Getting There

The new Athens International Airport Eleftherios Venizelos (tel. 210/353-0000; www.aia.gr), 27km (17 miles) northeast of Athens at Spata, opened in 2001. The airport is usually called "Venizelos" or "Spata," after its nearest town. Time will tell whether the airport will meet its goal of handling 50 million passengers annually and become the leading airport in southeastern Europe. The good news about the new airport is that in contrast to the old Hellenikon Airport, Venizelos is a large, modern facility, with ample restrooms, interesting shops, and acceptable restaurants. The bad news is that it is a serious slog from Athens; you no longer have the option of heading back into the city for a few extra hours of sightseeing if your flight is delayed. The airport has plenty to keep you busy anyway, including a small museum with ruins found during the airport's construction and rotating art exhibits.

Look for free brochures that describe the airport's facilities at stands throughout the airport. Neither these publications, however, nor the airport's website, can be relied on for accurate up-to-date information. Here is a basic introduction to Athens's airport, based on information that was up-to-date at press time.

Arrivals

Most flights arrive at the main terminal, which has both an "A" and "B" area, but some flights -- including most charter flights -- arrive and depart from Spata's first of a projected cluster of satellite terminals. In addition, you may deplane down a steep flight of stairs onto the tarmac, where a bus will take you to the terminal. When planning what carry-on luggage to bring, keep in mind that it can be quite a trek from your arrival point to the baggage claim area and Customs hall.

The baggage claim area has ATMs, telephones, restrooms, and luggage carts. Luggage carts cost 1€ ($1.30); if you see a cart attendant, he or she can make change for you. You can also use one of several free telephones in the baggage claim area to call for a porter. When we last passed through the airport, porters' fees were highly negotiable.

If your suitcases do not greet you in the baggage claim area, proceed to a "Baggage Tracing" desk.

Signs in the baggage claim area indicate which route to use for Customs. Citizens of Common Market countries (EEC) do not have to go through Passport Control; citizens of non-EEC countries, such as the U.S., must go through Passport Control.

If you are being met, you may want to rendezvous at the clearly marked Meeting Point (across from the Greek National Tourism Organization desk) between exits 2 and 3 in the main terminal Arrivals Hall.

The Pacific baggage storage (left luggage) facility is in the main terminal arrivals area; this service is officially open 24 hours a day and charges 2€ ($2.60) per piece per day.

Exits from the main terminal are signposted for taxi and bus connections into Athens.

Getting Into Athens -- Getting into post-Olympics Athens is an entirely different experience than what it used to be. The airport is linked to the city with a six-lane expressway (Attiki Odos), Metro, buses, and taxis. Public transportation to and from the airport is excellent and advised (especially the Metro because buses can be slow and get stuck in traffic during rush hour once they enter the city).

By Metro -- Line 3 of the Metro (6€/$7.80 single, 10€/$13 return -- valid for 48 hr.; one-way fare for two people is 10€/$13 and 15€/$20 for three) is more convenient, less expensive, and faster than any other way of getting from the airport to downtown or vice versa. Unless you have a lot of luggage or simply just want to get in a car and go after a long flight, the Metro is the perfect option. The Metro line 3 serves the city center (where you can switch to the other lines at either Monastiraki or Syntagma stations) from the airport. The trip takes roughly 35 minutes and trains run every half-hour from 6:30am to 11:30pm. From the city to the airport (leaving from Syntagma and Monastiraki) trains run from 5:50am to 10:50pm. To get to Piraeus switch at Monastiraki station to line 1; total travel time is about 1 hour. At press time line 3 was set to reach the port of Piraeus, reducing travel time to the port to 50 minutes and not requiring a switch. Ask at the airport to see if the station has been opened upon your arrival. The airport ticket is valid for all forms of public transportation for 90 minutes; if you're approaching 90 minutes and are still in transit simply re-validate your ticket by having it punched again.

By Suburban Railroad -- The suburban railroad train runs to and from the Larissa station, Doukissis Plakentias, with a connection to Metro line 1 at Nerantziotissa (at the Athens Mall in Marousi near the Athens Olympic Complex). It might not be as convenient as line 3 but it is more comfortable, not as crowded, and runs longer hours. Trains to the airport run from 4:30am to midnight while the trains from the airport to the city run from 5am to 1:20am. The suburban railroad has the same pricing as the Metro, the only difference is that the return ticket is valid for a month.

By Bus -- Buses are far slower than the Metro but they are cheaper, run 24 hours, and can reach areas the Metro does not, such as the coast. If you want to take a bus from the airport into central Athens, be prepared for what may be a substantial wait and a slow journey.

There are several bus lines to and from the airport to destinations throughout the city. All buses depart from the designated area outside the Arrivals Terminal of the Main Terminal Building (Doors 4 and 5). Bus service from the airport to Syntagma Square or to Piraeus costs about 4€ ($5.20). You can buy the ticket from a booth beside the bus stop or on the bus. Do not assume that the destination indicated on the front of the bus, or on the sign at the bus stop, is the actual destination of the bus. Always ask the driver where the bus is going. In theory, bus no. 95 (and, confusingly, sometimes bus no. 091) runs to Syntagma and Omonia squares before continuing to Piraeus every half-hour from 7am to 10pm (1€/$1.30), and then every hour from about 10:15pm to 6:30am (3€/$3.90).

By Taxi -- The easiest way to get to town logically, you would assume, would be to take a taxi from immediately outside the terminal. This is not as simple as it sounds: Greeks regard waiting in line with amusement, and getting a cab as a fiercely competitive sport. A taxi should cost anywhere between 20€ and 30€ ($26-$39) depending on traffic to reach the city center. Athenian taxi drivers have an awful reputation (and deservedly so) with locals and tourists alike; the usual complaint aside from the rudeness and the smoking is the ripping off. With many mandatory etiquette classes before and after the Olympics, things are supposedly better, but be alert, never get into a taxi if the meter isn't turned on; if the driver refuses to do so, simply find another taxi. Once you are certain the meter is on, check to see that it's set on the correct tariff (tariff 1 is for the day: 5am-midnight, tariff 2 for night: midnight-5am). Keep in mind you will have to pay an additional 3€ ($4) airport surcharge and an additional 2.50€ ($3.25) on tolls (as well as .30€ (39¢) for each piece of luggage over 10 kilograms). Depending on traffic, the cab ride can take under 30 minutes or well over an hour -- something to remember when you return to the airport. Most likely you will not encounter any problems aside from city traffic. In the unlikelihood of an unpleasant experience you can threaten to call the police (tel. 100).

Taking a Taxi -- If you decide to take a taxi from the airport into Athens, ask an airline official or a policeman what the fare should be, and let the taxi driver know you've been told the official rate before you begin your journey. If you're taking a taxi from Athens to the airport, have the desk clerk at your hotel order it for you well in advance of your departure. Many taxis refuse to go to the airport, fearing that they'll have a long wait before they get a return fare.

By Car -- Even though post-Olympics Athens is a radically different city, with the Metro, the railroad, and a new network of ring roads that have eased the city's notorious traffic, make no mistake about it, it is not an easy city to drive in and if you're unfamiliar with the streets, it can be downright horrific. If you still choose to drive into Athens, you'll pass through the region known as Mesogeia (the inland). Until the new airport was built, this was one of the loveliest sections of Greece, with vineyards stretching for miles, sleepy country villages, and handsome chapels. Much of the area constituted the protected "Attic Park"; now, the once-protected wetlands and vineyards are busily being turned into new towns, sub-developments, malls -- and yet more roads. Numerous exits serve the most important areas of Athens.

If you plan to rent a car and head north or south and plan on avoiding the city altogether, its easier than ever to do thanks to the new National Road. If you're headed for Peloponnese simply follow the signs for Elefsina. If you're headed toward northern Greece (including the city of Thessaloniki) get off at the Lamia exit.

Arriving in Greece

If you plan to travel by air in Greece or elsewhere in Europe, keep in mind that the luggage allowance for most flights within Greece and Europe is 20 kilos (44 lb.) This is almost certainly less than you would have been allowed if you have flown to Greece from the U.S. or Canada.

Departures

If you are taking a taxi to the airport, ask the desk clerk at your hotel to reserve it for you well in advance of your departure. Many taxis refuse to go to the airport, fearing that they will have a long wait before they get a return fare. Allow a minimum of an hour for the ride plus 2 hours for check-in for an international flight. Once again you can hop on Metro line 3 at Syntagma or Monastiraki or take line 1 at Monastiraki and switch at Nerantziotissa for the suburban railroad.

For precise details on where to catch the airport bus from Athens to the airport, check with your hotel, the Greek National Tourism Organization, or -- if you are very well organized and not too tired! -- at an information desk when you arrive at the airport.

The flight information screens should indicate where you check in and what departure gate to go to. Make sure that the information on your boarding pass agrees with the information on the flight information screen. There have been frequent complaints that adequate information on arrivals, departures, cancellations, delays, and gate changes is not always posted. Nonetheless, it is important to check these screens and ask at the information desks, as there are no flight announcements.

Last-minute changes in your departure gate are not unknown; arrive at your gate as early as possible. Your best chance of finding out about a change is at the original gate.

Connecting Flights

The airport authority advises you to allow a minimum of 45 minutes to make a flight connection; this should be adequate if you arrive and depart from the main terminal and do not have to clear Customs. Allow at least an hour (1 1/2 hr. is even better) if you have to clear Customs or if you arrive or depart from the satellite terminal. At present, many charter flights use the satellite terminal.

Airport Facilities

The airport has about 35 shops ranging from chic boutiques to Travel Value to duty-free shops. There are 10 restaurants and cafes, including a Food Village with seven food "hubs" in the main departure lounge. A McDonald's overlooking the runways perches on the upper level of the main terminal building. As with airports around the world, both food and goods are overpriced, although the prices of books, newspapers, and magazines are reasonable.

Duty-free shops have different regulations for Intra-Schengen and Extra-Schengen passengers. In short, Intra-Schengen refers to flights within the Common Market (EEC); Extra-Schengen refers to flights outside the EEC. If you are flying from Athens to a country outside the EEC, you may find it worthwhile to check out the duty-free prices on perfumes and spirits.

The Greek National Tourism Organization (abbreviated GNTO in English-speaking countries and EOT in Greece) has an information desk in the Arrivals Hall.

Hertz, Avis, and Alamo rental cars are available at the airport. Note: All these companies levy a steep surcharge (at least 10%) if you collect your car at the airport rather than at their in-town offices.

Both short-term (3€/$3.90 per hour) and long-term (12€/$16 per day) parking is available at the airport. Much of the long-term parking is a serious walk from the main terminal. If you have the proper change (unlikely), you can use a machine to pay for your ticket; otherwise, join the queue at the payment booth.

Useful telephone numbers at Athens International Airport include: Information tel. 210/353-0000; Customs tel. 210/353-2014; Police tel. 210/663-5140; First Aid tel. 166 (from airport courtesy phones and information desks) and tel. 210/353-9408 (from pay phones).

Getting Between the Airport & Piraeus (Pireas)

By the time you read this, line 3 of the Metro (the same line that goes to and from the airport into the city center) may have reached the port of Piraeus in a new Metro station. In that case, it will be a 50-minute ride from the airport to the port and the ticket will be 6€ ($7.80)

At press time, taking the Metro from the airport to Piraeus (1 hour) requires a change at Monastiraki, so this is not recommended if you have a lot of luggage. A taxi from the airport to Piraeus should cost 20€ to 35€ ($26-$46). It's important to know that boats to the islands leave from several different Piraeus harbors. Most ferryboats and hydrofoils (Flying Dolphins) for Aegina leave from the Main Harbor. Hydrofoils for other islands leave from Marina Zea, a vigorous half-hour walk from the Main Harbor. If you don't know from which harbor your boat is leaving, tell your taxi driver your final destination and he can probably find out which harbor and even which pier you are leaving from.

In theory, buses leave the airport for Piraeus every hour (4€/$5.20). The bus usually leaves passengers in Karaiskaki Square, several blocks from the harbor. The official schedule is as follows: Spata-Piraeus (E96): Every 20 minutes from 5am to 7pm; every 30 minutes from 7pm to 8:30pm; every 40 minutes from 8:30pm to 5am.

Airline Offices

Most international carriers have ticket offices in or near Syntagma Square. Find out the location of your airline's Athens office before you leave home, as these offices can move without warning. Air Canada is at 10 Othonos (tel. 210/322-3206). American Airlines is at 15 Panepistimiou (tel. 210/331-1045 or 210/331-1046). British Airways is at 1 Themistokleous, at 130 Leoforos Vouliagmenis, Glyfada (tel. 210/890-6666). Delta Air Lines is at 4 Othonos (tel. 800/4412-9506). Lufthansa Airlines is at 11 Leoforos Vas. Sofias (tel. 210/617-5200). Qantas Airways is at 2 Nikodimou (tel. 210/323-9063). Swissair is at 4 Othonos (tel. 210/323-5811). Turkish Airlines is at 19 Filellinon (tel. 210/324-6024).

Olympic, the national carrier, offers both international and domestic service and has offices just off Syntagma Square at 15 Filellinon (tel. 210/926-7555); at 6 Othonos (tel. 210/926-7444); and at 96 Leoforos Syngrou (tel. 210/926-7251 to -7254). The main reservations and information numbers are tel. 210/966-6666 and 210/936-9111; the website is www.olympic-airways.gr.