Side Trips

Ellicott City

Visitors have been coming to this tiny Patapsco River town, 14 miles from Baltimore, for 230 years. The town was built to support the Ellicott brothers' mill, the largest flour-milling center in Colonial America. In 1831, America's first railroad terminal was constructed here and still stands today. It was also here that the Tom Thumb, Peter Cooper's steam engine, raced and beat a horse-drawn vehicle. The country's first national road also ran through Ellicott City and gave farmers a route to the Atlantic.

Step back and look at the solid stone buildings still lining Main Street. The inns built in the 1800s remain -- even the Colonial Inn and Opera House (now the Forget-Me-Not Factory), where John Wilkes Booth, it is said, got his start as an actor. Over the years, the town has endured fires, floods, and hurricanes. Through it all, it has survived, and its history and charm continue to draw visitors.

Getting There -- From Route 70, take Route 29 South to Route 40 East. Turn right on Rogers Avenue and right again on Courthouse Drive, which ends at Main Street (Rte. 144). Turn left into the historic district. From the Beltway (Rte. 695), either take Route 70 West and follow the above directions or take Route 40 West and turn left on Rogers Avenue, right on Courthouse Drive, and left on Main Street.

Visitor Information -- The visitor center, at 8267 Main St. (tel. 410/313-1900), is open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 5pm, Sunday from noon to 5pm. Look for the side entrance on Hamilton Street. You'll find a great self-guided walking tour brochure that offers some insight into the buildings' history.

Parking -- If you look hard, you can find parking spaces in lots marked with blue "P" signs. There are metered lots off Main Street near the visitor center, down a driveway under the railroad bridge, and on Maryland Avenue near the Ellicott City B&O Railroad Museum. You can get change for the meters at the visitor center or the railroad museum. (If the parking space is lined in yellow, you have to pay; it's free if the space is white.) Warning: On-street parking, though not metered, has a 1- or 2-hour limit between 10am and 6pm -- and you will be ticketed if you stay too long.

Some lots are free: The Oella lot is across the Patapsco River Bridge near the Trolley Stop restaurant. Another free lot is down a driveway on Ellicott Mills Drive. Finally, the two lots at the court house, 2 blocks from the historic district, have 200 free spaces. The walk is short, though uphill on the way back to your car. A good brochure from the visitor center explains where and how to park.

Where to Dine -- Ellicott City has 17 restaurants crammed along its narrow streets. For traditional French, don't miss the wonderful Tersiguel's French Country Restaurant, 8293 Main St. (tel. 410/465-4004; www.tersiguels.com). La Palapa, 8307 Main St. (tel. 410/465-0070; www.lapalapagrill.com), serves Mexican in a gaily decorated atmosphere. Cacao Lane Restaurant, 8066 Main St. (tel. 410/461-1378; www.cacaolane.net), is a casual spot with a Continental menu. Light-rock musicians perform Friday and Saturday evenings. The Ellicott Mills Brewing Company, 8308 Main St. (tel. 410/313-8141; www.ellicottmillsbrewing.com), brews its own beer to accompany the German and pub-style entrees.

What to See & Do -- "Ye Haunted History of Old Ellicott City" tours are offered April through November, Friday and Saturday at 8:30pm. Reservations are essential; call tel. 410/310-1900.

The Ellicott City B&O Railroad Station, 2711 Maryland Ave. (tel. 410/313-1413, www.ecborail.org), America's oldest train station, houses artifacts and model trains. Annie Oakley and Charles Dickens were among the travelers who stopped here. Hours are Wednesday through Sunday from 11am to 4pm. Admission is $5 adults, $3 for children.

The Thomas Isaac Log Cabin, 8398 Main St. (tel. 410/313-1413; www.thomasisaaclogcabin.net), a settler's cabin, was built about 1780 -- making it the town's oldest residence (Mon-Tues and Thurs 10am-5pm).

Just down Frederick Road -- called Main Street in the historic district -- is Benjamin Banneker Historical Park and Museum, 300 Oella Ave. (tel. 410/887-1081). Dedicated to the first African-American "man of science," the modern museum has interactive exhibits about Banneker, who surveyed the land for construction of Washington, D.C. The park has lots of green space and nature trails. It's open Tuesday through Saturday from 10am to 4pm; a $3 donation is suggested. Take Frederick Road east across Patapsco River Bridge; turn left at Oella Avenue.

Havre de Grace

Havre de Grace -- tucked up near the Mason-Dixon line, 28 miles northeast of Baltimore -- is primarily a sailing town now, though it was once an important Colonial crossroads. This picturesque town makes an excellent stopping place either to or from Baltimore. It's known for good restaurants, charming shops, a lighthouse, and stunning views of the spot where the Susquehanna River becomes the Chesapeake Bay.

The area was originally home to the Susquehannocks, with the first European settlers arriving in 1658. First called Harmer's Town, it soon became the location of a river ferry, which operated for 170 years. After the Revolutionary War, it adopted its current name from a suggestion by French soldiers who lovingly compared it to La Havre back home. This was a popular stop in the early 20th century, when a famous racetrack drew the likes of the legendary Seabiscuit, Man o' War, and Citation. Today, the town is much quieter, but it remains a crossroads -- for trains racing across the river, for barges carrying stone down the bay, and for people speeding along I-95.

Getting There -- You could sail into Havre de Grace from the lower Chesapeake Bay. Most people, however, drive here. It's only 4 minutes off I-95 at Exit 89 (Rte. 155). Take Route 155 east and go under the Route 40 bridge. Turn right on Juniata Street, left on Otsego Street, and right on Water Street, and you'll be heading into town along the water's edge. Parking is available on the street, at the parks and museums, and at each end of the promenade.

Visitor Information -- The Havre de Grace Tourism Commission is at 450 Pennington Ave., between Union Avenue and Market Street (tel. 800/851-7756 or 410/939-2100; www.hdgtourism.com). Check the website for maps and sightseeing information. Or while you're on I-95, stop at the Chesapeake House visitor center for brochures. Wherever you stop, make sure you pick up a walking-tour guide and the handy museum guide.

Special Events -- In early May, the reenactment of the attack on Havre de Grace in the War of 1812 (tel. 410/942-5780) takes place on the Lock House grounds. Mid-August brings the Havre de Grace Seafood Festival (tel. 410/939-1525) to Tydings Park, with auctions and a crab-calling contest. On the weekend after Labor Day, the Duck Fair (tel. 410/939-3739) celebrates wildlife art at the Havre de Grace Decoy Museum and grounds. First Fridays, from April to December, feature street performances and specials at restaurants and shops.

Where to Stay -- Since Havre de Grace is just down Route 40 from the Aberdeen Proving Ground, a military installation, there are plenty of chain hotels nearby, such as Best Western (tel. 410/679-9700), Days Inn (tel. 410/671-9990), and Four Points by Sheraton (tel. 410/273-1300).

What to See & Do -- Lots of visitors to Havre de Grace come just for the water views -- which you can see from the promenade, the parks, and several restaurants. The Millard E. Tydings Memorial Park has room for a picnic, or you can bring your fishing rod to the Frank J. Hutchins Memorial Park. The half-mile promenade takes pedestrians (and bikers before 10am) along the southeast edge of town. It starts (or ends) at the Concord Point Lighthouse and winds through wetlands and along the shore to Tydings Park. Along the way, stop at the Havre de Grace Decoy Museum or the Havre de Grace Maritime Museum.

The town boasts six small museums and historic sites: four in town and two on the outskirts. They take only an hour or two to walk through, and admission is downright cheap. In fact, an adult can visit all six for less than $20. Hours are limited to the weekends, except the decoy and maritime museums, which are open daily.

Tours & Boat Rides -- The Martha Lewis (tel. 410/939-4078; www.skipjackmarthalewis.org), docked at Tydings Park, offers cruises on most weekends from May to mid-October. Summer visitors can learn about sailing one of the last skipjacks on the bay -- the 1955 boat is still a working girl, spending her winters dredging for oysters in the Chesapeake Bay. Oyster dredging trips are available in November or December. Call for reservations. The Mississippi riverboat Lantern Queen (tel. 410/939-1468; www.lanternqueen.com) offers dinner and sunset cruises from its dock at Hutchins Park, at the foot of Congress Avenue. Call for reservations and sailing schedule.

Shopping -- Havre de Grace's shops are about 7 blocks north of the promenade. Though it can be a pleasant walk along tree-lined Union Avenue or Market Street, it might be worth driving the short distance if it's a sultry day. Parking is free but limited to 2 hours.

Antiques shops dot Franklin and Washington streets. For furniture, stop at Bayside Antiques, 232 N. Washington St. (tel. 410/939-9397). Decoy fans will want to stop at Vincenti Decoys, 353 Pennington Ave. (tel. 410/734-7709). Chocolates are made on the premises at family-owned Bomboy's, 329 Market St. (tel. 410/939-2924; www.bomboyscandy.com).

Boating -- Boat ramps are at Millard E. Tydings Memorial Park, Frank J. Hutchins Memorial Park, and Jean Roberts Memorial Park. The launching fee is $5. Tidewater Marina, at the foot of Bourbon Street (tel. 410/939-0950), has transient boat slips. Experienced sailors can charter a yacht from BaySail (tel. 410/939-2869; www.baysail.net) for a weekend or a couple hours. It also has 3- to 5-day courses for everyone from beginners to advanced sailors.

Hiking -- Trails through Susquehanna State Park offer pretty views of the Susquehanna River, as well as all those bridges crossing it. They're open to hikers, bikers, horses, and cross-country skiers. If you go by way of the Lower Susquehanna Heritage Greenway, it's possible to walk to the dam -- which is quite a sight. The huge concrete dam holds back the mighty river, reducing it to a shallow rocky bed.