Active Pursuits

It's not just fanciful marketing -- Costa Rica really is an active and adventure tourism playground. While it's possible to come to Costa Rica and stay clean and dry, most visitors want to spend some time getting their hair wet, their feet muddy, and their adrenaline pumping. Opportunities for such action range from bird-watching to scuba diving to kiteboarding, and beyond.

There are myriad approaches to planning an active vacation in Costa Rica. This chapter lays out your options, from tour operators who run multiactivity package tours that often include stays at ecolodges, to the best places in Costa Rica to pursue active endeavors (with listings of tour operators, guides, and outfitters that specialize in each), to an overview of the country's national parks and bioreserves. I also list some educational and volunteer travel options for those of you with a little more time on your hands and a desire to actively assist Costa Rica in the maintenance and preservation of its natural wonders.

Activities A to Z

Adventure activities and tourism, by their very nature, carry certain risks and dangers. Over the years, there have been several deaths and dozens of minor injuries in activities ranging from mountain biking to white-water rafting to canopy tours. I try to list only the most reputable and safest of companies. However, if you ever have any doubt as to the safety of the guide, equipment, or activity, it's better to be safe than sorry. Moreover, know your limits and abilities, and don't try to exceed them.

Bungee Jumping

Tropical Bungee (tel. 248-2212; www.bungee.co.cr) will let you jump off an 80m (262-ft.) bridge over the Río Colorado for $65 (£33), including transportation from San José and a video of your jump. A second jump will cost you another $30 (£15). The jump site is located on a small bridge over the Río Colorado about 37km (23 miles) northwest of San José, just off the Pan-American Highway. There are obvious and well-placed signs on the highway. Someone should be there from 9am to 3pm every day. They prefer for you to have a reservation, but if you show up on your own, they'll probably let you jump, unless huge groups are booked ahead of you.

Camping

Heavy rains, difficult access, and limited facilities make camping a challenge in Costa Rica. Nevertheless, a backpack and tent will get you far from the crowds and into some of the most pristine and undeveloped nooks and crannies of the country. Those who relish sleeping out on a beach but wouldn't mind a bit more luxury (beds, someone to prepare meals for you, and running water) might want to consider staying at the Corcovado Lodge Tent Camp on the Osa Peninsula or at the Almonds & Corals Tent Camp down in Manzanillo. Camping is forbidden in some national parks, so read the descriptions for each park carefully before you pack a tent.

If you'd like to participate in an organized camping trip, contact Coast to Coast Adventures (tel. 280-8054; www.ctocadventures.com) or Serendipity Adventures (tel. 877/507-1358 in the U.S. and Canada, or 558-1030; www.serendipityadventures.com).

In my opinion, the best place to pop up a tent on the beach is in Santa Rosa National Park or at the Puerto Vargas campsite in Cahuita National Park. The best camping trek is, without a doubt, a hike through Corcovado National Park or a climb up Mount Chirripó.

Cruising

Cruising options in Costa Rica range from transient cruisers setting up a quick charter business to converted fishing boats taking a few guests out to see the sunset.

The most popular cruise option is a day trip from San José (the boats actually leave from Puntarenas) to Tortuga Island in the Nicoya Gulf. Alternatively, you can book a cruise to Tortuga from Playa Montezuma at the tip of the Nicoya Peninsula. It's much cheaper from here (around $40-$50/£20-£25 per person), but the excursion doesn't include the gourmet lunch that's usually featured on cruises leaving from San José.

If diesel fumes and engine noise bother you, the best places to charter a sailboat are in Playa del Coco, Playa Hermosa, and Playa Flamingo in Guanacaste province; Playa Herradura and Quepos along the central Pacific coast; and Golfito along the southern Pacific coast. You can get information about sailboat rides and charters at any one of the larger lodgings in these areas. My favorite place to charter a sailboat is Golfito. From here, it's a pleasant, peaceful day's sail around the Golfo Dulce.

Golf

Costa Rica is not one of the world's great golfing destinations -- well, not yet, anyway. There are currently six regulation 18-hole courses open to the public and visitors, but several others are either under construction or in the planning stages, with a potential boom shaping up in Guanacaste.

Currently, the best option for golfers staying in and around San José is Parque Valle del Sol (tel. 282-9222; www.vallesol.com), an 18-hole course in the western suburb of Santa Ana. Greens fees are $85 (£43), including a cart. The Cariari Country Club (tel. 293-3211), just outside of San José, is a private course and not open to the public. However, guests at the Marriott Costa Rica and neighboring hotels can play. If you can wrangle an invitation, or are staying at a hotel with an agreement with the club, greens fees are $60 (£30), including a mandatory caddy. You should expect to tip your caddy around $10 (£5), and pay an extra $25 (£13) for a cart.

The Meliá chain also runs the Garra de León course at the Paradisus Playa Conchal resort (tel. 654-4123; www.solmelia.com) up in Guanacaste. Greens fees here are $160 (£80), including a cart. With advance notice and depending on available tee times, this course is currently open to guests at other hotels in the region.

Another major resort course is at the Los Sueños Marriott Ocean & Golf Resort in Playa Herradura (tel. 800/228-9290 in the U.S., or 630-9028; www.marriott.com). Greens fees, including a cart, run around $125 (£63) for guests of the hotel and $155 (£77) for the general public.

Hacienda Pinilla (tel. 680-7000; www.haciendapinilla.com) is an 18-hole links-style course located south of Tamarindo. This might just be the most challenging course in the country, and the facilities, though limited, are top-notch. Currently, the course is open to golfers staying at hotels around the area, with advance reservations. Greens fees run around $150 (£75) for 18 holes, including a cart.

The newest and most spectacular course in Costa Rica is at Four Seasons Resort (tel. 212/688-2440 in the U.S., or 696-0871; www.fourseasons.com), but it is open only to hotel guests. Greens fees run around $185 (£93).

Golfers who want the most up-to-date information, or those who are interested in a package deal that includes play on a variety of courses, should contact Costa Rica Golf Adventures (tel. 877/258-2688; www.golfcr.com).

Hang Gliding, Paragliding & Ballooning

Paragliding with a pilot in a tandem rig is taking off (pardon the pun) in the cliff areas around Caldera, just south of Puntarenas, as well as other spots around Costa Rica. If you're looking to paraglide, check in with the folks at the Costa Rican Association of Free Flying (www.parapente-costa-rica.org).

Serendipity Adventures (tel. 877/507-1358 in the U.S. and Canada, or 558-1000; www.serendipityadventures.com) will take you up, up, and away in a hot-air balloon on a variety of single- or multiday tours, either in Turrialba, in Naranjo, or near Arenal Volcano. A basic flight costs around $570 (£285) for two people, or $990 (£495) for up to five people or 800 pounds.

Hang Glide Costa Rica (tel. 353-5514; www.hangglidecr.com) offers about a half-hour of gentle hang gliding in a tandem rig, which begins with a tow by an ultralight, for $99 to $150 (£50-£75) per person.

Horseback Riding

Costa Rica's rural roots are evident in the continued use of horses for real work and transportation throughout the country. Visitors will find that horses are easily available for riding, whether you want to take a sunset trot along the beach, ride through the cloud forest, or take a multiday trek through the northern zone.

Most travelers simply saddle up for a couple of hours, but those looking for a more specifically equestrian-based visit should check in with the following folks.

Coast to Coast Adventures (tel. 280-8054; www.ctocadventures.com) specializes in 2-week trips spanning the country via horseback, raft, or mountain bike, as well as on foot, with no motor vehicles involved. Other trips are also available.

Nature Lodge Finca Los Caballos (tel./fax 642-0124; www.naturelodge.net) has the healthiest horses in the Montezuma area.

Serendipity Adventures (tel. 877/507-1358 in the U.S. and Canada, or 558-1030; www.serendipityadventures.com) offers horseback treks and tours.

Tai Chi in Paradise

For the past 18 years, tai chi master and two-time U.S. national champion Chris Luth has been leading weeklong retreats to Costa Rica, combining intensive classes in this ancient Chinese martial art with rainforest hikes, river rafting, and just enough beach time. For more information, contact T'ai Chi in Paradise (tel. 858/259-1396; www.taichiinparadise.com).

Motorcycles

Visiting bikers can either cruise the highways or try some off-road biking around Costa Rica. All the caveats about driving conditions and driving customs in Costa Rica apply equally for bikers. If you want to rent a Harley-Davidson for cruising around the country, María Alexandra Tours (tel. 289-5552; www.mariaalexandra.com) conducts guided bike tours, and rents well-equipped late-model Harleys by the day or the week. If your tastes run to off-road riding, MotoAdventures (tel. 228-8494; www.motoadventuring.com) runs guided multiday tours on Honda dirt bikes.

Rock Climbing

Although this is a nascent sport in Costa Rica, the possibilities are promising. There are several challenging rock formations close to San José and along the Cerro de la Muerte, as well as great climbing opportunities on Mount Chirripó. The folks at Tropical Bungee (tel. 248-2212; www.bungee.co.cr) are the most dependable operators in this field, and they regularly organize climbing outings. Alternatively, you could visit Mundo Aventura (tel. 221-6934; www.maventura.com), an adventure- and climbing-gear store with an indoor climbing wall and in-house tour company.

Surfing

When Endless Summer II, the sequel to the all-time surf classic, was filmed, the production crew brought its boards and cameras to Costa Rica. Point and beach breaks that work year-round are located all along Costa Rica's immense coastline. Playas Hermosa, Jacó, and Dominical, on the central Pacific coast, and Tamarindo and Playa Guiones, in Guanacaste, are becoming mini surf meccas. Salsa Brava in Puerto Viejo is a steep and fast wave that peels off both right and left over shallow coral. It has a habit of breaking boards, but the daredevils keep coming back for more. Beginners and folks looking to learn should stick to the mellower sections of Jacó and Tamarindo -- surf lessons are offered at both beaches. Crowds are starting to gather at the more popular breaks, but you can still stumble onto secret spots on the Osa and Nicoya peninsulas and along the northern Guanacaste coast. Costa Rica's signature wave is still found at Playa Pavones, which is reputed to have one of the longest lefts in the world. The cognoscenti, however, also swear by places such as Playa Grande, Playa Negra, Matapalo, Malpaís, and Witch's Rock. An avid surfer's best bet is to rent a dependable four-wheel-drive vehicle with a rack and take a surfin' safari around the breaks of Guanacaste.

If you're looking for an organized surf vacation, contact Tico Travel (tel. 800/493-8426 in the U.S.; www.ticotravel.com), or check out www.crsurf.com. For swell reports, general surf information, live wave-cams, and great links pages, point your browser to www.surfline.com. Tico Travel also has a surf break map with at www.ticotravel.com/surfing. Although killer sets are possible at any particular spot at any time of the year, depending upon swell direction, local winds, and distant storms, in broad terms, the northern coast of Guanacaste works best from December to April; the central and southern Pacific coasts work best from April to November; and the Caribbean coast's short big-wave season is December through March.

Windsurfing & Kiteboarding

Windsurfing is not very popular on the high seas here, where winds are fickle and rental options are limited, even at beach hotels. However, Lake Arenal is considered one of the top spots in the world for high-wind boardsailing. During the winter months, many of the regulars from Washington's Columbia River Gorge take up residence around the nearby town of Tilarán. Small boards, water starts, and fancy gibes are the norm. The best time for windsurfing on Lake Arenal is between December and March. The same winds that buffet Lake Arenal make their way down to Bahía Salinas (also known as Bolaños Bay), near La Cruz, Guanacaste, where you can get in some good windsurfing. Both spots have also recently seen the opening of operations offering lessons and equipment rentals in the new high-action sport of kiteboarding.