What's New

Cuba seems to defy Benjamin Disraeli's famous maxim that "Change is constant." Some things never change in Cuba, including the government, architecture, and the fleet of old American cars. Other things, including the hotel and restaurant scene, change at a dizzying pace. The most important changes and new developments in the tourism field are listed here.

Castro Update

In July of 2006, Fidel Castro handed off the reins of government for the first time in 47 years. The reins were not passed far. In fact, Fidel turned over the day-to-day chores of governing to his younger brother Raúl, who was already the head of the Cuban armed forces and the head of Cuba's Communist party. As this book goes to press, rumors and conjecture continue to swirl. Castro, who turned 80 on August 13, 2006, underwent surgery for an undisclosed abdominal condition on July 31. Some say he is in the late terminal stages of stomach or intestinal cancer. In recent years, there have been news reports that the charismatic leader had Parkinson's disease, a terminal brain tumor, and any number of other illnesses and ailments. The Cuban government says he is doing fine and will live a long and fruitful life. As of mid-October, 2006, he has not resumed his duties as Cuba's president, and he has been seen very little in public.

News of Castro's illness led to celebrations in the Cuban-exile community of Miami. There literally was dancing in the streets. However, these celebrations have proven to be a bit premature. As exiles, politicians, and pundits discuss the changes that will occur in a post-Castro Cuba, there is little indication of any immediate or imminent changes. While common wisdom states that Raúl Castro lacks the charm, charisma, and love of the people that his older brother commands, the fact is that over the past 47 years, the Castro brothers and the Cuban Communist party have built a massive and enduring system that is unlikely to simply crumble as soon as Fidel Castro dies.

Planning Your Trip

The Cuban government has sought to discourage the use of U.S. dollars in Cuba by placing a 10% surcharge on any official exchange of U.S. dollars to the Cuban convertible peso, or CUC. To avoid this surcharge, it is best to travel with euros or British pounds.

Havana

The Hotel Saratoga (tel. 7/868-1000; www.hotel-saratoga.com) is a stunning and wonderfully executed new luxury hotel in the heart of Habana Vieja.

The NH Parque Central (tel. 7/860-6627; www.nh-hoteles.es) is building an annex of 149 new rooms. The annex adjoins the current structure and will blend in architecturally. Construction of these new rooms is expected to be finished by late 2007.

Although it's by no means new, I just recently discovered the increasingly poorly kept secret dining spot Los Nardos (tel. 7/863-2985), located up a rickety flight of stairs entered through an almost unmarked doorway just across the street from El Capitolio.

Viñales & Western Cuba

Downtown Pinar del Rio finally has a reasonable hotel option. The new Hotel Vuelta Abajo (tel. 82/75-9381; www.islazul.cu) is housed in a wonderfully restored colonial building in the heart of the city's bustling downtown.

There's a new zip-line and harness Canopy Tour at the Las Terrazas (tel. 7/204-3739; www.lasterrazas.cu) tourism project.

Caradero & Matanzas Province

The new luxury resort Sandals Princesa del Mar (tel. 45/66-7200; www.sandalsprincesadelmar.com) has finally gotten into a groove, after struggling for a couple of years to find a management team.

The venerable Meliá Las Américas (tel. 45/66-7600; www.solmeliacuba.com) has been reserved for adults-only, and converted to an all-inclusive regime. They also have a new sushi restaurant and separate new steakhouse and grill.

The former Maritim Varadero Beach Resort has been taken over by the Cuban Gaviota group and rechristened the Playa Alameda Varadero (tel. 45/66-8822; www.gaviota-grupo.com). It remains one of the most luxurious options in Varadero.

The Beaches Varadero was closed for an indefinite period and major remodeling in 2006. It is rumored that the Sandals hotel chain may give up its management contract over this property.

Trinidad & Central Cuba

In Cienfuegos, the new Hostal Palacio Azul (tel. 432/55-5828; www.hotelescubanacan.com) is an excellent new budget option overlooking the city's harbor in the desirable Punta Gorda section of town.

Next door to the Palacio Azul, and following an extensive remodeling, the Club Cienfuegos (tel. 432/51-2891) is a wonderful complex featuring a couple of restaurants, a bar, and a small marina.

In the heart of colonial Trinidad, the new Gran Hotel Iberostar Trinidad (tel. 419/6073; www.iberostar.com) has significantly upped the bar for accommodations in this historic old city.

Things are heating up out on the Cayería del Norte, where the new Occidental Royal Hideaway Ensenachos (tel. 7/204-3584; www.occidental-hoteles.com) has opened up with over 500 luxury rooms set just steps away from two of the most beautiful beaches in the country.

A little farther out on the cays, construction is still underway on the Meliá Las Dunas (tel. 42/35-0100; www.solmeliacuba.com), which will add another 900 or so rooms to the region. All three of the Meliá properties share the delightful and luxurious new Aguas Claras Spa.

Camagüey & The Northeastern Coast

In Morón, the former Carrusel Morón hotel is now Hotel Morón (tel. 33/5-2230; www.islazul.cu), having been transferred from the Cubanacán Chain to the Islazul chain.

Out on Cayo Coco, the former El Senador resort has been taken over by the NH hotel group and rechristened NH Krystal Laguna Villas & Resort (tel. 33/30-1470; www.nh-hotels.com). The massive resort is also in the midst of an $8-million makeover.

Also, on Cayo Coco, the new Acuavida Talasoterapia (tel. 33/30-2157) is a large spa facility offering a wide range of spa treatments and services.

El Oriente

The former Martim Costa Verde Beach Resort is now under management by the Spanish Blau chain, and aside from the minor name change to the Blau Costa Verde Beach Resort (tel. 24/3-0510; www.blau-hotels.com), little else has changed dramatically here.

Santiago de Cuba

Right in the heart of downtown Santiago, the Hostal Basilio (tel. 22/65-1702) is an excellent new midrange hotel option.

Just down the road from the Hostal Basilio, the elegant, yet inexpensive, Santiago 1900 (tel. 22/62-3507) is a great restaurant choice, with a variety of different rooms, patios, and balcony dining areas to choose from.

While it's been closed for over a year, it's worth checking to see if the Bello Bar is open again on the 15th floor of the Meliá Santiago hotel.