Things To Do in Cochin

Lazy and laid-back, Fort Kochi offers a tranquillity that is in complete contrast to the heaving city experience of Ernakulam. Along with Mattancherry and Jew Town, Fort Kochi forms the historic heart (also known as Old Kochi) of the city -- it is, after all, a town where 14 different languages are spoken, and tumbled-down mansions line narrow ancient lanes. Near the water's edge, old warehouses (or godowns) are filled with the state's treasured cash crops -- pepper, tea, Ayurvedic herbs, whole ginger, and betel nuts -- being dried, sorted, and prepared for direct sale or auction. The area is wonderful for historic walks, particularly into Jew Town, which hosts the remains of a community that dates back to the 1st century A.D., augmented during the 16th century when the Inquisition brought a fresh wave of Jewish immigrants here. Today only a small handful of aging "white Jewish" families remain in Kochi, but their residential quarter retains a charming ambience, with cobbled streets and fascinating antiques shops and spice markets.

Man-made Willingdon Island, a short ferry ride or bridge journey away, was created in the 20th century by large-scale dredging. There is a good hotel here, but the island is primarily concerned with naval and commercial port activity and is not worth visiting unless you're based here. Bolgatty Island, reached by ferry, is of no interest other than the rather lovely heritage "palace" on its shores, which has been converted into a poorly managed state-government hotel.

Exploring Old Kochi

Start your 2-hour walking tour at the harbor near Vasco da Gama Square, where you can watch fishermen hoisting their catch from the cantilevered Chinese fishing nets that line the shore, then head along Church Road to St. Francis Church. Keep going toward Parade Road (where you'll see the Malabar House Residency). Turn right into Parade Road then left along Dutch Cemetery Road, passing Thakur House and the cemetery on your right, as well as the remains of the 16th-century Fort Immanuel. Just after this you will turn north (left) up Elephinstone Road, making a left onto Ridsdale Road. After popping into Cinnamon and perhaps watching the boys and men playing cricket on the Parade Ground park opposite the store, turn right into Bastion Street and drift in the direction of Santa Cruz Basilica. If you're ready to take a break, turn right before this into Peter Celli Street, where you can't miss the lovely Tea Pot; service is excruciatingly slow but the ambience is lovely. Or take the next street left into Burgher and stop at Kashi Art Café, where the contemporary art and vibrant atmosphere provide a contrast to the historic surroundings.

When you're ready, head toward Tower Road, where you will find the lovely red-brick Koder House, not far from where you started your tour. Built in 1808 by Jewish patriarch Samuel Koder, Koder House is a good example of the hybrid Indo-European style that developed in Cochin. It's also an example of an overpriced guesthouse, so if you want to appreciate the interiors, ask to see a room -- they're quite popular, however, so you may have to settle on taking a drink in the lovely upstairs lounge (while there, snoop a bit and see if you can spot the overhead bridge that links this hotel to the one behind -- this was formerly one large property). Next door to Koder House, the Old Harbour Hotel has made a more successful, dynamic transition to hospitality, and you'd do well to book dinner at the in-house restaurant, 1788, where you should pause immediately for a cooling glass of organic carrot and gooseberry juice. Beyond is the Pierce Leslie Bungalow, a charming 19th-century mansion reflecting both Portuguese and Dutch influences.

While in the vicinity of the fishing nets, you might want to wander along the harbor's edge for a while (this stretch is very popular at sunset), watching fishermen sell their catch. When you've had enough, catch an auto-rickshaw to Mattancherry, where you should visit the Mattancherry (Dutch) Palace and Paradesi Synagogue before discovering the fragrant scents of Kerala's spice warehouses. Make time to visit a few of the antiques warehouses, and don't be put off by the layers of dust -- there are some real treasures to be found. End your day full circle with a sunset cruise around the harbor; this is the best way to enjoy the most-photographed of Kochi's historic sights: the Chinese fishing nets that form wonderful silhouettes against a red- and orange-hued sky.

Black Gold -- In Kerala, pepper is still sometimes referred to as karuthu ponnu, or "black gold," and represents the backbone of the state's international spice trade. Although the furious trade around spices has subsided considerably these days, the sorting houses, warehouses, and auction houses from which these valuable products find their way to the rest of the world still operate in much the same way they have for centuries (though given the current crises surrounding many of the traditional cash crops, there is a possibility that these side-street sights will not be around forever). Ask your guide or auto-rickshaw driver to take you to the ginger, black pepper, betel nut, and Ayurvedic medicine warehouses, reminiscent of Salman Rushdie's The Moor's Last Sigh; or head for the Kochi International Pepper Exchange on Jew Town Rd., Mattancherry (tel. 0484/222-4263), where until recently you could see Kerala's black gold being furiously sold off to the highest bidder; sadly, this is now done electronically.

When the sun starts to sink, you should be watching it turn the harbor waters pale pink, either on a harbor cruise or, a cocktail in hand, from the Harbour View bar at The Gateway Hotel Marine Drive in Ernakulam. Once the sun has set, head down M.G. Road to the Avenue Regent hotel and grab a sofa at Loungevity, a cool white minimalist lounge bar, and watch the city of Kochi network at the trendiest nightspot in the untouristy part of the city (tel. 0484/237 7977; www.avenuehotels.in). Alternatively, if you want to stay in Fort Kochi, a Kathakali or Kalaripayattu demonstration can easily fill the gap before a fine seafood dinner. Or simply spend the evening sampling glass after glass of India's top vintages at The Malabar House's tiny wine lounge, Divine.

Kathakali & Kalaripayattu: Kerala's Ancient Art Forms

A stay in Kochi affords you the opportunity to sample Kerala's best-known classical art form -- Kathakali, a performance style that delves into the world of demons, deities, soldiers, sages, and satyrs, taken from Indian epics such as the Mahabharata. Combining various theatrical and performance elements, it is said to have developed during the 16th century under the auspices of the Raja of Kottaraka, and today the best Kathakali school is in Kalamandalam, founded by a poet named Vallathol Narayan Menon in 1930. Here, students undergo a rigorous training program that lasts 6 years and includes massage techniques, extensive makeup training, and knowledge of the precise and subtle finger, body, and eye movements that constitute the language and grand emotions of Kathakali. There is also a host of instruments that may be mastered, as no performance is without musical accompaniment. So striking are the costumes, makeup, and jewelry associated with this form of dance-theater that the image of the elaborately adorned, heavily made-up, and almost masklike face of the Kathakali performer has become the state's most recognizable icon. Performers employ exaggerated facial expressions (only enhanced by the makeup -- bright paint applied thickly to the face) and a highly technical set of symbolic hand gestures (known as mudras). Vocalists and musicians help set the mood, utilizing the chengila (gong), elathalam (small cymbals), and chenda and maddalam (drums). Traditionally, Kathakali performances are held for entire nights, often as part of festival events. In Kochi, however, a number of Kathakali groups stage short extracts of the longer pieces specifically for tourist consumption. Kerala is also renowned for its unique martial arts form: the supremely acrobatic Kalaripayattu, believed to be the oldest defense-combat system in the world. Apparently discovered in ancient times by traveling Buddhist monks who needed to protect themselves against marauding bandits, Kalaripayattu is believed to predate more recognizable forms, like kung-fu, that emerged farther east. For demonstrations of Kathakali and Kalaripayattu, see our recommendations below.

Cultural Performances

In Fort Kochi, the Kerala Kathakali Centre (Kathakali Mandapam, K.B. Jacob Rd.; tel. 0484/221-5827 or -7552; www.kathakalicentre.com) near Santa Cruz Basilica hosts the best Kathakali demonstration in the city. Kathakali performances (Rs 200) are held daily from 6 to 7:30pm, with makeup demonstrations starting at 5pm. Afterwards, the center also hosts hour-long Indian classical music performances, starting at 8pm; on Saturdays, another classical dance form is performed instead of the music concert. Martial arts demo shows are held in the afternoon at 4pm. If you're interested in attending a proper all-night Kathakali performance at a temple, speak to one of the organizers at Kerala Kathakali; some of their top performers are often involved in authentic rituals.

If you want to cram as much variety into the evening as you possibly can, then catch the kaleidoscopic look at Kerala's traditional dance forms at the strictly-for-tourists Greenix Village, opposite Fort House hotel, just down the road from the Brunton Boatyard. The nightly showcase is a bit heavy-handed, with a thundering narration explaining each of the dances, but at least you get to see forms other than Kathakali, including a short theyyam piece (not quite so riveting when it's out of context), and a sampling of koodiyattam, the oldest surviving Sanskrit theater form. Tickets are Rs 300, and in season it's probably a good idea to book in advance (Kalvathy Rd., Fort Kochi; tel. 0484/221-7000; www.greenix.in). The theater has a permanent exhibition on all of Kerala's dance forms, which you can walk through prior to the show, and there's a good little bookstore to peruse afterwards. Shows start at 6:30pm (with makeup from 5:30pm) and last an hour. Kalaripayattu sessions happen 8 to 9am and 3 to 4pm.

The other, more famous Kathakali venue, featured on a number of television programs, is inconveniently located in Ernakulam, near the Junction Railway station -- the See India Foundation (Kalathi Parambil Lane; tel. 0484/237-6471) hosts nightly performances, introduced to the audience by P. K. Devan -- he reveals the religious roots and philosophy behind the katha (story) and kali (play). Performances are held between 6:45 and 8pm; makeup starts at 6pm.

While there are a number of dedicated training schools (kalaris) where Kerala's traditional martial arts form, Kalaripayattu, is taught for its intended purpose, it is usually performed in a staged environment for tourists. Shiva Shakti Kalari Kshetram (Kaloor, Ernakulam; tel. 98-9529-0635) holds daily demonstrations of Kalaripayattu from 5 to 6pm; the institute also provides training and Ayurvedic massage based on principles derived from the art of Kalari. Another option is Dakshina Bharatha Kalari (tel. 0484/221-8776), with daily shows at 7pm.