Things To Do in Bucharest

City Tours & Guided Walks

For a personalized -- and wonderfully personal -- tour of the city (ideally followed by destinations farther afield), contact Medieval Tours (tel. 0721-261-323; www.medievaltours.ro); Eduard Popescu will show you the major sights and reward you with an insider's history and perspective. Cultural Travel & Tours (tel. 021/336-3163; www.cttours.ro) offers exactly what the name suggests. Tours of Bucharest start at 34€ ($43) per person (with at least two people sharing), and you can also arrange guided tours of any part of the country. Also offering personalized, culturally geared itineraries is the Cultural Tourism Institute, RoCultours; Str. Grigore Alexandrescu 108 (tel. 021/650-8145; www.rotravel.com/cti), worth contacting in advance of your arrival.

Outlying Attractions

The majority of top attractions are located in the center of Bucharest, most of which can be covered on foot, but Bucharest's gems are not contained by its downtown heart. Marking the northern border of our sightseeing recommendations is Bucharest's very own Arcul de Triumf (Arch of Triumph) -- if you haven't see it on your way from the airport, catch a cab to look at the 23m (70-ft.) archway (originally erected in 1922 to celebrate the outcome of World War I, and rebuilt in 1935), then head back into the city along leafy Soseaua Kiseleff -- parading through a mansion-filled upmarket residential neighborhood, lined with embassies, alighting in Piata Victoriei, more or less in the center of the city, where Soseaua Kiseleff becomes Calea Victoriei, a lengthy concourse that continues south toward the Centru Civic, which marks the southern boundary of our sightseeing radius. This is where Ceausescu's mad folly sought to reshape Bucharest entirely in drab concrete. Inspired by a trip to Communist Korea, he planned to outsize the Champs Elysee with a broad boulevard, and at its southern end, the infamous Parliamentary Palace (Casa Populurui) dominates the skyline, while its main balcony looks east, toward Piata Unirii, the city's very own characterless version of Times Square, with the huge Unirea Department Store.

Central & "Downtown" Bucharest

Kick off your tour (or end it) in the Lipscani district, the historic heart of Bucharest -- thankfully ignored by Ceausescu, the area is experiencing a steady (if longwinded) revival with trendy cafes, smart restaurants, and mammoth projects set to restore some of the city's most appealing architecture. Pedestrianized Lipscani Street and nearby Covaci Street are the main arteries of this district, but explore the side streets and you'll come across hidden treasures: antiques stores, fashionable boutiques, and hidden courtyards, not to mention a burgeoning party atmosphere and the lovely Stavropoleos church . Sadly, you'll note that scores of buildings here are deemed unsafe -- and likely to collapse in the event of an earthquake -- and have been marked with big round warning signs. You're best off not venturing inside these.

From Lipscani you should turn north into Calea Victoriei, the long concourse that cuts through the center, along which most of this area's top attractions are ranged; unless of course you're a history buff, in which case you might want to turn south to visit the National History Museum at Calea Victoriei 12, though the grand facade of the former post office headquarters -- a grand neoclassical monument built from 1894 to 1900 -- conceals a rather stultifying collection of historical artifacts that is only engaging in parts (www.mnir.ro; admission L7/$3/£1.85; Wed-Sun 10am-6pm). From here you continue north along Calea Victoriei to get to Bucharest's real heart, the place where -- for millions of Romanians -- reality and history changed forever at Revolution Square.

While it's always busy in some way or another, the space (which runs into George Enescu Sq.) somehow retains a somber, reluctant mood, as if the memory of what happened in 1989 still lingers, when Ceausescu gave his last speech to an angry crowd from the balcony of the Communist Party Central Committee building before ordering soldiers to open fire and fleeing in his helicopter. Here, a headless statue commemorates heroes lost to the revolution, and nearby is the early-18th-century Cretulescu Church. To the far north of the square is one of the city's landmark hotels, the Athénée Palace Hilton; also looking onto the square are the Ateneul Roman and National Museum of Art .

Some distance north along Victoriei, it's worth the effort (manageable on foot) to get to the little-visited Muzeul National George Enescu, Calea Victoriei 141 (tel. 021/659-6365; admission L4/$1.70/£1.05; Tues-Sun 10am-5pm). Amongst the most beautiful buildings in Bucharest, this superb Secessionist mansion was built in 1905 for Bucharest's then-wealthiest landowner, Gerge Cantacuzino. The entrance is flanked by sculpted lions and the interior -- all stucco, polished wood, cherubs, and trumpeters -- is now filled with personal artifacts of the country's greatest composer, as well as some of Enescu's valuable scores.

Taking a Breather in the Big City -- Bucharest has a number of lovely parks offering a few simple distractions from the mayhem of city life. Slap-bang in the center are the Cismigiu Gardens (between B-dul Regina Elisabeta, Calea Victoriei, Str. Stirbei Voda and B-dul Schitu Magureanu), developed in the mid-1800s when indigenous Romanian flora was collected along with exotic varieties from Vienna. Hire a boat and row yourself around the miniature lake, or grab a table under one of the Heineken-sponsored umbrellas at Ristorante Debarcader Cismigiu (tel. 021/25-8479), where the food is expensive, but the views are free.

Keep your eyes open on the streets; on the steps of old monuments and around inner city sidewalks (particularly near University Sq.), you'll spot casual traders selling collectibles, including books and old Romanian LP records. You can also browse for bargains at shops beneath the city surface in its subways.

Art, Antiques & Collectibles

Antiques lovers can have a lot of fun poking through Bucharest's innumerable antichitati stores. Typically, you'll find a mix of furniture, ornaments, knickknacks, and artworks that vary dramatically in value. You'll come across items that were salvaged during the Communist era, when homes and neighborhoods were destroyed, or things that have been kept in basements out of harm's way for decades. Start at Hanul cu Tei, Str. Blanari 5-7 (tel. 021/313-0181; www.hanulcutei.ro; Mon-Fri 10am-7pm, Sat 10am-2pm), an arcade in the heart of the Lipscani District; there are a range of stores and an extensive selection of artworks. Around here, you've every chance of finding street traders with something worthwhile to sell (old coins, fascinating prints, and unusual antique items). Also in the Lipscani area, you can admire antique furniture as well as smaller decorative items at European Heritage, Covaci St 19 (tel. 021/315-9537; www.european-heritage.ro; Mon-Sat 10am-7pm, Sun noon-5pm). Stefan Vezure sells bronzes, porcelain, paintings, and sculptures as well as religious icons from his store, Stef Art, Str. Buzesti 19 (tel. 0720/32-7338).

For paintings, rare maps, and manuscripts, as well as antique photographs, visit Galeria de Arta Zambaccian, Str. Blanari 12 (tel. 021/315-3485). If you'd like to visit an artist's studio, try Iuliana Vîlsan, Lascar Catargiu 45 (tel. 0722/69-2892; www.iuliana-vilsan.net), but call first to make an appointment. At Atmosphere Deco, Str. Eremia Grigorescu 5, you'll find smart antiques, paintings, and decorative trifles. Calea Victoriei can also be good for art purchases; you could pick up an interesting canvas or two at Galateea, Calea Victoriei 132 (tel. 021/317-3814), a contemporary space hosting provocative exhibitions with work for sale. Nearby, the Nemtoi Gallery (tel. 021/312-9800) carries extraordinary glass sculptures by Ioan Nemtoi, who enjoys an international reputation.

Books

Anthony Frost, Calea Victoriei 45 (tel. 021/311-5138) is Bucharest's first proper English bookstore, located just off Revolution Square. Carturesti is a fabulous bookstore chain with the best music collection in the city; head straight for the branch located on Strada Pictor Arthur Verona (tel. 021/317-3459; info@carturesi.ro). You'll find brilliant art books, coffee-table glossies, and also the most relaxingly atmospheric tea shop in town.

Also worth browsing is Libraria Noi, B-dul Nicolae Balecescu 18 (tel. 021/311-0700; www.librarianoi.ro), which is well stocked (with an extensive range of English books, including fashionable publications about Romania). You can also buy DVDs and CDs here (admittedly the selection is limited), but the real find is the little side-outlet with old maps, out-of-date prints, and lithographs, which you can paw through to discover that something special.

Fashion

For all sorts of upmarket retail therapy, head for Calea Victoriei, where you'll find Hugo Boss, Stefanel, and Guess, next door to which is Catwalk, a stunning shoe boutique. Directly across the road from these, is Musette with fabulous ladies' shoes and accessories, and nearby Man & Manetti is an exclusive menswear store. The most fun clothing store we've come across in Bucharest is ummagumma (tel. 0751/180180; www.ummagumma.ro), tucked away in a small arcade at Calea Victoriei 122; owner Oana-Maria Toma stocks innovative, imaginative garments for young women and most of the designers are Romanian.

Souvenirs & Handicrafts

Rather pricey souvenirs and books can be purchased from this small shop at the end of your tour of the Cotroceni Palace, at Cotroceni Magazin de Arta; consider buying one of Ana Ponta's Dolls of Romania, lovely soft toys dressed in traditional costumes that are perfect as gifts for young children, or for collectors. The shop at the Museum of the Romanian Peasant Shop, Sos. Kiseleff 3 (tel. 021/650-5360), is arguably the best place in the country to pick up authentic yet well-made handicrafts, traditional costumes, and folk art. A great memento for anyone with an interest in sports is a branded Steaua Bucharest football shirt from the country's most important club, at one of the Nike outlets in either the Unirea or Bucuresti mall.

The best source for all entertainment happenings is Time Out Bucuresti (www.timeoutbucuresti.ro), which carries extensive listings and information; though published only in Romanian, with a little savvy you can figure it out and certainly make sense of the dates, times, and venues. The weekly publication is available at news agents and bookstores. The other reliable information source is the useful English-language Bucharest in Your Pocket; though it only highlights major events, it lists just about every pub, club, bar, and disco in town. You can usually pick up a copy up from the larger hotels, often for free, or download it before leaving home at www.inyourpocket.com.

Vice Advice for Guys -- It's 10pm; the sun has just disappeared. You've finished a meal at a classy restaurant. Venturing onto the sidewalk, you're waiting while your partner powders her nose. Out of nowhere, a friendly, energetic man, no more than 22 years old, materializes: "Girls? You want girls? Wanna party with young girls?" Flabbergasted, you decline. "Not tonight? Take my number. Maybe tomorrow?" Prostitution is rife in Bucharest; the number of erotic clubs tucked between the churches and monuments is staggering, so it's easy to assume that anything and everything is up for grabs. Be warned: Prostitution is illegal. A system of bribes allows prostitutes to ply their trade even in top hotels; not surprisingly, the cops get the largest cut.

Live Music, Theater & Opera

Catch classical concerts by, among others, the George Enescu Philharmonic Orchestra at the sublime Romanian Athenaeum, Str. Benjamin Franklin 1-3 (tel. 021/315-8798); the box office (tel. 021/315-6875) operates Tuesday to Friday noon to 7pm, and before evening shows on Saturday and Sunday (4-7pm), and Sunday matinees (10-11am).

Opera buffs can take in occasional performances at the Opera Româna, B-dul Mihail Kogalniceanu 70-72 (tel. 021/314-6980); note that the box office is closed Monday.

There's jazz at several venues around the city; one of the best-known spots is Green Hours 22 Jazz Café, Calea Victoriei 120 (tel. 0722-234-356; www.green-hours.ro; 24 hr.), which has even spawned its own alternative record label; call beforehand to check what's on the program.

Major concerts, often by visiting international stars, are usually held at one of the city's two football stadiums, Stadionul Dinamo or Stadionul National, while slightly more intimate events are held at the Arenele Romane in Parcul Libertatii (also called Parcul Carol I).

To find out what's showing (and whether it's in English) at the Ion Luca Caragiale National Theater, visit the box office, B-dul Nicolae Balcescu 2 (tel. 021/314-7171; Mon 10am-4pm, Tues-Sun 10am-7pm).

You can buy tickets for most live events by visiting Bilete Online (Online Tickets) at www.bilete.ro.

Bars & Clubs

Bucharest loves to party, and you'll find a busy watering hole any time, night or day. Cafes and bars are often interchangeable, adapting to the vicissitudes of the crowd or the time of day; the same place you visit for an early-morning espresso could turn out to be your late-night cocktail venue. Simply put: Bucharest has something for everybody.