Frommer's Review
This gold-domed baroque peacock by architect Vicente Acero has a neoclassical interior dominated by an outstanding apse. Construction began in 1720 but the cathedral wasn't completed until 1838. The tomb of Cádiz-born composer Manuel de Falla (1876-1946) is in a splendid crypt. Haydn composed Seven Last Words for this cathedral, which was the last great cathedral erected in Spain financed by riches from the New World. It is still laden with a treasure-trove that includes the Custodia del Millón, a monstrance set with a million precious stones. On-site is a museum filled with art and more treasures. Much of the gold, silver, and precious jewels on show here came from the New World. Note Enrique de Arfe's processional cross, which is carried through the streets in the annual Corpus Christi parades.
Next door is the church, Iglesia de Santa Cruz, Plaza Fray Félix (tel. 95-628-77-04), which was the original cathedral, built in the 1200s. The invading British destroyed this catedral vieja in 1592 but it has been rebuilt. The cathedral is open daily 8:30am to 1:30pm and 5:30 to 8pm. Admission is free.
In back of the cathedral, whose technical name is La Catedral de San Salvador, are found the unimpressive ruins of what was once a mammoth Teatro Romano (tel. 95-626-47-34) entered at Campo del Sur. It is open daily from 10am to 2pm; admission is free.
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