Orinoco

Little Orinoco is a magnet for adventurous diners. The intensely flavorful food isn't necessarily spicy, but it's complex and satisfying. To start, try a delectable arepa -- a corn patty stuffed with meat, cheese, or both, then grilled -- or an empanada (I like the verde version, enclosing a savory mushroom mixture). The signature main course is pabellón criollo, the national dish of black beans and rice, which Venezuelans serve with shredded beef and plantains. The lunch menu includes salads and sandwiches; the dinner specials change regularly, and if you're lucky, your meal will coincide with beef tenderloin churrasquito (with crab picadillo and salsa chimi). Portions are generous, and sauces inventive and flavorful. If you can't get here for lunch, when it's less crowded than at dinner, consider arriving shortly after 6pm to avoid a long wait. Heading to the Brookline location is no shortcut -- it's larger but equally crowded.

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