Side Trips

Carrickfergus

19km (12 miles) NE of Belfast

Just outside Belfast off the M3 motorway, the castle town of Carrickfergus offers a nice break from the hustle and bustle of the city, and some fresh sea air. Locals like to say that Carrickfergus was thriving when Belfast was a sandbank, and looking around its winding medieval streets at the edge of the sea, it's easy to believe. In 1180 John de Courcy, a Norman, built a massive keep at Carrickfergus, the first real Irish castle, to guard the approach to the strategically critical Belfast Lough. Even today, although the town spreads for several miles in each direction along the shore, the huge, forbidding castle is still its center. The narrow streets across from the castle follow the historic winding pattern of medieval roads, and you can still find some of the old city walls.

Stop into the Carrickfergus Tourist Information Office, Heritage Plaza, Antrim Street, Carrickfergus, County Antrim (tel. 028/9336-6455). It's open all year Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm.

Joining the National Trust -- Several of Ulster's best sites are managed by the National Trust, a non-profit organization that preserves historic buildings and areas of natural beauty across the U.K. (including Northern Ireland) and keeps them accessible to the public. Although admission to National Trust sites is usually just a few euro, taking out a yearly membership gives you unlimited free admission to all of them, which can represent a saving if you plan to visit more than just one or two. If you also happen to be visiting Britain on your trip -- or within the same year -- it could be a wise investment. The current membership costs are £48 for individuals; £80 for couples and £82 for families. You can sign up for membership at any National Trust property, or join in advance online at www.nationaltrust.org.uk. Alternatively, American visitors can join the U.S. wing of the National Trust, the Royal Oak Foundation. Call tel. 212/480-2889 or visit www.royal-oak.org for more information.

Cultra

11km (6 3/4 miles) E of Belfast

Downpatrick

37km (23 miles) SE of Belfast

The charming town of Downpatrick is closely identified with St. Patrick. Legend has it that when Patrick came to Ireland in A.D. 432 to begin his missionary work, strong winds blew his boat here. He'd meant to sail up the coast to County Antrim, where as a young slave he had tended flocks on Slemish Mountain. Instead, he settled here and converted the local chieftain Dichu and his followers to Christianity. Over the next 30 years, Patrick roamed through Ireland carrying out his work, but this is where he died, and some believe he is buried in the graveyard of Downpatrick Cathedral, although there's no proof. Because of all of this, the town tends to be crowded, largely with Catholic pilgrims, around St. Patrick's Day, but the constant activities and religious fervor are worth witnessing.

For information in the Down District, stop into the St. Patrick Visitor Centre, 53A Market St., Downpatrick, County Down (tel. 028/4461-2233). It's open October to March Monday to Saturday 10am to 5pm; April to September, hours are Monday to Saturday 9:30am to 6pm and Sunday 1 to 6pm. A "St. Patrick's Country" bus tour is offered according to demand and can be booked through this office.

Lisburn

16km (10 miles) SE of Belfast

There's a nice museum in this small town a short distance from Belfast.

Lough Neagh

16km (10 miles) W of Belfast

Lough Neagh, at 396 sq. km (153 sq. miles), is the largest lake in the 6,000 or so islands in the British Isles. Ancient Irish lore maintains the lake was created by the mighty giant Fionn MacCumhail (Finn McCool) when he flung a chunk of earth into the sea to create the Isle of Man. But before you think about taking a dip, consider this: The lake's claim to fame is its eels. Yep, the waters are positively infested with the slimy creatures. Hundreds of tons of eels are taken from Lough Neagh and exported each year, mainly to Germany and Holland. The ages-old eel-extraction method involves "long lines," baited with up to 100 hooks. As many as 200 boats trailing these lines are on the lake each night (the best time to go fishing for eels). So, maybe take a rain check on that swim.

If you're not entirely creeped out by that, however, you can take a boat trip on the lovely lake. Boats depart regularly from the nearby Kinnego Marina (tel. 028/3832-7573), signposted from the main road. They last about 45 minutes and cost about £10 for adults, £7 for children.

County Armagh

65km (40 miles) SW of Belfast

County Armagh is a green rolling stretch of gentle hills and small villages. It is also one of Northern Ireland's most rebellious Republican regions -- there are police watchtowers atop some hills, occasional barracks (mostly empty these days), and until a couple of years ago, you could expect to hear the rhythmic thumping of military helicopters flying over.

Armagh is also the county where, in March 2009, the peace in Northern Ireland was sorely tested when a Catholic policeman was murdered by members of an IRA splinter group. Shortly afterwards, two British soldiers were shot outside their barracks while paying for a pizza delivery. Thankfully, this didn't lead to the sort of tit-for-tat retaliation seen in the past -- and condemnation was loud from all sides -- but it does point to the fact that very real tensions still exist under the surface here. Peace or no peace, you'll certainly notice that sectarian graffiti is omnipresent. That said, however, remember that none of this is directed at visitors. There's no reason to avoid this scenic, forested county.

Small and manageable Armagh City is a handsome cathedral city. Its name, from the Irish ard Macha (Macha's height) refers to the pagan queen Macha who is said to have built a fortress here. It's no coincidence that St. Patrick chose to base himself here when he was spreading Christianity -- it was a bold challenge to the native paganism. The simple stone church that he built in the 5th century is now the giant Church of Ireland cathedral -- clearly, his plan worked, at least to some extent. There are actually two St. Patrick cathedrals in Armagh City -- one Catholic and one Protestant -- and each is the seat of its primate.

The town has the kind of dignity you might expect in a seat of religion, with grand public buildings, huge churches, and big Georgian town houses along the Mall. Buildings, doorsteps, and sidewalks are made of delightful pink, yellow, and red local limestone that make the city glow even on a dull day.

Stop into the Armagh Tourist Information Centre, the Old Bank Building, 40 Upper English St., Armagh (tel. 028/3752-1800). It's open all year, Monday to Saturday 9am to 5pm and Sunday 2 to 5pm.

A short distance outside the city, the small town of Bessbrook has historic cottages, the forests of Slieve Gullion, and ancient Navan Fort, the most important archaeological site in Ulster.