In Two Days

After seeing Inner Pest and the Castle District on Day 1, now you can have a walk around the Outer Ring Boulevard. Note the Nyugati Railway Station, a grand example of turn-of-the-20th-century architecture, and right behind it is the WestEnd City Center, where you will find the largest selection of shops in Budapest. Stop for coffee and a slice of dobos torta (layer cake) at the Lukács Cukrászda, just a block away from Oktogon on grand Andrássy út, then visit the House of Terror (in that order, for your sake). Then you can stroll over to Heroes' Square and the Museum of Fine Arts. But save a few hours of your afternoon for a day at Buda's Gellért Hotel and unwind in the medicinal spa waters there. Then get ready for dinner and an evening at a concert hall. Start: Nyugati Station.

1. Nyugati Railway Station

The historic Nyugati Pályaudvar, or Western Railway Station, was built by Gustave Eiffel's firm, the same company that put up Paris' famous Eiffel Tower. Unfortunately, Budapest doesn't seem to appreciate this monument much. While massive and glorious in its grandeur, the impressive glass structure is notoriously dirty, and the building houses a flashy disco and a McDonald's. Needless to say, both would be well worth moving. Adjacent to the railway station is the WestEnd City Center, central Europe's largest shopping center, with over 400 stores.

Walk toward Oktogon, noting the grand turn-of-the-20th-century Pest architecture, then walk up to Andrássy u. 70:

2. Lukács Cukrászda

A faithful reproduction of a vintage coffeehouse, this large, airy establishment was created decades after a coffeehouse of the same name closed its doors. Never too crowded, it's a great spot for a quiet bite to eat and a cup of joe. Andrássy u. 70. tel. 1/302-8747.

After lunch, walk a bit down the street to Andrássy u. 60:

3. Terror Háza (House of Terror)

The former headquarters of the AVH secret police, this building is witness to some of the darkest days of 20th-century Hungary. (You will be glad you already ate lunch.) This museum was set up as a memorial to the victims of both Communism and Fascism, and is an attempt to recapture life under successive oppressive regimes in Hungary. The tearing down of the ugly exterior facade has been the subject of much debate, however; for political reasons it has remained the sore thumb of the grand Andrássy Boulevard. The building was the headquarters of the Nazis in 1944, and many individuals were tortured and murdered in the eerie cellars of this building. The Communist secret police were next to use the venue as a place for their own torture and oppression.

Walk up the majestic Andrássy boulevard toward Heroes' Square and City Park:

4. Andrássy Boulevard

Lined with trees and a wealth of beautiful apartment buildings, this is fin de siècle Pest's greatest boulevard that is recognized as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Andrássy út is the home to a lively cafe-and-bar scene, as well as a number of small museums. There are colorful terraces, and delicious cakes and ice cream are sold under the shade of the huge trees all the way up to Oktogon.

Once you reach the end of Andrássy boulevard, adjacent to the Museum of Fine Arts, the Múcsarnok, and City Park, you'll find:

5. Heroes' Square

Heroes' Square, built as a project of the millennium over a century ago, celebrates the arrival of the Magyar tribes in the Carpathian Basin. The statues represent the chronology of some 1,000 years of Hungarian history. In 1896 during the famous world exhibition, this space was the apex of some 200 pavilions that made up the festivities.

To your left you will find the Museum of Fine Arts. The museum is the main repository of foreign art in Hungary and has one of central Europe's major collections.

Take the Yellow metro line, the oldest in continental Europe until Déak Tér, then take the 47 tram to the Gellért Baths:

6. The Gellért Baths

Prepare yourself for a relaxing afternoon, and allow yourself a few hours at Budapest's most spectacular bathhouse. The Gellért Baths are located in Buda's Hotel Gellért, the oldest Hungarian spa hotel and an Art Nouveau jewel. Enter the baths through the side entrance. The exterior of the building is in need of restoration, but once inside the lobby, you'll be delighted by the details. The unisex indoor pool is without question one of Europe's finest, with marble columns, majolica tiles, and stone lion heads spouting water. The two single-sex Turkish-style thermal baths, off to either side of the pool through badly marked doors, are also glorious, though in need of restoration.

After your afternoon of thermal bathing, you may want to head back to your hotel to rest and freshen up for your evening, and then head out to dinner. You'll be going to dinner from your hotel, so it's difficult to recommend a restaurant based on itinerary location. You should choose a dining spot and make a pre-theater reservation.

7. Attend a Nighttime Concert

Spend an evening attending a concert at the Ferenc Liszt Music Academy, or the recently opened National Concert Hall at the Palace of Art, both Budapest's finest concert halls: The first is a more classical hall, while the National Concert Hall is the most modern hall in Budapest. The fine arts are alive and well in Budapest, and a nighttime concert is the perfect cap for your short stint in the city. Note that performances usually start at 7:30 or 8pm.