What's New

Colorado is a rich combination of the old and new, urban and rural, the civilized and the wild. The state's major cities lure us with their museums, galleries, performing arts, and historic sites, but just outside their boundaries await a vast array of outdoor recreation opportunities and some of America's most beautiful mountain scenery.

Growth, which Coloradans see as both a blessing and a curse, continues to be the main change occurring here. And for at least the next few years those who venture into the mountains will see not only the remnants of damage from dozens of forest fires that plagued the state in 2002, but also how quickly the forests begin to regenerate and heal themselves.

One big statewide change went into effect in the summer of 2006 -- Colorado became the 13th state to ban smoking in restaurants, bars, and most places of business. Smoking remains legal in cigar bars and casinos, and a group of bar and restaurant owners have filed suit in an attempt to overturn the law.

Settling into Denver

Southwest Airlines has made a splash in Denver since its first flights touched down at Denver International Airport in 2006. T-REX, a major road and light-rail project was completed in 2006, making for a wider highway through the south end of town and a light-rail line alongside I-25 from the Broadway exit south to County Line Road. The first high-rise built in downtown Denver in a quarter-century, the Hyatt Regency Denver, 650 15th St. (tel. 800/233-1234 or 303/436-1234), rivals Denver's best downtown luxury hotels and has a bar, Altitude, on the 27th floor, with dramatic views. Denver also boasts some fine new restaurants. These include the Rioja, 1431 Larimer Sq. (tel. 303/820-2282), serving some of the most creative plates in town under the direction of chef-owner Jennifer Jasinski; Elway's, 2500 E. First Ave. next to the Cherry Creek Shopping Center Writer Square (tel. 303/399-5353), a popular "New West" steakhouse owned by Denver Broncos legend John Elway; Table 6, 609 Corona St. (tel. 303/831-8800), which melds slick and cozy into a great neighborhood bistro, and has a terrific wine list to boot.

What to See & Do in Denver -- The Denver Art Museum, 100 W. 14th Ave. (tel. 720/865-5000), opened its splashy new expansion designed by Daniel Libeskind in 2006, doubling the amount of exhibit space. The expansion is an avant-garde, platinum-clad building that is the most distinctive in town, if not the Rocky Mountain region. After a period of increased security and bureaucracy, it's back to business as usual for visiting the U.S. Mint, City Park, 320 W. Colfax Ave. (tel. 303/405-4757). Formerly Colorado's Ocean Journey, Downtown Aquarium, City Park, 700 Water St. (tel. 303/561-4444), remodeled, added several exhibits, and opened a restaurant and lounge. New in 2006, Lannie's Clocktower Cabaret, in the basement of the D&F Tower, 1601 Arapahoe St. (tel. 303/293-0075), is a funky bordello-inspired theater that sees a wide variety of entertainers on its stage. The Colorado Rapids (tel. 303/405-1100; www.coloradorapids.com) of Major League Soccer play at a new, soccer-only stadium in Commerce City.

Colorado Springs

Since opening in January 2006, the Summit, at The Broadmoor, 19 Lake Circle. (tel. 719/577-5896), has been the rage of the Colorado Springs restaurant scene, garnering lots of national acclaim. The strikingly contemporary room is aesthetically matched by the fare. The Black Sheep, 2106 E. Platte Ave. (tel. 710/227-7625), has emerged as a standout local rock club. The shopping scene has extended further north with the Promenade Shops at Briargate, 1885 Briargate Pkwy. (tel. 719/265-5516).

Boulder

In 2006, the Colorado Chautauqua, 900 Baseline Rd. (tel. 303/442-3282), became the first National Historical Landmark on Colorado's central Front Range. During the late 19th and early 20th centuries, more than 400 Chautauquas -- adult education and cultural entertainment centers -- sprang up around the United States, and this is one of the few remaining. The Leanin' Tree Museum of Western Art, 6055 Longbow Dr. (tel. 800/777-8716), has a new outdoor sculpture garden. On the culinary side of things, relative newcomers Frasca, 1738 Pearl St. (tel. 303/442-6966), and The Kitchen, 1039 Pearl St. (tel. 303/544-5973), have risen to the top of Boulder's dining scene in recent years. A major new outdoor shopping center, Twenty Ninth Street, is centered on the former site of the Crossroads Mall at the intersection of Canyon Blvd. and 29th St. (tel. 303/440-0722). Open since October 2006, tenants include Wild Oats, MontBell, Borders, Apple, and Century Theatres.

Northeastern Colorado

Fort Collins -- The lodging market is evolving here, with the longstanding "Home of the Rams" Holiday Inn becoming the Hilton Fort Collins, 425 W. Prospect Ave. (tel. 800/445-8667 or 970/482-2626) in 2005, and undergoing a slick renovation in the process. The year before marked the opening of the Armstrong Hotel, 259 S. College Ave. (tel. 866/384-3883 or 970/484-3883), a boutique hotel that is the only place to bunk downtown.

The Northern Rockies

Estes Park -- Shuttered for a quarter-century, Marys Lake Lodge, 2625 Mary's Lake Rd. (tel. 877/443-6279 or 970/586-5958) has reopened in the 21st century and emerged as a local standout for both lodging and dining. New in 2007: an outdoor pool and more modern condo units out front.

Shuttle buses began operating in 2006 throughout the business district of Estes Park and from Estes Park into Rocky Mountain National Park. The buses run daily from July through Labor Day; schedules are available at the Estes Park Visitor Center.

Steamboat Springs -- At the ski resort, plans for a base area redevelopment are in the works, with the first projects slated for 2007. A new standby for sandwiches to eat on-site or on the trail, Backcountry Provisions, 635 Lincoln Ave. (tel. 970/879-3617) has a great menu that caters to both vegetarians and carnivores.

Winter Park -- Devil's Thumb Ranch, Grand C.R. 83, Tabernash, 8 miles north of Winter Park (tel. 800/933-4339 or 970/726-5632), has pegged summer 2007 as the opening date of its new 53-room lodge, as well as a spa/fitness center.

Breckenridge -- A new gondola started connecting the Breckenridge Transportation Center, just off Main Street, and Peak 7 and Peak 8, opened for the 2006-07 ski season.

Vail -- A billion-dollar redevelopment of Vail Village, Vail's New Dawn is underway, a slick makeover consisting of numerous hotel, residential, retail, and infrastructure projects. The first project to be completed was the rebuilt Tivoli Lodge, 386 Hanson Ranch Rd. (tel. 800/451-4756 or 970/476-5615), which reopened in 2006 on the same spot of the original Tivoli. West of Vail, State Bridge Lodge and River Resort near Bond (tel. 970/653-4444) is under new ownership, giving the rowdy music venue a much-needed face-lift as a lodging option.

Beaver Creek -- To help get you onto the mountain faster, Beaver Creek Resort (tel. 800/404-3535) is opening a new gondola from Avon for the 2007-08 ski season.

Aspen -- One of our longstanding affordably priced favorites, the Limelight Lodge, 228 E. Cooper Ave. (tel. 800/433-0832 or 970/925-3025) was bulldozed in 2006 to make way for a killer new "green" motel on the same spot, slated to reopen during the 2007-08 ski season. Nearby Snowmass Village is in the midst of a major redevelopment.

The Western Slope

Grand Junction -- The dinosaur quarry and visitor center at Dinosaur National Monument, 4545 E. U.S. 40, Dinosaur (tel. 970/374-3000) has been closed indefinitely while much-needed structural repairs are made. There's still plenty to do there, though, and some spectacular scenic views as well.

A wonderful new antique and classic car museum opened in May 2006 about an hour's drive southwest of Grand Junction. The Gateway Colorado Auto Museum, 43200 Colo. 141, Gateway (tel. 866/671-4733 or 970/931-2458), displays about four dozen rare vehicles, all beautifully restored, in a state-of-the-art facility.

Glenwood Springs -- Glenwood Caverns Adventure Park, 51000 Two Rivers Plaza Rd. (tel. 800/530-1635 or 970/945-4228) has added more activities to its already popular tram ride and cave tours -- now there is also horseback riding, mechanical bull riding, and rock climbing.

Southwestern Colorado

Durango -- The Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, 479 Main Ave. (tel. 888/872-4607 or 970/247-2733), has added an upscale Vista Car -- offering fantastic views -- to its steam train rides.

Southern Rockies

Alamosa -- There's a new train in Southern Colorado. The Rio Grande Scenic Railroad, 601 State St. (tel. 877/726-7245) began offering scenic rides along historic train routes in late spring 2006.