When the sun starts to sink, you should be watching it turn the harbor waters pale pink, either on a harbor cruise or, a cocktail in hand, from the Harbour View bar at the Taj Residency in Ernakulam. Once the sun has set, head down M.G. Road to the Avenue Regent hotel and grab a sofa at Loungevity, a cool white minimalist lounge bar, and watch the city of Kochi network at what is currently the trendiest nightspot in town (tel. 0484/237 7977; www.avenueregent.com). Alternatively, if you want to stay in Fort Kochi, a Kathakali or Kalaripayattu demonstration can easily fill the gap before a fine seafood dinner.
Kathakali & Kalaripayattu: Kerala's Colorful Art Forms
A stay in Kochi affords you the opportunity to sample Kerala's best-known classical art form -- Kathakali, a performance style that delves into the world of demons, deities, soldiers, sages, and satyrs, taken from Indian epics such as the Mahabharata. Combining various theatrical and performance elements, it is said to have developed during the 16th century under the auspices of the Raja of Kottaraka, and today the best Kathakali school is in Kalamandalam, founded by a poet named Vallathol Narayan Menon in 1930. Here, students undergo a rigorous training program that lasts 6 years and includes massage techniques, extensive make-up training, and knowledge of the precise and subtle finger, body, and eye movements that constitute the language and grand emotions of Kathakali. There is also a host of instruments that may be mastered, as no performance is without musical accompaniment. So striking are the costumes, make-up, and jewelry associated with this form of dance-theater, that the image of the elaborately adorned, heavily made-up, and almost masklike face of the Kathakali performer has become the state's most recognizable icon. Performers employ exaggerated facial expressions (only enhanced by the make-up -- bright paint applied thickly to the face) and a highly technical set of symbolic hand gestures (known as mudras). Vocalists and musicians help set the mood, utilizing the chengila (gong), elathalam (small cymbals), and chenda and maddalam (drums). Traditionally, Kathakali performances are held for entire nights, often as part of festival events. In Kochi, however, a number of Kathakali groups stage short extracts of the longer pieces specifically for tourist consumption. Kerala is also renowned for its unique martial arts form: the supremely acrobatic Kalaripayattu, believed to be the oldest defense-combat system in the world. Apparently discovered in ancient times by traveling Buddhist monks who needed to protect themselves against marauding bandits, Kalaripayattu is believed to predate more recognizable forms, like kung-fu, that emerged farther east. For demonstrations of Kathakali and Kalaripayattu, see recommendations below.
Kathakali Performances -- In Fort Kochi, the Kerala Kathakali Centre (River Rd., opposite entrance to Brunton Boatyard; tel. 0484/221-5827; www.kathakalicentre.com) hosts the best Kathakali demonstration in the city. This rustic, atmospheric "theater" also hosts Indian Classical Music nights. Kathakali performances (Rs 150/$3.40/£1.70) are held daily from 6:30 or 7pm to 8pm, with make-up demonstrations from around 5pm; the hour-long music performances are from 8:45pm. Alongside the theater is Old Port Restaurant (tel. 0484/221-5341), a good venue for pre- or post-show meals (a good idea to bring mosquito repellent for both the show and the restaurant). If you're interested in attending a proper all-night Kathakali performance at a temple, speak to one of the organizers at Kerala Kathakali; some of their top performers are often involved in authentic rituals.
The other, more famous Kathakali venue, featured on a number of television programs, is in Ernakulam, near the Junction Railway station. India Foundation Traditional Theatre (Kalathi Parambil Cross Rd; tel. 0484/237-6471; kathakalidevan@hotmail.com) is presented by P. K. Devan, who reveals the religious roots and philosophy behind the katha (story) and kali (play). Performances are held daily between 6:45 and 8pm; makeup starts at 6pm.
Kalaripayattu Performances -- While there are a number of dedicated training schools (kalaris) where Kerala's traditional martial arts form, Kalaripayattu, is taught for its intended purpose, it is usually performed in a staged environment for tourists. Shiva Shakti Kalari Kshetram (Kaloor, Ernakulam; tel. 98-9529-0635) holds daily demonstrations of Kalaripayattu from 5 to 6pm; the institute also provides training and Ayurvedic massage based on principles derived from the art of Kalari.
