Redbones

Geographically, this raucous restaurant is in Somerville, but in spirit it's on a Southern back road. Barbecued ribs (Memphis-, Texas-, and Arkansas-style), smoked beef brisket, fried Louisiana catfish, and grilled chicken come with traditional side dishes such as coleslaw and beans. The chummy staff can help you choose sweet, hot, mild, or vinegar sauce. The best non-barbecue dish is succulent buffalo shrimp, swimming in hot sauce. Portions are large, so pace yourself. Don't miss the appetizers and sides -- catfish "catfingers," succotash, corn pudding, and collard greens, just to name a few; if you're with enough other people, the appetizer samplers are a good deal. The only less-than-tasty dish I've ever had here was watery broccoli. The beer selection is huge, and there's valet bike parking. Given a choice, sit upstairs -- Underbones, downstairs, is a noisy bar.

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