Varoulko

Frommer's Review

After years in an unlikely location on a Piraeus side street, chef-owner Lefteris Lazarou has moved what many already consider the greater Athens area's finest seafood restaurant into more fitting digs in central Athens with a drop-dead gorgeous view of the Acropolis. I had one of the best meals of my life here -- smoked eel; artichokes with fish roe; crayfish with sun-dried tomatoes; monkfish livers with soy sauce, honey, and balsamic vinegar -- and the best sea bass and monkfish I have ever eaten. Sweetbreads, goat stew, and tripe soup have joined seafood on the menu.

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