Active Pursuits

If you'd rather not be a driver in the park's heavy summer traffic, guided Yellowstone National Park tours are available locally through Grub Steak Expeditions, P.O. Box 1013, Cody, WY 82414 (tel. 800/527-6316 or 307/527-6316; www.grubsteaktours.com). Bob Richard, Grub Steak's proprietor (and one of the most knowledgeable guides you'll find), is a third-generation Cody resident and former Yellowstone ranger.

Cody has fewer organized recreation options than Jackson does, but there is no shortage of places to go outdoors. Buffalo Bill State Park, located along the canyon and reservoir 6 miles west of Cody, is a hot spot for outdoors buffs, with opportunities for hiking, fishing, and a variety of watersports, particularly windsurfing. The park also has facilities for camping and picnicking.

Biking

If you want to explore the area on two wheels, bike rentals are available from Absaroka Bikes, 2201 17th St. (tel. 307/527-5566). Although there isn't a marked network of bike paths in the Cody area, you can ride on the Forest Service trails west of town off U.S. Hwy. 14/16/20 in the Shoshone National Forest. For specific trail information, contact the Forest Service (tel. 307/527-6241; www.fs.fed.us/r2/shoshone).

Cross-Country Skiing

If you favor a groomed course for cross-country skiing, try the North Fork Nordic Trails in Shoshone National Forest near the east entrance to the park off U.S. 14/16/20. You can circuit 25km (16 miles) of trails adjacent to the Sleeping Giant downhill area and the Pahaska Tepee resort.

Fishing

Yellowstone's legendary fly-fishing waters are a short drive away, but the smaller streams west of Cody are also excellent angling destinations: the Clark's Fork of the Yellowstone, the North and South Forks of the Shoshone, and Sunlight Creek. They're located northwest of Cody along Chief Joseph Highway -- go north on Wyo. 120, 17 miles to Wyo. 296 (which is Chief Joseph). To the east, the warmer and slower Bighorn River and Bighorn Lake nurture catfish, walleye, and ling for boat fishermen. For advice on the trout streams near Cody, ask at Tim Wade's North Fork Anglers, 1107 Sheridan Ave. (tel. 307/527-7274; www.northforkanglers.com), where they stock gear and clothing and also guide day trips ($325-$400 for two) and overnight excursions. If you like to troll or cast from a boat, Buffalo Bill Reservoir, 6 miles west of Cody on Yellowstone Highway (U.S. 14/16/20), has produced some big Mackinaw, as well as rainbow, brown, and cutthroat trout.

Golf

The Olive Glenn Golf and Country Club, 802 Meadow Lane (tel. 307/587-5551; www.oliveglenngolf.com), is an 18-hole PGA championship course that is open to the public daily from 6am to 9pm. Greens fees are $35 for 9 holes and $55 for 18, cart included.

Rafting

There aren't lots of Class IV, serious white-water rapids on the rivers around Cody, but the upper stretches of the North Fork of the Shoshone River run pretty fast in the spring. Contact Wyoming River Trips, 1701 Sheridan Ave. (tel. 800/586-6661 or 307/587-6661; www.wyomingrivertrips.com), or Core Mountain Sports, 1019 15th St. (tel. 307/527-7354; www.coremountainsports.com). Prices run from about $25 to $70, depending on the length and difficulty of the trip.

Snowmobiling

The most popular Cody snowmobiling trails originate from nearby Pahaska Tepee Resort, located 51 miles from Cody on U.S. 14/16/20. The Pahaska Tepee Trail connects to the Yellowstone National Park trails and the lengthy Continental Divide Snowmobile Trail, and offers breathtaking views including Avalanche Peak (10,566 ft.) and Cody Peak (10,267 ft.). Don't take it if you're afraid of heights. The Sunlight trail system is located 36 miles north of Cody and winds through the wilds to a stunning view of the Beartooth Mountains. You start from a parking area at the junction of Wyo. 296 and U.S. 212 and follow the Beartooth Scenic Byway east for 16 miles to a warming hut. To the east, there are 70 miles of snowmobile routes in the Bighorn Mountains. Snowmobiles can be rented at Pahaska Tepee Resort and in Cody at Mountain Valley Engine Service, 422 W. Yellowstone Ave. (tel. 307/587-6218; www.mountainvalleyengine.com).

Windsurfing

The 8-mile-long, 4-mile-wide Buffalo Bill Reservoir, which receives wind from three mountain gorges, is one of the top windsurfing destinations in the continental United States. It's best experienced in the warmer months of June to September. There is a boat ramp near the campground on the north side of the reservoir, just off U.S. Hwy. 14/16/20. There are no places to rent a windsurf board in the vicinity.