Things To Do in Bangalore

Although it was ruled by various dynasties, Bengaluru's chief historical sights date back to the 18th-century reign of Hyder Ali and his son Tipu Sultan, "the Lion of Mysore," who put up the most spirited resistance to British imperialism. But more than anything, the temperate climate of Bengaluru is about experiencing an Indian city that brims with bars, restaurants, clubs, and positive energy -- a great place for walking, window-shopping (many of the most design-savvy items found in Mumbai and Delhi originate in this city), lounging in al-fresco coffee shops, and letting your hair down -- at least till 11:30pm, after which the city more or less shuts down.

If you're an early riser, the one sight that is an absolute must, is a visit to the bustling City Market -- an absolute riot of colors, sights, smells, and sounds, with mounds of flowers (Bengaluru contributes to 70% of India's floral export) and fresh vegetables. The best time to visit is between 6 and 8am. Next off, set off for Bugle Hill, site of the Bull Temple (sanctum timings daily 7:30-11:30am and 4:30-8:30pm). Built by the city's original architect, Kempe Gowda, this 16th-century black-granite statue of Nandi (Shiva's sacred bull) literally dwarfs his "master," and is kept glistening by regular applications of coconut oil. Nearby is a Ganesha temple (Sri Dodda Ganapathi), which houses an enormous statue of the elephant-headed deity made of 100 kilos (220 lbs.) of rank-smelling butter. Apparently this idol is remade every 4 years, and the butter distributed to devotees as prasad (blessed food).

Cultural Activities

Check the local dailies for information about cultural events. Besides art exhibitions and traditional dance and music performances, Bengaluru draws major international artists, including pop and rock stars.

The violin-shaped auditorium known as Chowdaiah Memorial Hall (Gayathri Devi Park Extension, Vyalikaval; tel. 080/2344-5810) hosts regular classical music performances, as well as film, dance, and drama. Plays are regularly staged at Rabindra Kalakshetra (Jayachamarachendra Rd.; tel. 080/2222-1271), where you can also catch occasional art exhibitions. Numerous art galleries around the city host contemporary Indian art and other exhibitions. Venkatappa Art Gallery, attached to the Government Museum (Kasturba Rd.; tel. 080/2286-4483; Rs 10; Tues-Sun 10am-5pm), displays more than 600 paintings year-round. Karnataka Chitrakala Parishat (Art Complex, Kumara Krupa Rd.; tel. 080/2226-1816; www.chitrakalaparishath.org) has a varied collection of traditional paintings, leather puppets, and artifacts from all over Karnataka. Visit its various art studios and gallery spaces, the open-air theater, and (in particular) the Roerich and Kejriwal galleries. Featuring artists from around the globe, check out a New York based gallery Streisand Art (382, 100 Ft. Rd., Indiranagar; tel. 080/2520-3535; www.streisand-art.com). While GallerySKE (82, St. Mark's Rd.; tel. 080/2223-8312; www.galleryske.com) is a good place for alternative art, One Shanti Road (1, Shanti Rd., Shantinagar; tel. 080/2222-0236; www.1shanthiroad.com) is a nonprofit artist-led initiative, offering a great space and opportunity for across the globe interaction. Other than the many live acts around the city, the open-to-all Levis Jam takes place on the first Sunday of each month -- check www.freedomjam.net for details.

Nrityagram Dance Village (along the Bengaluru-Pune Hwy., 35km/22 miles from Bengaluru) is a renowned center for Indian dance training. Performances feature students as well as established artists. Organized tours of the facility include lecture-demonstrations designed to introduce you to Indian culture, life philosophy, and both kathak and odissi dance forms (tel. 080/2846-6313; www.nrityagram.org; tours Rs 20 per person; Tues-Sun 10am-5:30pm, dance classes 10:30am-1pm). A through-the-night dance and music festival is held in February; it attracts almost 30,000 spectators, so decent seating is at a premium.

Learn the "Art of Living" with India's Hot New Age Guru

Sri Sri Ravi Shankar, once a disciple of Maharishi Mahesh Yogi (renowned spiritual guide of the Beatles), is the subcontinent's hottest New Age guru -- many consider "The Art of Living," his nonsectarian philosophy of enjoying life for the moment, the perfect spiritual currency for our material times. His main ashram lies on 24 hectares (60 acres) of lush green hillside in south Bengaluru, where every evening thousands of the city's well heeled gather for the evening lecture and satsang (devotional singing). The articulate Sri Sri's appeal lies in the fact that he does not emphasize incarnation or abstinence, but encourages his disciples to enjoy the present without guilt while also encouraging them to contribute towards humanitarian and environmental concerns. His adherents -- predominantly from India's growing urban elite (including Kingfisher's Vijay Mallya, the "Branson of Bangalore"), but also hugely popular on foreign shores (apparently San Franciscans have a real penchant for his teachings) -- can go about their hectic lives and remain relatively apolitical yet feel good about not discarding all sense of religion and tradition.

A philosophy of convenience, some say, but even his fiercest detractors admit the value of sudarshan kriya, an ancient breathing technique taught when you attend the "Art of Living" course. The 30-minute-a-day practice is said to encourage the flow of oxygen to the whole body, ostensibly discouraging the storage of toxins and thus helping release anxiety, frustration, depression, and anger, leaving you with a genuine sense of calm and well-being.

To attend an evening session (at times with the guru himself) or an Art of Living course spread over several days, call ahead (21st Km, Kanakapura Main Rd., Udayapura, Bengaluru 560 082; tel. 080/2843-2273 or -2274; www.artofliving.org).

Rejuvenation City: Tiptop Spas

Prompted by the emergence of an overstressed, well-heeled workforce, Bengaluru has a number of well-known luxury and medical spas. SPA.ce (70, Cunningham Rd.; tel. 4132-7526; www.spacethespa.com; by appointment only), is a world-class stand-alone spa in the middle of the city that uses signature fragrances created by Ally Mathan. Of the hotel spas we recommend The Spa at Leela Palace Kempinski (tel. 080/2521-1234) and Jiva at Taj Residency; for more committed treatment programs, take a look at the following four luxury spas, all located about an hour outside Bengaluru. Aside from Shreyas, The Golden Palms Spa (tel. 080/2371-2222), owned by Bollywood director Sanjay Khan, is part of an upmarket resort that not only provides routine spa treatments, but is the spot for discreet cosmetic surgery and anti-aging treatments. The attitude toward pampering is more laid-back at the internationally affiliated Angsana Oasis Spa and Resort (tel. 080/2846-8893; www.angsana.com), offering spa packages from $825 for 2 nights (including taxes, meals, airport transfers, and a few treatments). Neither of these spas will restrict your diet or ban smoking or alcohol, and on weekends you can wholeheartedly tuck into their barbeque and grilled cuisine. In contrast, Soukya International Holistic Health Centre (in Whitefield, 30 min. from Bengaluru; tel. 080/2794-5001 through -5004; www.soukya.com) is a medical spa that focuses on therapeutic and complementary therapies. Run by Dr. Isaac Mathai, his nutritionist wife, Suja, and a battery of experts, this is a nonsmoking, alcohol- and meat-free spa where everything is low fat, low salt, low spice, and organic. The focus is on individually created "holistic wellness programs" (from Hawaiian hot stone to specialized Ayurvedic treatments) that strengthen the body's immune system, including those belonging to some rather famous people, like healthy-living guru Andrew Weil, Fergie, Princess of York, and Archbishop Desmond Tutu. (Note: If you are planning to continue to Goa from Karnataka, also take a look at Swaswara -- a yoga retreat on the northern tip of Karnataka's coast, bordering Goa.

You'll find the city's major shopping centers along and around M.G. Road, Commercial Street, and Brigade Road. M.G. Road is where you'll find the fixed-price tourist-oriented (no bargains or bargaining) Cauvery Arts and Crafts Emporium, Central Cottage Industries Emporium, and Karnataka State Silk Industries Emporium. Fabulous silks and home textiles, as well as contemporary silverware from Neemrana and traditional silver jewelry from Amrapali and Jaipur, are some of the highlights available in Shop Ananya, located next to the Hotel Sarovar at 9/1 Dhondusa Annexe, Richmond Circle (tel. 080/2299-8922). Mysore Saree Udyog (No. 294, first floor, Kamraj Rd, across from the entrance to Commercial St.; tel. 080/2558-3255) is also popular with Westerners for fabrics in gorgeous colors and textures. But for the real experience, head for the shops on Chikpet Main Road, and let your head swim as you sit on floor mattresses, with salesmen opening sari after sari. And if it's the gorgeous Indian jewelry that beckons, then look no further than the two oldest stores in Bengaluru, both of which were once patronized by the Mysore royalty -- C. Krishnaiah Chetty & Son (Commercial St.; tel. 080/2558-8731; www.ckcsons.com) and Ganjam Nagappa and Sons (Infantry Rd.; tel. 080/2226-1233). Little more down to earth is Srishti (100 Ft. Rd., Indiranagar; tel. 080/2521-0176; also at Leela Galleria) -- ask for their antique jewelry collection. Speaking of antiques and other collectibles in bronze, stone, teak, and silver, call on Natesan's Antiqarts (76 M.G. Rd.; tel. 080/2558-8344 or -7427). Pick up beautiful ethnic home accessories, rugs, and other gifts at The Bombay Store (99 EGK Prestige, M.G. Rd.; tel. 080/2532-0014 or -0015). With four levels of saris and salwar kameez (for women) and sherwanis (for men), and a nonstop clientele, you can understand why staff at Deepam Silk International insists that there is "nowhere else in the whole world" better to shop for silk garments (67 Bluemoon Complex, M.G. Rd.; tel. 080/2558-8760). He produces the largest share of beer in India, owns one of the most successful airlines, a Formula One team as well as an IPL cricket team, and now he's built the newest hotspot in town on a road named after his industrialist father -- UB City on Vittal Mallya Road, is Vijay Mallya's latest offering and although still incomplete, lures high-end shoppers to its massive chrome and glass designer stores like Goodearth, Canali, Dunhill London, just to name a few. Embassy Chambers and Embassy Classic (in the Lavelle and St. Mark's Rd. vicinity) are where you will find all the Indian designers like Rohit Bal, Rajesh Pratap Singh, Neeru Kumar, Manish Arora, Abraham and Thakore and Ffolio. And make sure you drop in at Cinnamon (11 Walton Rd., off Lavelle Rd.; tel. 080/2222-9794), which showcases some of India's best designers in this cool, stylish boutique. Getting its name from an enormous tree in its garden, Raintree (4 Sankey Rd., across from ITC Windsor Sheraton), an old colonial bungalow shared by several designers offers all kinds of accessories, clothes and furniture. Away from the hub is 100 Ft. Boutique (Indirangar; tel. 080/25277752), with its funky collections of everything from bags and lamps to offbeat furnishings -- the attached restaurant is an incentive to go there. It's somewhat of a drag through nightmarish traffic to get there (aside from 100 Ft. Boutique, the above recommendations are all manageable distances from each other) but the Leela Galleria (The Leela Palace Hotel, 23 Airport Rd.; tel. 033/2521-1234; www.theleela.com) boasts some of the hottest and biggest brands both from India and overseas, making window shopping a pleasure with live piano in the background and Barista at hand for a quick fix.

Swinging in the Hip City of Bengaluru

The following hip spots are all basically close enough to each other to paint the town red with a number of venues; just call a cab. Start (or end) with Park.hotel's i-BAR, still one of Bengaluru's most happening spots, particularly on frenetic Friday's, which are dedicated to Bollywood. Alternatively, head for 13th Floor (Ivory Tower Hotel; Barton Centre, M.G. Rd.; tel. 080/4178-3333; www.hotelivorytower.com; dress code for men), a sexy 120-seater rooftop cocktail lounge where you get a large dose of the Bengaluru skyline -- this is definitely the place to be if any day-night cricket matches are going on at the near-by Chinnaswamy Stadium, where everyone downs a few extras with every six hit, irrespective of which side scored -- to console or celebrate! Nearby, in a century-old stone building, is what once used to be part of the Blighty Tea Rooms, a popular British hangout, and now the location of the local Hard Rock Café (St. Mark's Rd.; tel. 080/4124-2222) with its "Love All, Serve All" motto, tons of memorabilia and great rock. Aside from i-BAR, a "must-do" is the stunning Taika (Church St.; tel. 080/4151-2828) with its summery look and totally chilled vibe; skip merrily between the two choices in hand -- Club Above, tapping to popular music, and Club Beyond with its special theme every night (single entry charge for both clubs). And of course no visit to Bengaluru would be complete without having a couple at Shiro (Third Floor, UB City Mall, VM Road. tel. 080/4173-8861) -- gigantic Buddha sculptures in an ultra-spacious roof top setting make it a winner visually, and with an 80s pop loop, hip crowd, and amazing fig mojitos, this is currently the flavor. NASA (1/A Church St.; tel. 080/2558-6512) is worth a giggle: Staff is decked out in pilot outfits, and the interior is like the inside of a sci-fi space module; the bar is called the "Fuel Tank" and the loo is known as the "Humanoid Disposal" area. It's good for an afternoon pint, but happy hours draw massive crowds. For mean metal and a crowd that likes to sing along, look no further than Purple Haze (M.G. Rd., near Richmond Circle; tel. 080/2221-3758; www.purplehaze.co.in). If you don't care much for a pub hop, then zero in to Kosmo (off Cunningham Rd.; tel. 080/41702030) with its three-in-one choice of seating -- the al-fresco Buddha Garden (cafe during the day), two bars and DJ's spinning at Music Lounge, and classy dining at the Terrace to the background of jazz and blues -- service however, is not good. At Fuga (No. 1 Castle St., Ashok Nagar; tel. 080/4147-8625 or 98-4524-7914; www.fuga.co.in), elegantly wasted would be the way to be, if one had to blend in -- it's got plush interiors, a mix of hip-hop, house, and club seeing the night through, great food, and a trendy, well-heeled crowd -- all at a whopping Rs 1,000 per couple. Not enough time for Goa? No worries -- head straight for the terrifically chilled out Opus (Vasanthanagar, tel. 080/2344-2580), for its Goan ambience, local live acts in an open amphitheater, and reasonable food; given its proximity to the prime venue for international gigs, it's perfect to pop in for a pre- or postconcert drink. On the other side of the fence, the Oberoi Hotel's smart Polo Club combines deep leather sofas with the ubiquitous TV sports entertainment. The last word in exclusivity goes however to Leela's Library Bar (tel. 080/2521-1234; www.theleela.com), for which you will pay dearly but come away feeling like an English Lord -- sink into a leather sofa, order a brandy, light up a cigar and leaf through a collectors item from the library.

It may be a bit muted during the week (which makes for romantic evenings), but come Saturday and Taj West End's Blue Bar set amid greens is all set to bring the house down -- well, in its own classy way of course. Liquid (Ista Hotel, Swami Vivekanada Rd.; tel. 080/2555-8888; www.istahotels.com) is also very popular for its candlelit alfresco bar with live music and indoor lounge for chilly evenings. And while Mumbai's Geoffrey's brings its English Pub atmosphere to Bengaluru (Royal Orchid, Airport Rd.; tel. 080/2520-5566), Dublin, the watering hole at the ITC Windsor Sheraton (tel. 080/2226-9898), serves -- yep, you guessed right -- an Irish pub vibe.

(Note: A strict no-smoking law has been put into place in all public areas.)