The core of the city's nightlife is the Canal de São Roque, near the Mercado de Peixe in the town center. Here you'll find a trio of 18th-century stone salt warehouses. They've been transformed into attractive, richly folkloric bars that draw loyal local patrons. One is Salpoente (tel. 23/438-26-74), which functions from noon to 2:30pm and 7:30 to 10pm as a well-managed restaurant and then Friday and Saturday from 10:30pm to around 2am as a venue for live concerts. Expect to hear lots of Brazilian samba and rock -- everything except fado. Salpoente is one of the few eateries in town with views that encompass both the lagoon and the town's age-old salt pans. Another choice is the Urgência Bar (tel. 23/442-80-82).
If you want to go dancing, head for the town's most appealing dance club, Disco Oito Graus a Oeste (Eight Degrees West Disco), Canal do Paraiso (tel. 23/442-32-17).
