A Burlington landmark since 1941, Bove's is a classic red-sauce-on-spaghetti joint a couple of blocks from the Church Street Marketplace. It's got true character, and, amazingly, nothing here costs more than 9 bucks -- still. The facade is black and white, its octagonal windows closed to prying eyes by Venetian blinds. Step through the doors and into a lost era, grab a seat at a vinyl-upholstered booth, and browse the menu: spaghetti with butter sauce, spaghetti with meat sauce, spaghetti with meatballs . . . you get the idea. The red sauce here is tangy, the vodka-cream sauce rich and award-winning, and the garlic sauce packs enough punch to knock you out of your booth and keep you from getting kissed all night. (They jar and sell their sauces, in case you want to take some home.) Not feeling hungry for pasta? Bove's also fixes grinders -- which should be the only correct term for a sub/hero/hoagie, in my view -- and serves inexpensive cheesecake slices topped with maple (never seen that before), cherry, or chocolate. I can't resist telling you this, either: The restaurant operates a van around town known as the Meatball-Mobile, serving little portions of (yes) meatballs, ravioli, and soft-serve ice cream.
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