Thermal Baths

Hungarians are great believers in the medicinal powers of thermal bathing. Even if you are unsure about the health benefits, it's hard to deny that time spent in thermal baths is enjoyable and relaxing. The baths of Budapest have a long and proud history, stretching back to Roman times. The bath culture flourished while the city was under Turkish occupation, and several still-functioning bathhouses -- Király, Rudas, and Rácz -- are among the architectural relics of the Turkish period. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries -- Budapest's "golden age" -- several fabulous bathhouses were built: the extravagant and eclectic Széchenyi Baths in City Park, the splendid Art Nouveau Gellért Baths, and the solid neoclassical Lukács Baths. All of these bathhouses are still in use and are worth a look even for nonbathers. Most baths in Budapest have recently instituted a complicated new pricing system (dubbed the "refund system") that charges according to the time that you have spent in the baths. Previously, a single admission ticket bought you an unlimited visit. Now, you are generally required to pay for the longest possible duration (4 hr. or more) when you enter the bathhouse and you are refunded on the basis of the actual time that you spent on the premises when you exit. You are given a chip card upon entry; keep careful track of the card because if you lose it you are assumed to have stayed for the maximum time and you will not receive a refund.

Rácz bathhouse, located at I. Hadnagy u. 8-10 (tel. 1/356-1322), near the Erzsébet Bridge in Buda, has been closed for renovation for some time. They have not announced new hours or prices, but it was previously open 6:30am to 7pm Monday through Saturday. The bathhouse was previously open on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday for women only, and Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday for men only.

Lukács bath and swimming pool, at II. Frankel Leo u. 25-29 (tel. 1/326-1695), is open Monday through Friday from 6am to 7pm, and Saturday and Sunday from 6am to 4pm. The entrance fee is 1,500 Ft ($7.50). Take tram no. 4 or 6 to the Buda side of the Margaret Bridge; walk from there.

More modern spa facilities are available at the two Thermal Hotels: Helia and Corinthia Aquincum.

Thermal Bathing 101

Thermal bathing is an activity steeped in ritual. For this reason, and because bathhouse employees tend to be unfriendly relics of the old system, many foreigners find a trip to the baths stressful or confusing at first. As with any ritualistic activity, it helps to spend some time observing before joining in. Even then, you are likely not to know what to do or where to go. The best advice is to try to enjoy the foreignness of the experience -- why else do we leave home?

The most confusing step may well be the first: the ticket window, with its endless list of prices for different facilities and services, often without English translations. Chances are you're coming to use one of the following facilities or services: uszoda (pool); termál (thermal pool); fürdo (bath); gozfürdo (steam bath); massage; and/or sauna. There is no particular order in which people move from one facility to the next; do whatever feels most comfortable. Towel rental is törülközo or lepedo. An entry ticket generally entitles you to a free locker in the locker room (öltözo); or, at some bathhouses, you can opt to pay an additional fee for a private cabin (kabin). At the Király, everyone gets a private dressing room and an employee locks and unlocks the rooms.

Remember to pack a bathing suit -- and a bathing cap, if you wish to swim in the pools -- so you won't have to rent vintage 1970 models. In the single-sex baths, nude bathing is the custom and the norm. Towels are provided, but usually as you re-enter the locker area after bathing. You may want to bring your own towel with you into the bathing areas if this makes you uncomfortable. Flip-flops are also a good idea. Soap and shampoo are only allowed in the showers, but should be brought out to the bath area so that you can avoid having to return to the comparatively cold locker room prematurely. You will, most likely, want to wash your hair after soaking in the sulphuric waters. Long hair must be tied back when bathing. Leave your eyeglasses in your locker as they will get fogged up in the baths.

Generally, extra services (massage, pedicure) are received after a bath. Tipping is tricky; locker room attendants do not expect tips (except perhaps at the Gellért) but would welcome a tip in the 200-Ft-to-400-Ft range ($1-$2) while masseurs and manicurists expect a tip in the 200-Ft-to-600-Ft range ($1-$3).

There are drinking fountains in the bath areas, and it's a good idea to drink plenty of water before a bath. And don't bathe on an empty stomach; the hot water and steam take a heavy toll on the unfortified body, especially for those unaccustomed to the baths. Most bathhouses have snack bars in the lobbies where you can pick up a cold juice or sandwich on your way out. After the baths, you will be thirsty and hungry. Be sure to replenish yourself.