Shopping

Jewelers, leather-goods shops, and souvenir stores are everywhere -- but it's hard to find that very special item that's both tasteful and distinctively Cretan. Below, I try to point out some things you will not find anywhere else. Unless otherwise noted, the following shops are open daily.

Carmela, at 7 Anghelou, the narrow street across from the Naval Museum's entrance (tel. 28210/90-487), has some of the finest ceramics, jewelry, and works of art in Crete -- all original, but inspired by ancient works of art and even employing some of the old techniques.

Step into Cretan Rugs and Blankets, 3 Anghelou (tel. 28210/98-571), to experience a realm not found anywhere else on Crete. It's an old Venetian structure filled with gorgeously colored rugs, blankets, and kilims. Prices range from 100€ to 2,000€. Or visit Roka Carpets, 61 Zambeliou (tel. 28210/74-736), where you can watch a traditional weaver at his trade. The carpets come in patterns, colors, and sizes to suit every taste; prices start at 20€. These are not artsy textiles, but traditional Cretan weaving.

Although Khalki, 75 Zambeliou, near the far end of the street (tel. 28210/75-379), is one of many little shops that sell ceramics along with other trinkets and souvenirs, it also carries the work of several local and Greek ceramicists who draw on traditional motifs and colors. For a more sophisticated selection of Greek handicrafts, try Mitos at 44 Halidon, opposite the Orthodox Cathedral (tel. 28210/88-862). For a varied selection by amateur Cretan artisans, visit the Local Artistic Handicrafts Association (tel. 28210/41-885), located just where the new harbor turns the corner into the old harbor.

Finally, for a truly different souvenir or gift, try Orphanos, 24 Tsopuderon (tel. 28210/48-285), by the stairs at the rear of the public market, with its unexpected collection of dolls and marionettes.