Grill 23 & Bar

The best steakhouse in town, Grill 23 is a wood-paneled, glass-walled place with a businesslike air. A briefcase-toting crowd fills its two levels -- the dining rooms get very noisy -- and chows down on traditional slabs of beef and chops, traditional steakhouse side dishes, and sophisticated yet traditional desserts. The meat is of the highest quality, humanely raised and expertly prepared. Steak au poivre and lamb chops are perfectly grilled, crusty, juicy, and tender. Fish dishes aren't quite as memorable as the meat offerings, but hey, it's a steakhouse. The bountiful a la carte sides include out-of-this-world mashed potatoes, mushrooms with pesto, and "Tater Tots." Desserts are toothsome but (this is not your father's steakhouse) don't always include cheesecake. The service is exactly right for the setting, helpful but not familiar.

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