Side Trips

Ellicott City

Visitors have been coming to this tiny Patapsco River town, 14 miles from Baltimore, for 230 years. The town was originally built to support the Ellicott brothers' mill, the largest flour-milling center in Colonial America. In 1831, America's first railroad terminal was constructed here and still stands today. It was also here that the Tom Thumb, Peter Cooper's steam engine, raced and beat a horse-drawn vehicle. In addition, the country's first National Road ran through Ellicott City and gave farmers a route to the Atlantic.

Step back and look at the solid stone buildings still lining Main Street. The inns built in the 1800s remain -- even the Colonial Inn and Opera House (now the Forget-Me-Not Factory), where John Wilkes Booth, it is said, got his start as an actor. Over the years, the town has endured fires, floods, and hurricanes. Through it all, it has survived, and its history and charm continue to draw visitors.

Getting There -- From Route 70, take Route 29 South to Route 40 East. Turn right on Rogers Avenue and right again on Courthouse Drive, which ends at Main Street (Rte. 144). Turn left into the historic district. From the Beltway (Rte. 695), either take Route 70 West and follow the above directions or take Route 40 West and turn left on Rogers Avenue, right on Courthouse Drive, and left on Main Street.

Visitor Information -- The visitor center, at 8267 Main St., is open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 5pm, Sunday from noon to 5pm. The entrance is on the Hamilton Street side.

Parking -- If you look hard, you can find a parking space in lots marked with blue "P" signs. There are metered lots off Main Street near the visitor center, down a driveway under the railroad bridge, and down Maryland Avenue, which runs next to the B&O Railroad Museum. You can get change for the meters at the visitor center or the railroad museum. (If the parking space is yellow, you have to pay; it's free if the space is lined in white.) Warning: On-street parking, though not metered, has a 1- or 2-hour limit between 10am and 6pm -- and you will be ticketed if you stay too long.

Some lots are free: The Oella lot is across the Patapsco River bridge near the Trolley Stop restaurant. Another free lot is down a driveway on Ellicott Mills Drive. Finally, the two lots at the Court House, 2 blocks from the historic district, have 200 free spaces. The walk is short, though uphill on the way back to your car. A good brochure from the visitor center explains where and how to park.

Where to Dine -- Ellicott City has 17 restaurants crammed in its narrow streets. For traditional French, don't miss Tersiguel's French Country Restaurant, 8293 Main St. (tel. 410/465-4004; www.tersiguels.com). La Palapa, 8307 Main St. (tel. 410/465-0070; www.lapalapagrill.com), serves Mexican in a gaily decorated atmosphere.

Cacao Lane Restaurant, 8066 Main St. (tel. 410/461-1378; www.cacaolane.net), is a casual spot with a Continental menu. Light rock musicians perform Friday and Saturday evenings. The Ellicott Mills Brewing Company, 8308 Main St. (tel. 410/313-8141; www.ellicottmillsbrewing.com), brews its own beer to accompany the German and pub-style entrees.

What to See & Do -- "Ye Haunted History of Old Ellicott City" tours are offered April through November, Friday and Saturday at 8:30pm. Reservations are essential; call tel. 800/288-8747.

The Ellicott City B&O Railroad Station, 2711 Maryland Ave. (tel. 410/313-1413), America's oldest train station, now houses artifacts and model trains. Among the travelers who once stopped here were Annie Oakley and Charles Dickens. Hours are Friday and Saturday from 11am to 4pm, Sunday from noon to 4pm.

The Thomas Isaac Log Cabin, 8398 Main St. (tel. 410/313-1413; www.thomasisaaclogcabin.net), a settler's cabin, was built about 1780 -- making it the town's oldest residence. Open Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday from 10am to 5pm.

A yellow 1889 building topped with a big bell houses the City Firehouse Museum, 3829 Church Rd. (tel. 410/313-1413). Open Sunday from 1 to 4pm.

You can wander the grounds and enjoy the views of the river valley at the Patapsco Female Institute Historic Park, 3691 Sarah's Lane (tel. 410/465-8500; www.patapscofemaleinstitute.org), which preserves the ruins of a 19th-century school for young ladies. It's open Sundays from 1 to 4pm, April through October; tours are available.

Just down Frederick Road -- called Main Street in the historic district -- is Benjamin Banneker Historical Park and Museum, 300 Oella Ave. (tel. 410/887-1081). Dedicated to the first African-American "man of science," the modern museum has interactive exhibits about Banneker, who surveyed the land for construction of Washington, D.C. The park has lots of green space and nature trails. Open Tuesday through Saturday from 10am to 4pm; a $3 donation is suggested. Take Frederick Road east across Patapsco River bridge; turn left at Oella Avenue.

Shopping -- Antiques and gift shops line Main Street and the side streets. Hours are generally 10am to 6pm; many stores are closed on Monday or Tuesday.

For antiques, stop at Cottage Antiques, 8181 Main St. (tel. 410/465-1412); Joan Eve, 8013 Main St. (tel. 410/750-1210); and Taylor's Antique Mall, 8197 Main St. (tel. 410/465-4444). For home decorating, look in Su Casa, 8098 Main St. (tel. 410/522-7010), and What's in Store, 8307 Main St. (tel. 410/750-2468).

Ellicott's Country Store, 8180 Main St. (tel. 410/465-4482), is worth a visit for the architecture -- it's considered the oldest duplex in the country. Handcrafted gifts are featured at Discoveries, 8055 Main St. (tel. 410/461-9600).

The Forget-Me-Not Factory, 8044 Main St. (tel. 410/465-7355), is filled with magic wands, fairy wings, collectibles, and costumes. The Stillridge Herb Shop, 8129 Main St. (tel. 410/461-9266), sends its own magic into the air: Lavender, rosemary, and dried fruits tumble from baskets outside the shop.

Havre de Grace

Havre de Grace -- tucked up near the Mason-Dixon line, 28 miles northeast of Baltimore -- is primarily a sailing town now, though it was once an important Colonial crossroads. If you're headed to or from Baltimore, this picturesque town makes an excellent stopping place, as it's known for its good restaurants, charming shops, lighthouse, and stunning views of the spot where the Susquehanna River becomes the Chesapeake Bay.

The area was originally home to the Susquehannocks, with the first European settlers arriving in 1658. It was called Harmer's Town in those days and soon became the location of a river ferry, which operated for 170 years. After the Revolutionary War, it adopted its current name from a suggestion by French soldiers who lovingly compared it to La Havre back home. This was a popular stop in the early 20th century, when a famous racetrack drew the likes of the legendary Seabiscuit, Man o' War, and Citation. Today, the town is much quieter, but it remains a crossroads: for the trains racing across the river, for the barges carrying stone down the bay, and for all the people speeding along I-95.

Getting There -- You could sail into Havre de Grace from the lower Chesapeake Bay. Most people, however, drive here. It's only 4 minutes off I-95 at Exit 89 (Rte. 155.) Take Route 155 east and go under the Route 40 bridge. Turn right on Juniata Street, left on Otsego Street, and right on Water Street, and you'll be heading into town along the water's edge. Parking is available on the street, at the parks and museums, and at each end of the promenade.

Visitor Information -- The Havre de Grace Tourism Commission is at 450 Pennington Ave., between Union Avenue and Market Street (tel. 800/851-7756 or 410/939-2100; www.hdgtourism.com). Check the website for maps and sightseeing information. Or while you're on I-95, stop at the Chesapeake House visitor center for brochures. Wherever you stop, make sure you pick up a walking-tour guide and the handy museum guide.

Special Events -- In early May, the Re-enactment of the Attack on Havre de Grace in War of 1812 (tel. 410/942-5780) takes place on the Lock House grounds. Mid-August brings the Havre de Grace Seafood Festival (tel. 410/939-1525) to Tydings Park, featuring food, entertainment, auctions, and a crab-calling contest. On the weekend after Labor Day, the Duck Fair (tel. 410/939-3739) celebrates wildlife art at the Havre de Grace Decoy Museum and grounds, with food, entertainment, and children's activities. First Fridays, from April to December, feature street performances and specials at restaurants and shops.

Where to Stay -- Since Havre de Grace is just down Route 40 from the Aberdeen Proving Ground, a military installation, there are plenty of nearby chain hotels, such as Best Western (tel. 410/679-9700), Days Inn (tel. 410/671-9990), and Four Points by Sheraton (tel. 410/273-1300).

What to See & Do -- Lots of visitors to Havre de Grace come just for the water views -- which you can see from the promenade, the parks, and several restaurants. The Millard E. Tydings Memorial Park has room for a picnic, or you can bring your fishing rod to the Frank J. Hutchins Memorial Park. The half-mile promenade takes pedestrians (and bikers before 10am) on a route along the southeast edge of town. It starts (or ends) at the Concord Point Lighthouse and winds through wetlands and along the shore to Tydings Park. Along the way, you can stop at the Havre de Grace Decoy Museum or the Havre de Grace Maritime Museum.

The town boasts six small museums and historic sites: four in town and two on the outskirts. They take only an hour or two to walk through, and admission is downright cheap. In fact, an adult can visit all six for less than $20. Hours are limited to the weekends, except the decoy and maritime museums, which are open daily.

Tours & Boat Rides -- The Martha Lewis (tel. 410/939-4078; www.skipjackmarthalewis.org), docked at Tydings Park, offers fun 75-minute rides on most weekends from May to mid-October. Summer visitors can learn about sailing one of the last skipjacks on the bay -- the 46-year-old boat is still a working girl, spending her winters dredging for oysters in the Chesapeake Bay. Those interested in seeing a skipjack doing what a skipjack does best can take a dredging trip in November or December. Call ahead for reservations. The Lantern Queen (tel. 410/939-1468; www.lanternqueen.com) looks like it would be more comfortable on the Mississippi, but here it is, docked at Hutchins Park at the foot of Congress Avenue. Dinner cruises are offered Thursday and Friday nights at 6:30pm; reservations are required. Call for rates and sailing schedule.

Shopping -- Havre de Grace's shops are about 7 blocks north of the promenade. Though it can be a pleasant walk along tree-lined Union Avenue or Market Street, it might be worth driving the short distance if it's a sultry day. Parking is free, but limited to 2 hours.

Antiques shops dot Franklin and Washington streets. Bayside Antiques, 230 N. Washington St. (tel. 410/939-9397), holds a wide variety of furniture in its 10,000 square feet, along with decoys for about $40. Decoy fans will definitely want to stop at Vincenti Decoys, 353 Pennington Ave. (tel. 410/734-7709), to see the numerous finely carved birds. The chocolates at Bomboy's, 329 Market St. (tel. 410/939-2939; www.bomboyscandy.com), are made right at the family-owned shop; homemade ice cream is sold at a second shop across the street. Both are closed Mondays.

Boating -- Havre de Grace has boat ramps at Millard E. Tydings Memorial Park, Frank J. Hutchins Memorial Park, and Jean Roberts Memorial Park. The launching fee is $5. Tidewater Marine, at the foot of Bourbon Street (tel. 410/939-0950), has transient slips if you want to sail into town. Experienced sailors can charter a yacht from BaySail (tel. 410/939-2869; www.baysail.net) for a weekend or a couple hours. It also has 3- to 5-day courses for everyone from beginners to advanced sailors.

Hiking -- Trails through Susquehanna State Park offer pretty views of the Susquehanna River, as well as all those bridges crossing it. They're open to hikers, bikers, horseback riders, and cross-country skiers. If you go by way of the Lower Susquehanna Heritage Greenway, it's possible to walk the trail to the dam -- which is quite a sight. The huge concrete dam holds back the mighty river, reducing it to a very shallow, rocky river bed.