Things To Do in Chania

In summer, several small excursion ships offer 1- to 5-hour trips to the waters and islets off Chania. These trips depart from the old and new harbors and include stops for swimming at one or another of the islets; some provide free snorkeling gear. On the glass-bottomed Evangelos and Aphrodite, you can see underwater life. The cost ranges from 10€ to 25€ adults; free for children 11 and under. Those more curious about the terrestrial environment might want to take an informative walk through Old Chania with Dr. Alexandra Ariotti, a local archaeologist. She can be contacted via e-mail at alex@chania-oldtown-walks.gr. The cost is 25€ and lower, depending on the number who go along. Diktynna Travel Agency (www.diktynna-travel.gr) sponsors a day at a farm outside Chania where you get lessons in cooking Cretan specialties, participate in cheese, wine, and olive tastings, and cap the day with a meal. And for those few who are looking for an adrenaline rush, there is now what is said to be the highest bungee-jumping site from a bridge in Europe at the Aradaina bridge, down near the south coast, just west of Khora Sfakion.

The Botanical Park

It's rare to be able to come up with something new, different, and engaging after years of seeking out places of interest on Crete, but here is just such a place: Cretan brothers, having lost their olive grove to a forest fire in 2003, converted their mountain slopes into a botanical garden, with hundreds of species of trees, bushes, herbs, and flowers from all over the world. One walks along groomed paths up and down the slopes with most of the plants identified (in Greek and English) and their distinctive characteristics and uses (many are medicinal) described. There's a small collection of animals at the base -- including Crete's famous wild goat. At a leisurely pace it can take 2 to 2 1/2 hours; with shortcuts it can be done in half that time. The final ascent can be demanding but at the end you get to eat a meal prepared from local ingredients while sitting on the restaurant terrace and enjoying the spectacular view. The garden is about 19km (12 miles) southwest of Chania, just beyond the town of Fournes. Open April to October every day, 8am to 8:30pm. Admission is 4€ and includes a bottle of water and the use of a walking stick if desired. Children 12 and under enter free. See www.botanical-park.gr for more details.

Jewelers, leather-goods shops, and souvenir stores are everywhere -- but it's hard to find that special item that's both tasteful and distinctively Cretan. To help you, there's Kaparakis at 32 Portou (the street running below the Venetian wall, approached from the top of Kondolaki; tel. 28210/99-205). Then there's Carmela, at 7 Anghelou, the narrow street across from the Naval Museum's entrance (tel. 28210/90-487), which has some elegant ceramics and jewelry -- all original, but inspired by ancient works of art and even employing some of the old techniques.

Below, I point out some things you will not find anywhere else. And unless otherwise noted, these shops are open daily.

XPOMA (Chroma) at 42 Daskoloyiannis has a truly fine (and not cheap) selection of old prints and maps. The new Notos Bookstore (tel. 28210/86-771) at 10 Kondolaki has a surprisingly sophisticated (for its location) selection of books in several foreign languages. Call ahead if you have a special title in mind.

Step into Cretan Rugs and Blankets, 3 Anghelou (tel. 28210/98-571), to experience a realm not found elsewhere on Crete. It's an old Venetian structure filled with gorgeously colored rugs, blankets, and kilims. Prices range from 100€ to 2,000€. Or visit Roka Carpets, 61 Zambeliou (tel. 28210/74-736), where you can watch a traditional weaver at work. The carpets come in patterns, colors, and sizes to suit every taste; prices start at 20€. These are not artsy textiles, but traditional Cretan weaving.

There is no end of shops selling ceramics, trinkets and souvenirs of all kinds, for a more sophisticated selection of Greek handicrafts, try Mitos at 44 Halidon, opposite the Orthodox Cathedral (tel. 28210/88-862). Castello Vechio, at the corner of Episkopi Chrysanthos, has a unusual selection of ceramics and woodware. For a varied selection by amateur Cretan artisans, visit the Local Artistic Handicrafts Association (tel. 28210/41-885), located where the new harbor turns the corner into the old harbor.

At night, instead of seeking out a packed club/bar/disco or walking around the harbor and old town, wander into Chania's back alleys to see the old Venetian and Turkish remains. Sit in a quayside cafe and enjoy a coffee or a drink, or treat yourself to a ride in a horse-drawn carriage at the harbor. At the other extreme, stroll through the new town; you might be surprised by the modernity and diversity (and prices) of the stores patronized by typical Chaniots.

Clubs come and go from year to year. Some popular spots include El Mondo and the Happy Go Lucky, both on Kondilaki (the street leading away from the center of the old harbor); Idaeon Andron, 26 Halidon; and Ariadne, on Akti Enoseos (around the corner, where the old harbor becomes the new). On Anghelou (up from the Naval Museum) is Fagotta, a bar that sometimes offers jazz.

Cafes are everywhere, but two stand out because of their locations. At Pallas Roof Garden Cafe-Bar, on Akti Tobazi (right at the corner where the new harbor meets the old harbor), you can sit high above the harbor, watch the lights, listen to the murmur of the crowds below, and nurse a refreshing drink or ice cream. However, you must climb 44 stairs to get here; as the sign says, IT'S WORTH IT. If you'd prefer to hear traditional Cretan songs, try Cafe Lyriaka, 22 Kalergon (behind the arsenali along the harbor).

The gay community in Chania does not seem to have any single gathering place, but the DioLuxe cafe, at 8 Sarpidonas (behind the Porto Veneziano hotel, on the new harbor), is reported to be gay friendly.

Movie houses around town -- both outdoor and indoor -- usually show foreign movies in their original language. The one in the public gardens is especially enjoyable. Watching a movie on a warm summer night in an outdoor cinema is one of life's simpler pleasures.

A summer cultural festival sometimes features dramas, symphonic music, jazz, dance, and traditional music. These performances take place from July to September at several venues: Firka fortress at the far left of the harbor; the Venetian arsenali along the old harbor; East Moat Theater along Nikiforou Phokas; or Peace and Friendship Park Theater on Demokratias, just beyond the public gardens. For details, inquire at one of the tourist information offices when you arrive in town.