Locke-Ober

Frommer's Review

"Locke's" is the traditional Boston restaurant, a power-broker favorite since 1875. It changed hands (famed Boston restaurateur Lydia Shire bought it) and underwent a refurbishment in 2001, but that was just cosmetic: it still feels like a time machine. In an alley off the Winter Street pedestrian mall, the wood-paneled restaurant entertainingly evokes a Waspy men's club. The long, mirrored downstairs bar dates from 1880, and the service is 19th-century-style courtly.

The food deftly combines the old-fashioned with the contemporary. Traditional fish cakes come with new-fangled jasmine rice, salmon is "dusted" with black smoked sea salt, and delectable scalloped potatoes accompany the signature roast beef hash. Other traditions, including excellent steaks and chops, Wiener schnitzel a la Holstein, and broiled scrod with brown bread, endure. So does Locke-Ober, an "only in Boston" experience if ever there was one.

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