Buddha's Delight

Frommer's Review

Fresh and healthy intersect with cheap and filling at this busy restaurant. Brave the run-down stairwell, ask for a table near the window, and be ready to experiment. The menu lists "chicken," "shrimp," "pork," and even "lobster" -- in quotes because the kitchen doesn't use meat, poultry, fish, or dairy (some beverages have condensed milk). The chefs fry and barbecue tofu and gluten into more-than-reasonable facsimiles using techniques owner Cuong Van Tran learned from Buddhist monks in a temple outside Los Angeles. Between trying to figure out how they do it and savoring Vietnamese cuisine's strong, clear flavors, you might not miss your usual protein. To start, try fried "pork" dumplings or a delectable salad. Move on to "shrimp" with rice noodles, any of the house specialties, or excellent chow fun.

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