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Introduction to Budapest

In 1994, I answered an advertisement in the local newspaper in my native Montréal that read, "Seeking a young, well-connected, Hungarian-speaking student for intriguing artistic project." The job was indeed intriguing and artistic: I traveled to Budapest for the summer to help prepare for Canada's participation in the 1996 Expo. The trip started my career as a journalist and, ironically, brought me back to the country my parents had escaped -- as young journalists -- some four decades earlier.

The country I saw that summer -- and had occasionally seen as a child -- was drastically different from the one my parents knew. They lived in a Hungary that had already lost two-thirds of its territory during World War I. By 1941, the country was plunged into World War II, after which followed the failed 1956 revolution against the Soviet occupation. To this day, bullet holes from the armed insurrection can still be seen on the facades of buildings.

While in Hungary, I searched the archives for the old articles that my father had published in the midst of that revolution. "I pick up my coat am back on the street again," read one of the coded articles, published just days after he had fled the country, "The rain no longer bothers me, nor does the autumn sadness. I do what needs to be done. I increase the pace, because there is much that lies ahead."

I walked the streets of Budapest that summer and saw a city that was blessedly starting to emerge from the shadows of its past. My Expo gig introduced me to many Hungarian personalities -- artists, curators, government officials, and more -- and while a few still held onto the mentality of communist Hungary, many were visionaries trying to break creative barriers and introduce change. Hungary was in the midst of a fierce, lively period of transformation after decades of communist rule.

My summer ended on a slightly disappointing note when I heard -- over the radio in a taxi, no less -- that the government had cancelled the Expo project. But while the Expo never happened, Hungary is still eager to move beyond a difficult century and reconnect with the world. After all, this country enjoyed a glorious early history. Budapest once rivaled its neighboring Vienna under the Austro-Hungarian monarchy and enjoyed a flourishing cultural life. In May 2004, Hungary became a member of the European Union and now has an opportunity to be an influential European nation.

Living and working in Budapest today, I see a buzzing culture that is becoming more and more dynamically European. A vibrant young generation is proof of this. While the political elite continue to argue about the past, the youth are concentrating on the future. They're becoming multi-lingual, they're creating new film festivals and fashion shows. The scene they're developing is vibrant and fun -- if a bit secretive and clique-ish. While it might take some time to enter into their world, it's a fun journey in the end. They are playing catch-up, living off the seat of their pants.

Young and old alike, Hungarians love to live, and you'll find lots of friendly locals hanging out in bars and bistros. Travel the countryside, and take a dip in a relaxing spa. See nature and wildlife at the Tisza Lake, eat exquisite Hungarian fish soup, and venture off to Lake Balaton -- their little sea. Get to know Hungary and Hungarians.


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Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.


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Frommer's Budapest & the Best of Hungary, 7th Edition Frommer's Budapest & the Best of Hungary, 7th Edition

Author: Ryan James
Pub Date: April 21, 2008
Price: $18.99

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