If you just want to wander around looking for a restaurant, head for Str. Episcopiei, where the streets are lined with cafes and restaurants, including the charming Bistro Atheneu. A short stroll from here is Byblos, Nicolae Golescu 14-16 (tel. 021/313-2091; www.byblos.uv.ro), a smart place to grab a drink and light lunch, like pizza, panini, bruschetta, and salad (including the delectable Byblos Salad -- spinach leaves, pine-nut kernels, and Parmesan in a garlicky olive-oil dressing); at night Byblos is one of the city's more reliably classy dining venues, with reliably priced Italian fare.
A Primer for Wine Lovers -- Romania's best winegrowing regions are Dogrogea and Oltenia, a part of Wallachia. A good everyday red is Feteasca Neagra, from the Banat's Val Duna region; similar to shiraz, it has the taste of dry, spicy plums. The La Cetate merlot is a reliable variety from Oltenia region; there's a hint of honey on the palate, accompanied by a lively, ripe tartness. But, if you really want to impress your sommelier, ask for a bottle of Romania's very best red, a cabernet sauvignon called La Catate Tezaur (or "treasure"); it's remarkably light despite being a big, robust, full-bodied wine. The 2002 is an exceptional vintage.
Expensive -- For upmarket Romanian fare, many locals with fat wallets (not to mention the grinning concierge at the ultrapricey Hilton) swear by Locanta Jaristea, Calea George Georgescu 52 (tel. 021/335-3338), a fine option if you're looking to splurge in the vicinity of the Parliamentary Palace. You'll dine in wonderfully decorous, traditional surroundings, with the knowledge that a meal here is accompanied by the sharpest service.
