Getting There

By Plane

Cuba has 10 international airports. Havana is by far the principal gateway, although there are numerous regularly scheduled and charter flights to Varadero (VRA) and Santiago de Cuba (SCU) as well. To a lesser extent, international charter flights from Canada and Europe service Cayo Largo del Sur (CYO), Cienfuegos (CFG), Santa Clara (SNU), Camagüey (CMW), Ciego de Avila (AVI), Holguín (HOG), and Cayo Coco (CCC).

It's roughly a 70-minute flight from Miami to Havana; 3 hours and 30 minutes from New York to Havana; 4 hours and 30 minutes from Toronto or Montreal to Havana; and 10 hours from London to Havana. Most of the principal Caribbean basin gateway cities -- Cancún, George Town (Grand Cayman), Kingston, Nassau, and Santo Domingo -- are between 30 and 90 minutes to Havana by air.

Airfares vary widely, depending on the season, demand, and certain ticketing restrictions. But given the high number of charter flights and package tours to Cuba, combined with the stiff competition for vacation travel throughout the Caribbean, airfares are relatively cheap, and bargains abound. It really pays to shop around.

Cubana (tel. 7/834-4446; www.cubana.cu) is Cuba's national airline and the principal carrier to the island, with regularly scheduled flights to a score of cities throughout the Americas, Europe, and Canada. Other carriers with regularly scheduled or charter service to Cuba include Air Jamaica, Air Canada, Air Europa, Air Transat, Blue Panorama, Condor Airways, Grupo Taca, Iberia, Martinair, Mexicana, and Virgin Atlantic.

There is no regularly scheduled service between the United States and Cuba, although there are numerous charter flights from Miami, and to a lesser extent from New York and Los Angeles. Licensed U.S. travelers are eligible to use these flights.

Arriving at the Airport

Immigration & Customs Clearance -- Queues can be extremely long when you pass through the Havana airport immigration booths, where you are studied by officials and a camera. Once through, you must have your hand luggage scanned again, collect your bags from one of the two carousels (they're not connected, despite appearances), and clear customs. The last process is now remarkably speedy.

Getting into Town from the Airport -- Taxis line up outside the arrivals hall and you will be shepherded to the first in the queue. Despite it being illegal to carry passengers without using the meter, airport taxi drivers will refuse to use them and charge a flat fee of around CUC$20 (US$22/£11) to Vedado and CUC$25 (US$27/£14) to the airport. The metered fee is around CUC$15 (US$16/£8). However, you have no other options if you have no prebooked pickup. Note: All taxis have been brought under the Ministry of Transport umbrella and are known as Cubataxi throughout the country; however, the different companies, such as Panataxi and Taxi OK, continue to operate with their own cars and different prices.

By Boat

When arriving by sea, contact the port authorities before entering Cuban waters 19km (12 miles) offshore on VHF channels 16, 19, or 72, or HF channels 2790, 7462, 2420, or 2460. Skippers do not need to give advance notice or have a prior visa. A visa can be granted on arrival. All crew members must have current passports, and U.S. Treasury Department restrictions apply to all U.S. citizens. Skippers will also need to register their vessel upon arrival. A special permit, or permiso especial de navigación, is issued. This permit costs around CUC$50 (US$54/£27) depending on the length of the vessel.

Cuba has a network of state-run, full-service marinas, many run by Nautica Marlin (www.nauticamarlin.com) and Gaviota (www.gaviota-grupo.com). Marinas that function as official points of entry and exit include those in Jardines del Rey, María la Gorda, Cayo Largo del Sur, Cienfuegos, and Santiago de Cuba, as well as the Marina Hemingway in Havana and Marina Dársena in Varadero.

Good resources for any sailor planning to visit Cuba are Simon Charles's The Cruising Guide to Cuba (Cruising Guide Publications, 1997) and Nigel Calder's Cuba: A Cruising Guide (Imray, Laurie, Norie & Wilson, 1999). While a little dated, both books are full of invaluable information, tips, and firsthand experiences aimed at cruising sailors.