Introduction to Belfast

For those who remember when Belfast was subsumed by violence and political unrest, it takes some mental gymnastics to think of it in terms of tourism. West Belfast might retain its religious divide, but today its political murals are a photo opportunity for visitors. Revamped Victorian buildings suggest Belfast's 19th-century grandeur, while contemporary arts centers grow in reputation. It's on the streets, though, where the change is most apparent. The checkpoints are long gone, replaced by fashionable boutiques, continental-style cafes and modern Irish restaurants.

Things to Do

Hop on a Belfast City Sightseeing bus, which passes the towering yellow cranes of the Titanic Quarter before cruising along the Shankill and Falls roads, made notorious during The Troubles. Back on foot, you can explore the best of Victorian Belfast City Center from the domed City Hall to the oldest part of the city, Cathedral Quarter, so named for St. Anne's Church. Then turn south to take in the four-story Ulster Museum's city history, arts and natural exhibits.

Nightlife and Entertainment

Slip down a city center entry, or alley, for creamy Guinness and traditional music or poetry in Belfast's oldest pubs. Aperitifs are the beverage accessory of choice in a fashionable bar overlooking Donegall Square. You can stop for a pint at the elaborately tiled Crown Liquor Saloon before taking in a classical concert at the Waterfront Hall. Younger crowds bar-hop along Botanic Avenue, catch major name bands at Ulster Hall and dance late at retro Limelight.

Restaurants and Dining

Join locals in a Botanic Avenue cafe for a hefty Ulster fry of bacon, eggs, tomato, black pudding, fried soda bread and potato bread, or croissants and cappuccinos in the new breed of continental cafes. Modern Irish restaurants on Dublin and Lisburn roads serve up reinvented classics like venison with a red wine jus, or Portavogie haddock on champ (potato-and-spring onion) with poached egg and béchamel sauce. Victoria Square offers quick international options from Portuguese char-grilled chicken to gourmet burgers.

Relaxation

Quiet Sunday mornings are made for sipping coffee in a Stranmillis cafe. Cycling along the shaded towpath through Lagan Valley Regional Park in South Belfast is popular; stop and smell the rose garden at Sir Thomas and Lady Dixon Park. The top of Cave Hill offers peace, relaxation and panoramic views of Belfast Lough and the City Center. On a clear day, you might see the sun setting to the west.