Shopping

Although Hyannis is undoubtedly the commercial center of the Cape, the stores you'll find there are fairly standard for the most part; you could probably find their ilk anywhere else in the country. It's in the wealthy enclaves west of Hyannis, and along the antiquated Old King's Highway (Rte. 6A) to the north, that you're likely to find the real gems. On weekends from late May to mid June, and daily from mid-June through September, arts enthusiasts may want to visit Harbor Your Arts, Ocean Street (along Hyannis Harbor; www.harboryourarts.com). In its seven artists' shacks, you can watch the artists at work and buy directly from them.

Antiques/Collectibles -- Of the hundreds of antiques shops scattered through the region, perhaps a dozen qualify as destinations for well-schooled collectors. Harden Studios, 3264 Rte. 6A (in the center of town), Barnstable Village (tel. 508/362-7711), is one. Owner Charles M. Harden used to supply to-the-trade-only dealers in the Boston Design Center. An architect by training, he renovated this antique house, built around 1720, to display his finds. Some items, such as primitive portraits and mourning embroidery, are all but extinct outside of museums. Other sturdy, serviceable pieces, such as Colonial corner cabinets and slant-top desks, are competitively priced, as are the antique Oriental carpets underfoot. An adjoining barn gallery features nature-centered works by area artists, including Harden's son, an accomplished etcher.

Arts & Crafts -- The caliber of the shows at the Cape Cod Art Association (CCAA), 3480 Rte. 6A (about 1/3 mile west of Hyannis Rd.), Barnstable (tel. 508/362-2909), may vary -- this is, after all, a nonprofit community venture -- but it's worth visiting just to see the skylit studios, designed by CCAA member Richard Sears Gallagher in 1972. Everyone raves about "Cape light," and here you'll see it used to optimal advantage. If the setting fires up artistic yearnings, inquire about classes and workshops, which are held year-round.

Ex-Nantucketer Bob Marks fashions the only authentic Nantucket lightship baskets crafted off-island; and as aficionados know, they don't come cheap (a mere handbag typically runs in the thousands). The other handmade furnishings found at Oak and Ivory, 1112 Main St. (about 1 mile south of Rte. 28), Osterville (tel. 508/428-9425), from woven throw rugs to pared-down neo-shaker furniture, fit the country-chic mode at more approachable prices.

At 374 Main St. in Hyannis, Red Fish, Blue Fish (tel. 508/775-8700) wins the funky-gallery award, hands down. Owner Jane Walsh makes jewelry in the front window, but inside this closetlike space, every inch is covered with something unusual and handmade. There is usually a teenager or two hanging out here.

Tao Water Art Gallery, 1989 Rte. 6A, West Barnstable (tel. 508/375-0428), is a former garage converted into a very Zen-like space. It features paintings by Chinese artists as well as museum reproductions of Chinese antiques and jade.

Richard Kiusalas and Steven Whittlesey salvage antique lumber and turn it into cupboards, tables, and chairs, among other things; old windows are retrofitted as mirrors. Most of the stock at West Barnstable Tables, 2454 Meetinghouse Way (off Rte. 149 near the intersection of Rte. 6A), West Barnstable (tel. 508/362-2676), looks freshly made, albeit with wood of unusually high quality. Pieces are priced accordingly: A dining-room set -- pine trestle table with six bow-back chairs -- runs more than $4,000. When the wood still bears interesting traces of its former life, it's turned into folk-art furniture.

Books & Ephemera -- Named for the revolutionary printer who helped foment the War of Independence, Isaiah Thomas Books & Prints, 4632 Falmouth Rd. (Rte. 28, near Rte. 130), Cotuit (tel. 508/428-2752), has a 60,000-volume collection, housed in an 1850 home. The shop is full of treasures, clustered by topic. Owner/expert James S. Visbeck is happy to show off his first editions, rare miniatures, and maps; you get the sense that sales are secondary to sheer bibliophilic pleasure.

You should be able to find just about any book you're looking for at the big chain bookstores, Borders, 990 Iyannough Rd. (Rte. 132), Hyannis (tel. 508/862-6363); and Barnes & Noble, 769 Iyannough Rd. (at the Cape Cod Mall on Rte. 132), Hyannis (tel. 508/862-6310).

Food -- Cape Cod Potato Chips, Breed's Hill Road (at Independence Way, off Rte. 132), Hyannis (tel. 508/775-7253), really are the world's best. Long a local favorite -- they're chunkier than the norm -- they originate right here. Free factory tours are offered Monday to Friday from 9am to 5pm in July and August. Call for off-season hours.

Home Decor -- As a Nantucket innkeeper whiling away the winter, Claire Murray took up hooking rugs and turned her knack into an international business. At Claire Murray, 867 Main St. (in the center of town), Osterville (tel. 508/420-3562), and at her store at 770 Rte. 6A in West Barnstable (tel. 508/375-0331), hobbyists can find all the fixings for various needle crafts, including kits, and advice as needed. Those of us with little time on our hands can just buy the finished goods, from sweaters and quilts to the signature folk-motif rugs.

Flowery pastels are the hallmark of Joan Peters, 885 Main St. (in the center of town), Osterville (tel. 508/428-3418), favored by the Town & Country set. She designs a wide array of compatible fabrics and ceramics -- right down to the bathroom sink, if need be -- so that it's easy to achieve a pervasive, light-splashed look that doesn't look too overtly matched and mixed.

Seafood -- The best place to buy fresh seafood in the vicinity of Hyannis is Cape Fish & Lobster at 406 W. Main St. in Centerville (tel. 508/771-1122). This is where the top restaurateurs in Hyannis get their seafood. The prices are reasonable, and the catch is the freshest in town.