What's New

What's new makes the assumption that you know what was here before. This guide will give you some information about both, so you don't feel like you have missed out on a thing.

Getting to Know Budapest

If you have been here before and have attended a performance at the Erkel Theater, you will be saddened to know that it permanently closed in May 2007. Though not a pretty structure either inside or out being a lackluster communist block design, it was enormous. It could hold up to 4,000 people and was the largest entertainment venue in the city. Due to the cost of repairs, it is instead slated for destruction at some time in the future.

Transportation -- In 2006, the old trams were replaced with new more efficient trams, but to accommodate them, all tram stops had to be remodeled to raise the platform to meet the floor of the tram. This is the only wheelchair- and stroller-compliant transportation in the city. In addition, work has started on the construction of a fourth metro line. Due to the construction, there has been some disruption of services for other forms of transportation. Some tram routes have been diverted, while others have been completely changed. In some areas, buses are running in place of the tram for part of the route and then the tram picks up carrying passengers for the balance of the ride. Most of the changes are on the Buda side at traditional transport hubs. When in doubt, the Budapest Sun has traffic alerts, which include public transportation concerns in each issue. The BKV (www.bkv.hu), the company that runs the transportation systems, has a good English section on their website.

In 2007, MÁV, the Hungarian railroad, announced its intent to cut 14 branch lines with another 60 lines being considered. Although we do not believe this will affect any trips discussed in this book, it is best to double check the MÁV website (www.elvira.hu; click on the British flag for English) for the most current information. MÁV has also announced that it will start offering online ticketing by early 2008, so this is something worth checking on.

Where to Stay -- There are many new hotels for every price range in the city with new ones in the final construction phases and others breaking ground for construction. Some of the most beautiful current hotels include the historic Gresham Palace, which is now the Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace, the crown jewel among hotels in Hungary, probably in the entire central European region. The developers have beautifully restored the grand Art Nouveau structure at the head of the Chain Bridge in Pest. The hotel also includes the Páva Restaurant with its six-course meals served in a refined style and crowning elegance. The Gresham Kávéház is a full service restaurant.

Where to Dine -- Although the law requires that all restaurants offer a nonsmoking section, it is not always a separate room or even a ventilated one. However, more and more of the newer places are considering nonsmoking customers by being completely nonsmoking or completely segregating the two areas. Bars on the other hand continue to be smoking paradises.

Budapest has seen an explosion in the variety of culinary choices with samples from many countries. Typical and traditional Hungarian cuisine consists of large portions and many foods are fried. Traditional recipes call for goose fat, which really adds a distinctive and delicious flavor to the meal. Of course, you will want to try some of the many excellent traditional Hungarian dishes since that is such an important part of any cultural experience.

Restaurants that earn their reputation by word of mouth are where you will find the most delicious meals. Some are tucked away and sometimes difficult to find, but worth the effort. In the center of town, we suggest Koleves Vendéglo with their modern versions of Hungarian dishes and a lively atmosphere, or one with the simple name, M. Both are affordable, have a fun atmosphere, and are comfy. Tabáni Terasz and the Szép Ilona are the best if you're looking for traditional Hungarian fare.

Exploring Budapest -- The Ludwig Múzeum (Ludwig Museum of Contemporary Art), now located in the Palace of Arts overlooking the Danube, houses a permanent exhibition of contemporary Hungarian and international art. The collection consists primarily of American pop art and central European contemporary works. It includes several late Picassos, Andy Warhol's Single Elvis, and a Jean Tinguely. The museum's temporary exhibits often outshine its permanent collection. The design of the space is a feat in and of itself, since it is the first important Hungarian museum created for the display of contemporary art.

The private art gallery scene has also gained renewed interest with exciting art galleries such as the Kogart Gallery and the newer Art Factory Gallery, while increasing interest in the older established galleries at the same time, including the Ernst Gallery. The Ernst Gallery has a long history in the city and presents a number of different exhibitions of Hungarian art as well as special and unusual temporary exhibitions, such as an exhibit of the famous coffeehouses of the city.

Budapest Shopping -- The city has been flooded with huge Western-style malls and the largest of them all should be open sometime in 2008. Before this, the largest mall in Central Europe was the West End Center, right behind Nyugati Railway Station. This is the first and allegedly, the last mall built right in central Pest, most likely for lack of space. In addition to the malls, international designers have also discovered the city. Shops like Louis Vuitton and Chanel are now open on Andrássy. If you have children with you, you may find the Tropicarium of interest; it is located in a mall in Southern Buda called Campona, at Nagytétényi út 35-47.

Budapest After Dark -- Prices for concerts, opera, and the theater continue to rise, but most are still a bargain compared to other major cities. There are few if any events in Budapest beyond the means of the average Western budget traveler. It is still possible to get a balcony seat, albeit high up, in the Opera House for less than 1,150 Ft ($6.20/£3.25), but for a splurge, some performances sell tickets in the orchestra section for as little as 8,050 Ft ($43/£22). All theater productions are in Hungarian and rarely are they supertitled, but they can be superb nevertheless.

Trafó (located in a funky old converted electric power station) has been the rising star as the venue for modern dance. Trafó brings in Hungarian and international dance troupes with a diverse range of styles for performances. Over the years, word has spread and the theater is usually jampacked in not too comfortable, but inexpensive seating.