Shopping

The world of fashion and commercialization has bombarded the capital with a silent invasion. Each week, COMING SOON signs appear on storefront windows promising yet another piece of globalized fashionable items, but you can rest assured they are not for the average Hungarian. From famous designer labels like Louis Vuitton and Chanel to brand-name items, stylish secondhand shops, and, sad to say, "as seen on TV" stores, Budapest offers a far wider array of shopping experiences than just a few years ago.

Budapest has become a metropolitan shopping city. At one time, the streets were cluttered with store after store of small unappealing shops and boutiques with window displays that looked like someone's junk closet; everything was tossed in without order or separation. The offerings were a scanty selection of goods and oftentimes, they were all behind a counter where no customer dares to tread. You were at the mercy of the sales clerk to decide whether or not you were worthy of examining the goods. But today, local Budapest shoppers and tourists alike have the opportunity to actually touch the goods before making a decision. The crowds still flock to the ever-growing number of gigantic malls and shopping centers for comparison shopping.

Still, buyer beware: Quality and value do not always go hand in hand with a hefty price tag. As you wander through the megamalls, as crowded as they may be, you still don't see dozens of shopping bags filled with purchases, which makes one wonder where the locals are shopping. A number of fashion-driven, retro-loving, or economically suppressed shoppers are still shopping at the small shops where they can seek out a bargain. Overcoming bankruptcy due to the influx of the megamalls, these shops -- stylish, modern, and cool -- have become the center of attention once again. To add to the mix, secondhand clothing stores have started to pop up like mushrooms after a good rain.

Vásárló utca is a street of shops underground off Váci utca near Haris köz. You will recognize it by the escalator going down to it. We do not recommend that you go down there, especially at night. It is easy to get trapped down there by an unsavory type, particularly business ladies who may have brawny friends at the top of the escalator to convince you to use unwanted services.

Folklore -- Travelers seeking folklore objects do not have to look far. First check out the second floor of the great market for a wide selection of popular items that include pillowcases, embroidered tablecloths, pottery, porcelain, intricately painted and carved eggs, dolls, dresses, skirts, and sheepskin vests. The vendors here are willing to bargain, but in the stores, they are not. Antiques shops, running along Falk Miksa utca in downtown Budapest, feature a broad selection of vintage furniture, ceramics, carpets, jewelry, and accessories, but over the years, it has become more expensive with less bargaining going on, for tourists.

Transylvania was once part of Hungary before the Trianon Treaty of World War I. Most of the residents in the area are ethnic Hungarians. These women come to Budapest with bags full of handmade craftwork selling their goods to Hungarians and tourists alike. Keep your eyes open for these vendors, who sell their goods on the street or in the metro plazas. They are unmistakable in their characteristic black boots and dark-red skirts, with red or white kerchiefs tied around their heads. Their prices are generally quite reasonable, and bargaining is customary. If they spot the police, they may disappear fast, but often return when the coast is clear again.

Porcelain -- Another popular Hungarian item is porcelain, particularly from the country's two best-known producers, Herend and Zsolnay. Although both brands are available in the West, you'll find a better selection and lower prices in Hungary. We have heard from collectors that they now have to really hunt much more for substantial bargains than they did in the past.

Hungarian Food -- Typical Hungarian foods also make great gifts. Hungarian salami is world famous. Connoisseurs generally agree that Pick Salami, produced in the southeastern city of Szeged, is the best brand. Herz Salami, produced locally in Budapest, is also a very popular product (though not as popular as Pick). You should be aware that some people have reported difficulty in clearing U.S. Customs with salami; bring it home at your own risk. Another typical Hungarian food product is chestnut paste (gesztenye püré), available in a tin or block wrapped in foil; it's used primarily as a pastry filling but can also top desserts and ice cream. Paprika paste (pirosarany) is another product that's tough to find outside Hungary. It usually comes in a bright-red tube. Three types are available: hot (csípos), deli-style (csemege), and sweet (édes). Powdered paprika is also a popular gift and also comes in the same three varieties as the paste. All of these items can be purchased at grocery stores (élelmiszer), delicatessens (csemege), and usually any little convenience store. In the great market, you will find the powdered version in little decorated cloth bags, making it ready for gift giving. Another product to look for is Szamos brand marzipan. Szamos Confectioners, a recently reestablished family business that was originally founded in 1935, is also said to make the best ice cream in the country. They're based in Szentendre, with a shop in Budapest at V. Párisi u. 3 (tel. 1/317-3643).

Wines -- Illustrious local traditional wines and spirits have matured. The sweet white Tokaji Aszú, Tokaji Eszenzia, and Tokaji Szamorodni, and the mouthwatering Egri Bikavér, Villányi Cuveé, Szekszárdi Bikavér, and Kékfrankos are the most representative. The infamous Palinka is a strong fruit brandy that is a Hungarian treasure. Unless you indulge in an expensive brand, you may get a bottle that seems to have had the fruit waved over the top of the bottle without ever really touching the drink. If someone offers you schnapps, this is what you are getting; chances are it is homemade and usually much better than the less-expensive commercial brands. Visit the House of Palinka to learn about the different types and qualities of the drink. Every European culture has its herbal digestive drink that they swear will cure what ails you. For the Germans it is Jagermeister; for Hungarians, it is the black spirit made of 40 different herbs, Unicum, the trademark product of Zwack. It is a bitter liqueur and an acquired taste. In the last couple of years, they tried their hand at a carbonated Unicum called Unicum Next to lure the youth market; it has been a success.

Markets -- If you love markets, you're in for a treat. There are numerous markets here: flea markets (használtáru piac), filled not only with every conceivable kind of junk and the occasional relic of communism, but also with great quantities of mostly low-quality new items like clothing, cassettes, and shoes; and food markets (vásárcsarnok, csarnok, or piac), which sell row after row of succulent, but limited varieties of fruits and vegetables, much of it freshly picked and driven in from the surrounding countryside. You can find saffron and several varieties of dried mushrooms for surprisingly low prices at these markets.

The Shopping Scene

Main Shopping Streets -- The hub of the tourist-packed capital is the first pedestrian shopping street in Budapest, Váci utca. It runs from the stately Vörösmarty tér in the center of Pest, across Kossuth Lajos utca, all the way to Vámház körút. This is the area for the Hungarian elite and travelers alike who stroll Váci utca as well as the boutique- and shop-filled roads bisecting pedestrian streets and courtyards. Váci utca was formerly known throughout the country as the street for good bookshops. Sadly, only one remains, but don't fret. We have other bookstore recommendations to follow that will satisfy your needs. The street is now largely occupied by Euro-fashion chain stores that flood every major city with their European-style prices. There are an overwhelming number of folklore/souvenir shops, which might be nice to window-shop, but unless we have recommended them below, you may be paying more than you should for that souvenir. This area is home to many cafes and bars, but it, like Castle Hill, is notorious for tourist traps.

Another popular shopping area for travelers is the Castle District in Buda, with its abundance of overpriced folk-art boutiques and art galleries. This is where tour buses drop off travelers with minimal time to shop, thus forcing them into unwise choices. A healthy selection of Hungarian wines and wine tasting from historical local viticulture regions can be found in the intimate labyrinthine cellar of the House of Hungarian Wines.

While Hungarians might browse or people-watch in these two neighborhoods, they tend to do their serious shopping elsewhere. One of the favorite shopping streets is Pest's Outer Ring (Nagykörút), which extends into West End Center, central Europe's largest multifunction shopping mall, located just behind the Nyugati Railway Station. This designation may not last for much longer as larger malls are on the architects' drafting tables. Another bustling shopping street is Pest's Kossuth Lajos utca, off the Erzsébet Bridge, and its continuation, Rákóczi út, which extends all the way out to Keleti Railway Station. Király utca has gentrified and is becoming known for its small boutiques of home decor. Andrássy út, from Deák tér to Oktogon, is also a popular, though more upscale. Designer stores have recently opened and more are in various stages of being created. Together with the adjacent Liszt Ferenc tér and Nagymezo utca, Andrássy út is where evenings comes alive, with numerous cafes and restaurants. Intermingled with the plethora of cafes and restaurants of the revitalized Ráday utca, a few small shops offer unique ceramic, glass, and other brick-a-brack that may be exactly what you are missing in your life. In Buda, Hungarian crowds visit the shops at Fehérvári út, the end of the number four tram line. You can often pay by credit card in the most popular shopping areas.

Hours -- Most stores are open Monday through Friday from 10am to 6pm and Saturday from 9 or 10am to 1 or sometimes 2pm. Some stores stay open an hour or two later on Thursday or Friday. Most shops are closed on Sunday, except for those on Váci utca. Shopping malls are open on weekends, sometimes as late as 9pm.

Taxes & Refunds -- Refunds on the 5% to 16.5% value-added tax (VAT), which is built into all prices, are available for most consumer goods purchases of more than 45,000 Ft ($243/£128) purchased in one store, in 1 day (look for stores with the "Tax-Free" logo in the window). The refund process, however, is elaborate and confusing. In most shops, the salesperson can provide you with the necessary documents: the store receipt, a separate receipt indicating the VAT amount on your purchase, the VAT reclaims form, and the mailing envelope. The salesperson should also be able to help you fill out the paperwork. Use a separate claim form for each applicable purchase. If you are departing Hungary by plane, you can collect your refund at the IBUSZ Agency at Ferihegy Airport. You have to do this right after checking in but before you pass security control. Otherwise, hold on to the full packet until you leave Hungary and get your forms certified by Customs when you land. Then, mail in your envelope and wait forever for your refund. Two wrinkles: You must get your forms certified by Customs within 90 days of the purchase showing that it is leaving the country, and you must mail in your forms within 183 days of the date of export certification on the refund claim form. We have never found this to be any significant savings since there is a service charge for the service. Unless you are making grandiose purchases, you may want to save your time and energy for other things. For further information, contact Global Refund (Innova-Invest Pénzügyi Rt.) at IV. Ferenciek tere 10, 1053 Budapest (tel. 1/411-0157; fax 1/411-0159; www.globalrefund.com).

Shipping & Customs -- You can ship a box to yourself from any post office, but the rules on packing boxes are as strict as they are arcane. The Hungarian postal authorities prefer that you use one of their official shipping boxes, for sale at all post offices. They're quite flimsy, however, and have been known to break open in transit. The Hungarian post does not have a five-star rating for service, but they do rank four stars for misappropriating packages coming and going from the country.

Very few shops will organize shipping for you. Exceptions to this rule include most Herend and Zsolnay porcelain shops, Ajka crystal shops, and certain art galleries, which employ the services of a packing-and-shipping company, Touristpost. Touristpost offers three kinds of delivery: express, air mail, and surface. The service is not available directly to the public, but functions only through participating contracted shops. You need to consider whether the cost of shipping will still save you money by purchasing your fine porcelain and crystal in Hungary than at home.

Hungarian customs regulations do not limit the export of noncommercial quantities of most goods, except collectibles. However, the export of some perishable food is regulated, but allowed if acceptable to the receiving country. The limit on wine and spirits is not limited at export if shipped, but may be limited by Customs at your destination. Shipping wine can be prohibitively expensive.