The Helmand

The Helmand, named for the region and river in Afghanistan, is low-profile yet always crowded. The elegant setting near the CambridgeSide Galleria mall belies the reasonable prices. Afghan food has elements of Middle Eastern, Indian, and Pakistani cuisine, with many vegetarian options; meat is often one element rather than the centerpiece of a dish. To start, try baked pumpkin topped with spicy ground meat sauce or aushak, "Afghan ravioli" filled with leeks or potatoes with a sauce of either meat or split peas and carrots. The grilled entrees are fine, but I prefer homier dishes such as a larger portion of those irresistible aushak or kourma challow, an excellent mélange of lamb, potatoes, onion, tomatoes, and green beans. Every meal comes with fluffy bread made fresh in the wood-fired brick oven. Service could be more attentive, but with food this good, that's a minor quibble.

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