Tropicana, Havana (tel. 7/267-1010): This is the original and still reigning cabaret show in Cuba. The Tropicana has been at it for over 60 years and it shows no signs of slowing down. The sea of lithe dancers, the exuberance of their costumes, and the sheer excess of it all is worth the trip. It all occurs under the stars in the shadow of tall overhanging trees. There's a second Tropicana in Matanzas for visitors to Varadero, and another in Santiago.
El Gato Tuerto, Havana (tel. 7/55-2696): The mood is dark and bohemian, although the decor mixes Art Deco and kitsch in equal measure. The nightly show usually features three or four distinct acts, which can range from sultry boleros to up-tempo jazz. A storyteller, poet, or comedian might perform between sets.
La Zorra y El Cuervo, Havana (tel. 7/833-2402): This is Havana's best jazz club, and that's saying a lot. The vibe is mellow and unpretentious in this compact basement club, but the music and acts are usually culled from the best Cuba has to offer.
Habana Café, Havana (tel. 7/833-3636, ext 2630) and Varadero (tel. 45/66-8070): Mix the Tropicana with a Hard Rock Cafe, and Habana Café is more or less what you'd get. The floor show is a mix of cabaret-style dance numbers and slightly burlesque comedic bits, all anchored by a top-notch big band. After the show, the dance floor swings and writhes for hours.
Discoteca Las Cuevas, north of Viñales (tel. 8/79-6290): With a good sound system and lights bouncing off the stalactites, this is by far the best party spot in the Viñales Valley.
Trinidad: Trinidad's popularity has ensured a steady menu of live-music offerings. Cuban bands play under the stars on the steps of the Casa de la Música until more energetic dancing and music get underway inside. The local Casa de la Trova also has a nightly roster of traditional Cuban bands, and even small, relaxed spots like the patio bars La Canchánchara and Ruinas de Segarte feature live son. If that's too traditional, then check out La Cueva, a funky dance club in a cave.
Casa de la Trova, Camagüey and Santiago de Cuba: Perhaps the country's two best Casas de la Trova, the traditional Cuban live-music spots, are in Camagüey and Santiago de Cuba. Camagüey's Casa is agreeably low-key, while Santiago's is legendary, having given birth to dozens of Cuba's most respected musicians and bands. Both are great places to mix with locals, try out some dance moves, and sip a mojito.
Calle Antonio Maceo, Baracoa: Tiny Baracoa rocks at night with its own little version of Bourbon Street. People spill out of a half-dozen cafes, bars, and live-music venues, shifting gears from traditional trova to son and dance music to full-throttle dance club. Amiable emcees entertain audiences with romantic poetry and humor.
