Attractions

Although it was ruled by various dynasties, Bangalore's chief historical sights date back to the 18th-century reign of Hyder Ali and his son Tipu Sultan, "the Lion of Mysore," who put up the most spirited resistance to British imperialism. But more than anything, Bangalore is about experiencing an Indian city that brims with bars, restaurants, clubs, and positive energy -- a great place for walking, window-shopping and, at night, letting your hair down. The Garden City also has lovely parks, some of which date back over 2 centuries, of which the botanical gardens at Lal Bagh are the most impressive.

Set off early for Bugle Hill, site of the Bull Temple (sanctum timings daily 7:30am-11:30am and 4:30-8:30pm). Built by the city's original architect, Kempe Gowda, this 16th-century black-granite statue of Nandi (Shiva's sacred bull) literally dwarfs his "master," and is kept glistening by regular applications of coconut oil. Nearby is a Ganesha temple (Sri Dodda Ganapathi), which houses an enormous statue of the elephant-headed deity made of 100 kilos of rank-smelling butter. Apparently this idol is remade every 4 years, and the butter distributed to devotees as prasad (blessed food).

Picnicking with the family, cricketing with the boys, and holding hands in secret (with all possible gender combinations) are popular pastimes in Cubbon Park (Cantonment), laid out in 1864 by the Mysore engineer, Richard Sankey and named after the longest serving Commissioner of Bangalore. Today many visitors come to view the lovely buildings that surround the park as well as to visit the Government Museum and Venkatappa Art Gallery (tel. 080/2286-4483; Rs 4/10¢/5p; Tues-Sun 10am-5pm), which focuses on sculpture. It contains works from Khajuraho, Bihar, and Madhya Pradesh dating back to the 10th century, Buddhist figures from the 4th- and 5th-century Gandhara school, and Hoysala carvings from Belur, Halebid, and Hampi -- not that these are really a match for the real thing, seen on location. While in the vicinity, take a walk or drive past Vidhana Vidhi to admire its Greco colonial-style buildings, including India's largest state headquarters, Vidhana Soudha, Karnataka's State Legislature and Secretariat building (no entry allowed), to marvel at what is termed "neo-Dravidian" architecture. Its blend of styles from across India is capped by one of India's most recognizable symbols -- the four-headed gold lion of Ashoka, India's celebrated early Buddhist king. Over the entrance, a gleaming gold-lettered sign bears the somewhat optimistic slogan GOVERNMENT WORK IS GOD'S WORK. Across the road from the Vidhana Soudha, fringing Cubbon Park, is Karnataka's two-story High Court building, or Attara Kacheri, an attractive design with red bricks and monumental Corinthian columns.

If it's a real garden you're after, head straight for the botanical gardens at Lal Bagh (Rs 2/5¢/5p; daily 7am-6pm), conceived and laid out by Sultan Hyder Ali in 1760. His son, Tipu, expanded the gardens further, planting exotic plants from Persia, Kabul, Turkey, and Mauritius over 96 hectares (240 acres). Highlights include the Lawn Clock and the British-built glasshouse, structurally based on London's Crystal Palace. After visiting the gardens, be sure to pop in for a meal at the Bangalore lunch institution, Mavalli Tiffin Rooms, a short distance from the entrance.

Tipu Sultan's Summer Palace (Rs 2/5¢/5p; daily 9am-5pm), built toward the end of the 18th century entirely from timber, is a relic in a city committed more to progress than to preservation. It has a somewhat sophomoric exhibition with extensive text about Tipu's life and military conquests as well as those of his father, Hyder Ali Khan. Next door is an enormously active 17th-century temple, built by the Wodeyar kings; and just north are the ruins of Bangalore Fort, largely destroyed during the Anglo-Mysore War.

Cultural Activities

Check the local dailies for information about cultural events. Besides art exhibitions and traditional dance and music performances, Bangalore draws major international artists, including pop and rock stars.

The violin-shaped auditorium known as Chowdaiah Memorial Hall (Gayathri Devi Park Extension, Vyalikaval; tel. 080/2344-5810) hosts regular classical music performances, as well as film, dance, and drama. Plays are regularly staged at Rabindra Kalakshetra (Jayachamarachendra Rd.; tel. 080/2224-1325), where you can also catch occasional art exhibitions. Numerous art galleries around the city host contemporary Indian art and other exhibitions. Venkatappa Art Gallery, attached to the Government Museum (Kasturba Rd.; tel. 080/2286-4483; Rs 10/25¢/15p; Tues-Sun 10am-5pm), displays more than 600 paintings year-round. Chitrakala Parishat (Art Complex, Kumara Krupa Rd.; tel. 080/2226-1816) has a varied collection of traditional paintings, leather puppets, and artifacts from all over Karnataka. Visit its various art studios and gallery spaces, the open-air theater, and (in particular) the Roerich and Kejriwal galleries. For high-end art, check out Gallerie Zen (121 Dickenson Rd.; tel. 080/2671-0412; by appointment only).

Nrityagram Dance Village (along the Bangalore-Pune Hwy., 35km/22 miles from Bangalore) is a renowned center for Indian dance training. Performances feature students as well as established artists. Organized tours of the facility include lecture-demonstrations designed to introduce you to Indian culture, life philosophy, and both kathak and odissi dance forms (tel. 080/2846-6313; tours Rs 20/50¢/25p per person; Tues-Sun 10am-5:30pm, dance classes 10:30am-1pm). A through-the-night dance and music festival is held in February; it attracts almost 30,000 spectators, so decent seating is at a premium.

Learn the "Art of Living" with India's Hot New Age Guru

Sri Sri Ravi Shankar, once a disciple of Maharishi Mahesh Yogi (renowned spiritual guide of the Beatles), is the subcontinent's hottest New Age guru -- many consider "The Art of Living," his nonsectarian philosophy of enjoying life for the moment, the perfect spiritual currency for our material times. His main ashram lies on 24 hectares (60 acres) of lush green hillside in south Bangalore, where every evening thousands of the city's well-heeled gather for the evening lecture and satsang (devotional singing). The articulate Sri Sri's appeal lies in the fact that he does not emphasize incarnations or abstinences, but encourages his disciples to enjoy the present without guilt while also encouraging them to contribute towards humanitarian and environmental concerns. His adherents -- predominantly from India's growing urban elite (including Kingfisher's Vijay Mallya, the "Branson of Bangalore"), but also hugely popular on foreign shores (apparently San Franciscans have a real penchant for his teachings) -- can go about their hectic lives and remain relatively apolitical yet feel good about not discarding all sense of religion and tradition.

A philosophy of convenience, some say, but even his fiercest detractors admit the value of sudarshan kriya, an ancient breathing technique taught when you attend the "Art of Living" course. The 30-minute-a-day practice is said to encourage the flow of oxygen to the whole body, ostensibly discouraging the storage of toxins and thus helping release anxiety, frustration, depression, and anger, leaving you with a genuine sense of calm and well-being.

To attend an evening session or a 14-hour Art of Living course spread over several days, call ahead (21st Km, Kanakapura Main Rd., Udayapura, Bangalore 560 082; tel. 080/2843-2273, -2274; www.artofliving.org).

Rejuvenation City: Tip-Top Spas

Prompted by the emergence of an overstressed, well-heeled workforce, Bangalore has a number of well-known luxury and medical spas. Besides The Spa at Leela Palace Kempinski (tel. 080/2521-1234) in the city, three luxury spas lie about an hour outside Bangalore. The Golden Palms Spa (tel. 080/2371-2222), owned by Bollywood director Sanjay Khan, is part of an upmarket resort that not only provides routine spa treatments, but is the spot for discreet cosmetic surgery and anti-aging treatments. The attitude toward pampering is more laid-back at the internationally-affiliated Angsana Oasis Spa and Resort (tel. 080/2846-8893; www.angsana.com), offering spa packages from $825 (£418.35) for 2 nights (including taxes, meals, airport transfers, and a few treatments). Neither of these spas will restrict your diet or ban smoking or alcohol, and on weekends you can wholeheartedly tuck into their barbeque and grilled cuisine. In contrast, Soukya International Holistic Health Centre (in Whitefield, 30 min. from Bangalore; tel. 080/2794-5001 through -5004; www.soukya.com) is a medical spa that focuses on therapeutic and complementary therapies. Run by Dr Isaac Mathai, his nutritionist wife Suja, and a battery of experts, this is a nonsmoking, alcohol- and meat-free spa where everything is low fat, low salt, low spice, and organic. The focus is on individually created "holistic wellness programs" (from Hawaiian hot stone to specialized Ayurvedic treatments) that strengthen the body's immune system, including those belonging to some rather famous people, like healthy-living guru Andrew Weil , Fergie, Princess of York, and Archbishop Desmond Tutu. If this all sounds a little militaristic, then look no further than the latest luxury entrant: Shreyas Yoga Retreat (near Gollahalli Gate, 35km from the city; tel. 080/2773-7183; www.shreyasretreat.com; from $350 double including all meals, yoga classes, and wellness consulations), voted one of the best yoga retreats by Harper's & Queen and Business Week. The brainchild of Wall Street banker Pawan Malik, the boutique retreat is set in gorgeously landscaped gardens, with Bali-inspired accommodations. It's a great blend of the simple ashram style (someone describes it as ashram meets Aman!), no-nonsense (but challenging) yoga lessons, very relaxing "rejuvenation" massages, stress management and wellness programmes, all aimed at assisting you long-term in maintaining a more balanced life. Also adhering to the no alcohol/meat lifestyle, it prides itself on its massive vegetable garden where you are welcome to get your hands dirty. Emphasis is on practicing a bit of ashthanga and hatha yoga (mornings and evenings, but not compulsory), which is taught outdoors under swaying palms. Limited to 4 cottages and 8 tented cottages set in 25 acres, the atmosphere is discreet and personal, amenities are luxurious and service excellent. (Note: If you are planning to carry on to Goa from Karnataka, also take a look at Swaswara -- a yoga retreat on the northern tip of Karnataka's coast, bordering Goa.