Getting Around

Getting around Bolivia is often unpleasant. Only about 5% of all the roads in the country are paved. Flying is a much better option, but flights are often canceled and schedules change with little warning.

By Plane

Traveling by plane is my preferred method of travel in Bolivia. Flights aren't too expensive ($55-$100), and because the roads are so bad in Bolivia, it's really worthwhile to spend the extra money to fly. Additionally, if you take a plane instead of a bus, you will save at least 12 hours in travel time. On the minus side, air travel in Bolivia is not terribly reliable -- schedules change all the time. It is imperative that you reconfirm your flight, or you might miss it (and the next departing flight might not leave for another 27 hours!).

Lloyd Aéreo Boliviano (LAB), Camacho 1460, La Paz (tel. 0800-4321; www.labairlines.com), is the major air carrier in Bolivia. Lloyd, as it is informally known, offers flights throughout the country. You can buy a LABPASS, which allows you to fly to four different destinations anywhere in Bolivia. You can only purchase the pass outside of Bolivia; it costs $220 if you fly to Bolivia on LAB, $260 if you arrive on a different carrier. However, because internal flights are relatively inexpensive ($55-$100 each way), you may find that it's not worth it to buy the LABPASS.

Aero Sur, Av. 16 de Julio 1616, La Paz (tel. 0102/2312-244; www.aerosur.com), is the second-largest airline in Bolivia. Its schedules are more limited, but prices are similar to LAB.

Both LAB and Aero Sur fly a fleet of aging Boeing 727s (some built in the early 1960s), and I must warn you that these flights are not for the faint of heart. You must be an adventurer and love to fly to bear the trip. Delays abound and landings are harrowing as the thin air and short runways usually dictate a fast approach.

By Bus

Traveling by bus in Bolivia has its charms, including economical bus fares and riding with the real people of Bolivia. (You may even have the opportunity to sit next to live chickens.) But overall, buses are horribly slow and uncomfortable. Most buses don't have bathrooms, and bus drivers don't like to stop along their route -- some 12-hour bus rides will only make two (!) bathroom stops during the entire journey. Buses are often terribly crowded because most drivers will pick up anyone who needs a ride, regardless of how much space is left on the bus. Passengers sit on the floor, and then more passengers sit on their laps. Also, beware of strapping your bags to the top of buses since you might lose them along the way. One other thought: 95% of the roads in Bolivia are unpaved, which means that 100-mile journeys can take more than 12 hours.

Overall, if you have a lot of time and not much money, the buses in Bolivia are perfectly adequate. If you're traveling on an overnight bus, I highly recommend splurging for the bus cama (buses where the seats recline enough to almost resemble a bed). Bus camas usually only cost $2 to $3 more than the regular bus. Most bus companies offer very similar services. One of the most reputable companies is Flota Copacabana (tel. 0102/2281-596). Note that in the rainy season from October through April, some roads may become impassable.

By Car

In Bolivia, there are 49,311km (30,573 miles) of highway. Guess how many of those are paved? About 2,496km (1,548 miles). That's it. For the other 46,815km (29,025 miles), you're stuck on some of the bumpiest and most poorly maintained roads in the world. Additionally, there are no signs anywhere, so it's quite easy to get lost. If you decide to be adventurous and explore Bolivia by car, be sure to rent a 4X4. You'll definitely need it, especially in the rainy season (Oct-Apr), when most of the roads turn to mud.

There are no car-rental agencies at the La Paz airport. Instead, when you reserve a car, you can request it to be delivered right to your door or to the airport. Localiza Rent A Car (tel. 0800/2050; www.localiza.com) is one of the largest car-rental companies in the country. International Rent A Car has offices in La Paz (tel. 0107/1530-432) on Calle Federico Zuazo 1942, Cochabamba (tel. 0107/1720-091), and in Santa Cruz (tel. 0103/3344-425). Hertz also has offices in La Paz (tel. 0102/2772-929), Santa Cruz (tel. 0103/3336-010), and Cochabamba (tel. 0104/4450-081). The rate for 4X4 vehicles ranges from $45 to $82 per day, including insurance. To rent a car in Bolivia, you must be at least 21 and have a valid driver's license and a passport.