Biking

There are several significant regional and international touring races in Costa Rica each year, but as a general rule the major roads are dangerous and inhospitable for cyclists. Roads are narrow, there's usually no shoulder, and most drivers show little care or consideration for those on two wheels. The options are much more appealing for mountain bikers and off-track riders. Fat-tire explorations are still relatively new to Costa Rica, but options are growing fast. If you plan to do a lot of biking and are very attached to your rig, bring your own. However, several companies in San José and elsewhere rent bikes, and the quality of the equipment is improving all the time.

The area around Lake Arenal and Arenal Volcano wins my vote as the best place for mountain biking in Costa Rica. The scenery's great, with primary forests, waterfalls, and plenty of trails. And the hot springs at nearby Tabacón Grand Spa Thermal Resort is a perfect place for those with aching muscles to unwind at the end of the day.

Tour Operators & Outfitters

Bike Arenal (tel. 866/465-4114 in U.S. and Canada, or 2479-9454; www.bikearenal.com) is based in La Fortuna and specializes in 1-day and multiday trips around the Arenal area.

Coast to Coast Adventures (tel. 2280-8054; www.ctocadventures.com) offers mountain-biking itineraries among its many tour options.

Costa Rica Biking Adventures (tel. 2235-4982; www.bikingincostarica.com) is a local outfit offering day trips and multiday excursions around the country using high-quality Trek and Cannondale bikes.

ExperiencePlus! Specialty Tours (tel. 800/685-4565 or 970/484-8489 in the U.S.; www.experienceplus.com) offers guided group and assisted individual bike tours around the country. This is the only company I know of that uses touring bikes. It also offers guided group hiking tours.

Lava Tours (tel. 888/862-2424 in the U.S. and Canada, or 2278-2558; www.lava-tours.com) conducts a variety of fixed-date-departure and custom mountain-bike tours all over Costa Rica.

Serendipity Adventures (tel. 877/507-1358 in the U.S. and Canada, or 2558-1030; www.serendipityadventures.com) offers several mountain-biking trips among its many other expeditions.

Ruta de los Conquistadores

Each year, Costa Rica hosts what many consider to be the most challenging and grueling mountain-bike race on the planet. La Ruta de los Conquistadores (the Route of the Conquerors; www.adventurerace.com) retraces the path of the 16th-century Spanish conquistadores from the Pacific Coast to the Caribbean Sea -- all in 4 days. The race usually takes place in mid-November, and draws hundreds of competitors from around the world.