Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Chartres

It's not hard to understand why visitors flock to see the awe-inspiring Cathédrale de Chartres, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979. With its mixed-and-matched bell towers, its weather-worn, revolution-damaged exterior, and above all, its shimmering stained-glass windows, the phenomenal church seduces the eyes and the spirit. Reportedly, Rodin once sat for hours on the sidewalk, admiring the sculptures on the facade. His opinion: Chartres is the French Acropolis. If you take the time to absorb the cathedral's intricacies, you will most certainly come to the same conclusion.

The cathedral's origins are uncertain; some have suggested it grew up over an ancient Druid site that later became a Roman temple. As early as the 4th century, there was a Christian basilica here. An 1194 fire destroyed most of what had by then become a Romanesque cathedral but spared the western facade and crypt. The cathedral you see today dates principally from the 13th century, when it was rebuilt with the efforts and contributions of kings, princes, churchmen, and pilgrims from all over Europe. One of the world's greatest high Gothic cathedrals, it was one of the first to use flying buttresses to support the soaring dimensions within.

As you approach the building, stop to admire the beautiful 12th-century sculptures on the Royal Portal. A landmark in Romanesque art, the sculptured bodies are elongated, often stylized, in their long, flowing robes. But the faces are amazingly (for the time) lifelike, occasionally winking or smiling. In the central tympanum, Christ is shown at the Second Coming, with his descent depicted on the right and his ascent on the left. Before entering, walk around to both the North Portal and the South Portal, each from the 13th century. Look carefully and you can read some of the biblical scenes depicted such as the expulsion of Adam and Eve from the Garden of Eden.

Upon entering the cathedral visitors are immediately overcome by the amazing light from the stained glass. Covering an expanse of more than 2,500 sq. m. (26,910 sq. ft.), the glass is unlike anything else in the world. The stained glass, most of which dates from the 12th and 13th centuries, was spared in both world wars by being painstakingly removed, piece by piece, and stored away. See the windows in the morning, at noon, in the afternoon, at sunset -- as often as you can. Like the petals of a kaleidoscope, they constantly change. It's difficult to single out one panel or window above the others, but an exceptional one is the 12th-century Vierge de la Belle Verrière (Our Lady of the Beautiful Window) on the south side. Of course, there are three fiery rose windows, but you couldn't miss those if you tried.

Though you might be too transfixed by the heavenly light, don't neglect to take in the celebrated choir screen; work on it began in the 16th century and lasted until 1714. The niches, 40 in all, contain statues illustrating scenes from the life of the Madonna and Christ -- everything from the Massacre of the Innocents to the Coronation of the Virgin. Before exiting, have a look at the floor of the nave, which still contains its ancient floor labyrinth, a 262m-long (858 ft.) pilgrimage path that used to be walked by pilgrims in prayer or often traveled on one's knees as an act of repentance. The wooden Notre-Dame du Piller (Virgin of the Pillar), to the left of the choir, dates from the 14th century. The crypt was built over 2 centuries, beginning in the 9th century. Enshrined within is Our Lady of the Crypt, a 1976 Madonna that replaced one destroyed during the revolution.

Try to take a tour conducted by Malcolm Miller (tel. 02-37-28-15-58; fax 02-37-28-33-03; millerchartres@aol.com), an Englishman who has spent 3 decades studying the cathedral and giving tours in English. His rare blend of scholarship, enthusiasm, and humor will help you understand and appreciate the cathedral. He usually conducts 75-minute tours at noon and 2:45pm Monday to Saturday for 10€ for adults or 5€ students. Tours are canceled during pilgrimages, religious celebrations, and large funerals.

If you're fit enough, don't miss the opportunity, especially in summer, to climb to the top of the tower.

After your visit, stroll through the Episcopal Gardens and enjoy yet another view of this remarkable cathedral.

Music of the Spheres  -- If you're visiting Chartres on a Sunday afternoon, the cathedral has a free 1-hour organ concert at 4:45pm, when the filtered light of the setting sun makes the western windows come thrillingly alive.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

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