In One Day

A single day affords the opportunity to sample some experiences unique to Boston. You won't have time for full immersion, but you can touch on several singular attractions and destinations. Your focus will be the downtown area, home to the city's oldest and most historic neighborhoods. Start: Boston Common (Red or Green Line to Park Street), 15 State St. (Green or Blue Line to State), or Faneuil Hall (Green or Blue Line to Government Center).

One Singular Sensation -- On a 1-day visit, consider concentrating on just one or two things you're most excited about, plus a good meal or two. If what really gets you going is the Museum of Fine Arts, the Museum of Science, the Newbury Street art galleries, or even a day trip, you have a good excuse for not doing more -- and for a return trip to Boston!

1. The Freedom Trail

Boston's signature attraction is a 2 1/2-mile line of red paint or brick laid out at the suggestion of a local journalist in 1958. Following the whole Freedom Trail can take the better part of a day, but several options that concentrate on the downtown part of the walk take 2 hours or so. Your goal is to cover -- at whatever pace suits you, as carefully or as casually as you like -- the first two-thirds of the trail, from Boston Common through Faneuil Hall. Start at the Boston Common Visitor Information Center with a pamphlet describing the self-guided tour or with the audio tour available for rental from the Freedom Trail Foundation. If you prefer a guided tour, check the schedule of tours with National Park Service rangers, Boston By Foot, and the Freedom Trail Foundation.

2. Retail Therapy

The legendary Filene's Basement will likely be closed during your visit (for building construction not slated to end until 2009), but Downtown Crossing is still worth checking out; see chapter 9 for pointers. You can fit in a visit before, after, or even (this can be our little secret) during your sightseeing.

3. Take a Break -- Faneuil Hall Marketplace

Giving new meaning to the term "one-stop shopping," Faneuil Hall Marketplace (tel. 617/523-1300), between North, Congress, and State streets and Atlantic Avenue, encompasses a Freedom Trail stop (the original Faneuil Hall), retail outlets galore, numerous restaurants and bars, and tons of picnic possibilities. The main level of Quincy Market is a gigantic food court. You can eat at the marketplace, but I suggest crossing Atlantic Avenue and enjoying your snack or lunch with a glorious view. Stake out a seat overlooking the marina next to Christopher Columbus Waterfront Park (next to the Marriott, on the side opposite the New England Aquarium). If you'd rather eat indoors, head to Durgin-Park, 340 Faneuil Hall Marketplace (tel. 617/227-2038), or across the street to Ye Olde Union Oyster House [ST], 41 Union St. (tel. 617/227-2750).

4. Paul Revere House

My favorite Freedom Trail stop is a little 17th-century home overlooking a picturesque cobblestone square.

5. The North End

The Freedom Trail continues here with another famous Paul Revere hangout, the fascinating Old North Church. But there's more to this historic neighborhood than just history. The city's "Little Italy" (locals don't actually call it that) is a great place for wandering around.

6. Take a Break -- Hanover Street

Coffee outlets throughout the city valiantly attempt to serve good espresso and cappuccino; the shops here always succeed -- and if they don't, they don't stay in business very long. Pair your caffeine with a fresh-baked pastry, settle in at a bakery or caffè, and take in the scene on the North End's main drag. Top choices: Mike's Pastry, 300 Hanover St. (tel. 617/742-3050); Caffè Vittoria, 296 Hanover St. (tel. 617/227-7606); and Caffè dello Sport, 308 Hanover St. (tel. 617/523-5063).

7. The Waterfront

Here's where downtown Boston's small size really pays off: In almost any direction, the gorgeous harbor is a short stroll from the North End. As the day winds down, you can take a sightseeing cruise from Long Wharf or Rowes Wharf or just a ferry ride from Long Wharf to Charlestown and back. If cruises aren't for you or are out of season, explore the New England Aquarium or the Children's Museum.

Or -- it's not the Waterfront, but bear with me -- abandon the sightseeing after the Paul Revere House and go shopping on Newbury Street.

Finally, head back to the hotel to wash off the grime of the day, then pick something fun from our suggested evening itineraries.