What's New

Costa Rica hasn't been the new kid on the block for many years now -- tourism here has definitely matured. Still, change and growth remain fairly constant. Here are some highlights related to new hotels and restaurants, and assorted other developments you'll find in this guide.

Planning Your Trip

In March 2008, Costa Rica changed from a seven-digit to an eight-digit phone numbering system. Seven-digit numbers will be changed by adding a "2" to the beginning of all land-line numbers, and an "8" to the beginning of all cellphone numbers. All of the phone numbers listed in this guide are the current eight-digit numbers. However, if you come across an old seven-digit number (on a billboard or brochure, for example) here's what you do: Old cellphone numbers began either with a "3" or "8." All other numbers were land lines. Toll-free and emergency numbers were not affected.

As of February 2008, the official exchange rate was 500 colones to the U.S. dollar, or 1,000 colones to the British pound.

Local carrier Sansa (tel. 877/767-2672 in the U.S. and Canada, or 2290-4100 in Costa Rica; www.flysansa.com) has added four weekly flights between San José and David, Panama.

Dengue fever has become an increasing problem in Costa Rica, up some 150% in 2007, as compared to the previous year. The worst-hit areas include Limón, Liberia, and the beaches of Guanacaste.

Costa Rica is also now requiring proof of a yellow fever vaccination from all visitors who have recently been traveling in a country or region known to have yellow fever.

In 2008, the Costa Rican government raised the entrance fee to almost all national parks to $10 (£5). Chirripó National Park is one major exception, costing $15 (£7.50) per day.

Beginning February 2008, Delta (www.delta.com) began offering twice weekly (Wed and Sat) direct flights between New York's JFK and Liberia's Daniel Oduber International airports.

San Jose

Following the success of the recent transformation of a section of Avenida Central, Avenida 4 has been expanded as a pedestrian-only boulevard between Calle 9 and Calle 14.

If you want to take advantage of these pedestrian boulevards, check out Tico Walks (tel. 2283-8281; www.ticowalks.com), a new regularly scheduled walking tour of downtown San José.

While still a worthwhile visit, the Museo de Jade Marco Fidel Tristán (Jade Museum) has raised its admission fee considerably to $7 (£3.50).

In January 2008, the long-standing San José resort hotel Melia Cariari was taken over by the Hilton group and is now the Doubletree Cariari By Hilton (tel. 800/222-8733 in the U.S. and Canada; www.cariarisanjose.doubletree.com). Meanwhile, the former Tryp Corobicí is now the Crowne Plaza Corobicí (tel. 800/227-6963 in the U.S. and Canada; www.crowneplaza.com).

One of my favorite downtown restaurants, Bakea, closed its doors in 2008. Luckily, the void has been more than ably filled by Park Café (tel. 2290-6324), which serves up fine dining in a beautiful ambience.

Those looking for live music will be happy to know that the popular Jazz Café, in San Pedro, has opened up a sister club, Jazz Café Escazú, on the western side of town.

Guanacaste

Nature Air (tel. 800/235-9272 in the U.S. and Canada or 2299-6000; www.natureair.com) now offers a 1-hour Sky Tour sightseeing excursion leaving from Liberia, in one of its 18-seat twin-engine planes equipped with large picture windows along the length of both sides of the fuselage.

In late 2008, the Hilton hotel group took over the former Fiesta Premier Resort and Spa. The renamed Hilton Papagayo Resort (tel. 800/445-8667; www.hilton.com) has received much-needed attention both in upkeep and remodeling, and in the realm of service.

Over in Playa del Coco, the popular restaurant and beach club Café de Playa has added five luxury rooms, the Suites at Café de Playa (tel. 2670-1553; www.merymer.com), easily the most comfortable beachfront rooms to be had in this town.

In Playa Flamingo, the long-standing and popular restaurant Marie's (tel. 2654-4136) is well-settled and thriving in its new, improved, and greatly expanded digs.

In Tamarindo, the beachfront budget hotel, Cabinas Dolly, has been razed as part of the sporadic enforcement of Costa Rica's strict laws regarding construction in the "maritime zone." A similar fate befell the Zully Mar (tel. 2653-0023) restaurant last year, but it has been rebuilt and reopened, just a little bit farther from the waves, but still facing the sea.

In January 2008, the Allegro Papagayo Resort was ordered shut down by the Costa Rican Ministry of Health, after having been found to be illegally dumping raw sewage directly into the ocean and clandestinely dumping more raw sewage into nearby local communities. After making some improvements, they were operating at half capacity when this guide was published. In a more generalized, yet related issue, water samples all around Tamarindo at the end of the rainy season revealed high levels of fecal matter in prime tourist beach spots. Over-construction and shoddy waste-disposal practices are the culprit here. This is a massive problem in Costa Rica, given lax government oversight and rampant corruption.

The Marriott, Westin, and Regent resort hotel groups all have large-scale resorts in the works in this area, which should open sometime during the 2009 or 2010 seasons.

Puntarenas & the Nicoya Peninsula

On the outskirts of Puntarenas, the Hilton hotel group has taken over and remodeled the former Fiesta Premier Beach Resort, and is operating it as the all-inclusive Double Tree Resort Puntarenas (tel. 800/222-8733 in the U.S. and Canada, or 2663-0808 in Costa Rica; www.puntarenas.doubletree.com).

In Montezuma, the Mariposario Montezuma Gardens (tel. 8888-4200) is a lovely new "butterfly garden" attraction, offering guided tours through its lovely gardens and butterfly breeding grounds.

Also in Montezuma, the Ylang Ylang Beach Resort (tel. 2642-0636; www.ylangylangresort.com) has added several "jungalows," semi-permanent tents with comfortable beds, ceiling fans, a small front porch, and access to shared bathrooms and showers.

You may find paparazzi hanging around just outside Playa Samara, where the actor Mel Gibson has bought the former Hacienda Dorada as a private vacation home. Whether or not you come here to catch a glimpse of the Australian-born star, the new Samara Tree House Inn (tel. 2656-0733; www.samaratreehouse.com) is a beachfront hotel that is worth considering.

The Northern Zone

In Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí, the Gavilán Sarapiquí River Lodge (tel. 2234-9507; www.gavilanlodge.com) has added four new superior rooms. Nearby, hotel Sueño Azul (tel. 2253-2020; www.suenoazulresort.com) has put in a trapeze setup, and now offers classes in this exhilarating circus art.

Two long-standing budget hotels in downtown La Fortuna, Hotel La Fortuna (tel. 2479-9197; www.fortunainn.com) and Hotel Las Colinas (tel. 2479-9305; www.lascolinasarenal.com), were both torn to the ground and rebuilt much bigger and better than before. Out on the outskirts of town, on the road to Tabacón, the new Magic Mountain Hotel (tel. 2479-7246; www.hotelmagicmountain.com) has brought a bit of luxury to this rustic little town.

Along the road around Lake Arenal, the Arenal Botanical Gardens has sadly closed, after years of delighting tourists and hummingbirds (who came to feed) alike.

Meanwhile, tourists traveling into the mists of Monteverde will be pleased to find the road in and around the central hub town of Santa Elena has been paved, although the ride up is still rough and rocky.

Also in Monteverde, the Hotel El Sapo Dorado (tel. 2645-5010; www.sapodorado.com) is remodeling all its rooms, and has built a big new restaurant and reception area down by the main road between Santa Elena and the Cloud Forest Preserve. And the folks behind the popular restaurant Sofia have opened a sister restaurant, Chimera (tel. 2645-6081), serving a wide range of creative tapas in a cozy, yet sophisticated, setting.

Central Pacific Coast

The dining scene is heating up in Playa Herradura, with the opening of several new restaurants in the marina at the Marriott Los Sueños Resort. El Galeón (tel. 2637-8536) is my top choice here for its excellent fusion cuisine, but you can also get sushi at Bambu, Italian fare at La Linterna, and American-style bar food at the Hook Up.

Construction is underway on a 270-slip Marina Pez Vela, in Quepos. In addition to the 270-slip marina, the complex will boast restaurants, shops, condominium units, and a small hotel. Work is expected to be completed in early 2009.

In Dominical, the hotel Domilocos (tel. 2787-0244; www.domilocos.com) has been expanded, remodeled, and reopened.

If you plan on climbing Mount Chirripó, be forewarned that rates have gone up to $15 (£7.50) per day for the national park fee, and sleeping space at the summit lodge has been limited to just 25 climbers per day.

The Southern Zone

Sansa (tel. 877/767-2672 in the U.S. and Canada, or 2290-4100 in Costa Rica; www.flysansa.com) now has twice-daily flights between Drake Bay and Puerto Jiménez. This 25-minute flight leaves Drake Bay at 7 and 11:55am. The return flights leave Puerto Jiménez at 1:28 and 3:42pm. The one-way fare is $40 (£20).

Although not as fast as flying, there are now speedboats working as boat taxis between Puerto Jiménez and Golfito. The fare is $5 (£2.50), and the ride takes a little under 30 minutes. These boats leave several times throughout the day, beginning at around 6am.

The Caribbean Coast

Luxury has come to Tortuguero with the opening of the Manatus Hotel (tel. 2239-4854; www.manatushotel.com), an upscale boutique hotel located right on Tortuguero's main canal.

In Cahuita, the long-standing and deservedly popular restaurant, Casa Creole, has closed and is for sale.

Down in Puerto Viejo, the new Banana Azul Guest House (tel. 2750-2035; www.bananaazul.com) is an outstanding option on an isolated section of Playa Negra, north of town. Also in Puerto Viejo, the ever popular El Loco Natural (tel. 2750-0263) has a new location just south of downtown, across from the Cut Back bar.