Nightlife

Belfast has a plethora of historic pubs where the crowds tend to be local and friendly, but the big news here in recent years has been its fast-growing new generation of hip modern bars geared at the young and trendy. The late-night places are mostly clustered in the University Quarter, while the pubs are spread around town. If you're drawn to traditional pubs, several of the best are hidden away in the pedestrian lanes off Donegall Place.

Pub hours are Monday to Saturday from 11:30am to 11pm and Sunday from 12:30 to 2:30pm and from 7 to 10pm. Bars stay open later, and nightclubs tend not to get busy until after the pubs close; admission ranges from £3 to £10 ($6-$19).

The Performing Arts

For up-to-date listings of shows and concerts, there are several sources. That's Entertainment is free and widely available at tourist offices and pubs, as are the Big List and Artslink. There's always the Belfast Daily Telegraph and the Irish News. You could also try www.gotobelfast.com and www.belfast.net.

With its distinctive bronze dome, the Waterfront Hall dominates the Lagan skyline (Oxford St., Laganside; tel. 028/9033-4455 for credit card reservations, or 028/9033-4400 for program information; www.waterfront.co.uk). The state-of-the-art conference center and concert venue attracts international performers. On the Golden Mile near the Europa Hotel, the Grand Opera House first opened its doors in 1895. A central part of Belfast's cultural scene, it offers the finest opera, drama, and musicals in town (Great Victoria St.; tel. 028/9024-1919; www.goh.co.uk). The Ulster Hall hosts touring music groups, comedy, and drama, and is home to the Ulster Orchestra (Bedford St.; tel. 028/9032-3900; www.ulsterhall.co.uk). The Odyssey is the latest addition to the city's crowded performing arts roster. The massive complex on the waterfront has a 10,000-seat arena where touring rock groups from Oasis to Destiny's Child have performed. The complex also holds dozens of restaurants and bars, so there's plenty to keep you busy before the show (2 Queen's Quay; tel. 028/9073-9074; www.odysseyarena.com).

Theaters include the Lyric Theatre (Ridgeway St.; tel. 028/9038-1081; www.lyrictheatre.co.uk) for new plays by Irish and international playwrights; and the Group Theatre, part of Ulster Hall on Bedford Street (tel. 028/9032-9685), for performances by local drama societies.

For stand-up comedy, head for the basement of the Empire Music Hall, 42 Botanic (tel. 028/9032-8110). It's home every Tuesday at 9pm to The Empire Laughs Back. If you'd rather sit down than stand up, get there at least an hour early.

Tickets, which cost £8 to £30 ($15-$57) for most events, can be purchased in advance from the Virgin Ticket Shop, Castle Court, Belfast (tel. 028/9032-3744), or online at www.ticketmaster.ie. (You can always arrange to have tickets purchased online delivered to your hotel.)

The Gay & Lesbian Scene

The gay and lesbian scene in Belfast is very low-key and always has been. The handful of gay pubs and bars are generally friendly places, though, once you've been around a bit and people recognize you, you'll find a welcome. The scene is getting more cosmopolitan all the time.

Widely viewed as the heart of the scene is Kremlin (Donegall St., tel. 1232/809-700; www.kremlin-belfast.com), a clever, Soviet-themed bar open 7 nights a week but best known for its Saturday-night party "Revolution." The gay scene goes public each year in late July/early August for Belfast's small but enthusiastic Pride celebration (www.belfastpride.com). For general information about GLBT life in Belfast check out the Gay Belfast website (www.gaybelfast.net), or search for Northern Ireland on the Gay Ireland website (www.gay-ireland.com).