay bars, discos, and special events in the nightlife section. Get-togethers are sometimes advertised in the English-language press, such as the weekly Athens News. You can also look for the Greek publication Deon Magazine (tel. 210/953-6479; www.deon.gr) or surf the Web at www.gaygreece.gr. Gay Travel Greece, at 377 Syngrou Ave. in central Athens (tel. 210/948-4385), specializes, as its name proclaims, in travel for gay and lesbian visitors.

Gay and lesbian travelers will not encounter difficulties at any Athenian hotel, but one with a largely gay and lesbian clientele is 41-room Hotel Rio Athens (www.hotel-rio.gr), at 13 Odysseos off Karaiskaki Square in a nicely restored neoclassical building. Below are some selections we have made of the city's more fun gay bars/clubs. For a complete listing of all the gay fun the metropolis has to offer, check out www.athensinfoguide.com and www.gaytravel-greece.com. Also keep in mind that Athens Pride (www.athenspride.eu) takes place the third weekend in June.

Gay & Lesbian Bars/Clubs

Blue Train, 84 Konstantinoupoleos, Gazi (tel. 210/346-0677; www.bluetrain.gr; daily 8pm-4am), is right by the railway tracks on the edge of Gazi. The friendly scene here is a great place to begin the evening, preferably on the sidewalk seating where you can watch the trains and the boys go by. Kazarma, first floor, 84 Konstantinoupoleos, Gazi (tel. 210/346-0667; Wed-Sun midnight-5am), is above Blue Train, one of the best gay clubs in the city. During summer the fun moves to the terrace. Lamda, 15 Lembessi and 9 Syngrou, Makrigianni (tel. 210/922-4202; www.lamdaclub.gr; Metro: Akropolis; daily 11pm-5am), has been popular for so long, it has become an Athenian institution. The energy on the ground floor is mostly laid back, while things in the basement get far rowdier. Perhaps the cavelike dark rooms (the only ones in town) are to blame. Mayo, 33 Persefonis, Gazi (tel. 210/342-3066; daily 8pm-4am), is a quiet bar with a great inner courtyard and a rooftop terrace with a killer view. An excellent place to begin your evening with a couple of drinks on the balcony before hitting the more rowdy places. Micraasia, 70 Konstantinopoleos, Gazi (tel. 210/346-4851; daily 7:30pm-4am), whose name means "Asia Minor," has a decor with something of the Middle Eastern vibe of the old Greek world in that region (now Turkey). Red lighting, colored tiles, chaises, and belly dancers all contribute to making this a unique, atmospheric, and interesting venue (mostly for girls). There is also seating on its "secret" rooftop. The girls have made Noiz, 41 Evmolpidon and Konstantinoupoleos, Gazi (tel. 210/342-4771; www.noizclub.gr; weeknights 10:30pm-4am, weekends 10:30pm-6am), into the most popular lesbian bar/club in town. With its good music and dynamic scene, Noiz has become the ultimate lesbian party. So Bar So Food, 23 Persefonis, Gazi (tel. 210/341-7774; Tues-Sun 10pm-4am), is a popular lesbian bar for the girls who want to chill out with their friends before hitting the clubs. Much like Lamda, Sodade, 10 Triptopolemou, Gazi (tel. 210/346-8657; www.sodade.gr; weeknights 10:30pm-4am, weekends 10:30pm-6am), has also become an institution in Athenian gay nightlife. Unbearably packed on weekends but always fun. S'Cape, Iera Odos and 139 Meg. Alexandrou, Gazi (tel. 210/345-2751; weeknights 10:30pm-4am, weekends 10:30pm-6am), is a large club. With army bunks, military-style motif, and a sexy crowd, the place is fun and very cruisy, but never takes itself too seriously. Monday is Karaoke night, Thursday is Greek night.

Restaurants

Myrovolos, 12 Giatrakou, Metaxourgeio (tel. 210/522-8806), is a popular gay restaurant in a wonderful venue in a large piazza that opens at 11am every day as a cafe. It then becomes a very good restaurant before morphing into a very busy bar for girls who love other girls, and their friends. Sappho, 35 Megalou Alexandrou, Metaxourgeio (tel. 210/523-6447), is owned by two lesbians from the island of Lesbos. They serve traditional and delicious dishes from their island at very reasonable prices. Also, don't forget to check out the very popular restaurants Mamakas and Prosopa, both mainstream but still very gay-friendly.

Beach

Not a typical beach as there is no sand, Limanakia B is a series of beautiful rocky coves. Nearby Limanakia A is far more popular, with a cafe/bar built right inside the rock and a rowdy, party crowd of teenagers and 20-somethings. Limanakia B is more forlorn and has no such features. If you take the tram to Plateia Glyfadas then bus no. E22 to Limanakia (third stop), once you get off the bus you will see a roadside canteen with outdoor seating on a wooden deck. This is where you can stock up on snacks and water before descending down to the water and where, after sunning and swimming, you can linger for the sunset. Visitors follow the steep trail down to the water and claim their own rock. The water is beautiful, and so are some of the visitors. Nudity and public sex are common, especially late in the day when men get to know each other in private caves.

Bookstore

Even though Colorful Planet, 6 Antoniadou, Plateia Victoria (tel. 210/882-6600; www.colourfulplanet.gr; Metro: Victoria), caters mostly to a Greek gay and lesbian clientele with many Greek and international (translated) works of gay literature, there is still enough here to browse through, such as DVDs, calendars, gay foreign press, gay guides to Greece, and many other goodies.