Most hotel options in Cuba have been divvied up among a few large state-run chains: Islazul, Gaviota, Cubanacán, Gran Caribe, and Habaguanex. These chains generally stake out distinct territories. Habaguanex has near monopoly control over the hotel scene in Habana Vieja in Havana. Their properties tend to be in the midrange to upper end, and most are in beautifully restored colonial buildings. Gaviota, Cubanacán, and Gran Caribe divvy up the remainder of the midrange to upper-end offerings around the country. Islazul runs the most economical hotels, although they have begun refurbishing some real gems in the colonial heart of some of Cuba's more interesting cities.
In recent years, these large state-run companies have begun signing management contracts with international hotel chains, usually resulting in improved service and hospitality. While the international Barceló, Corralia, Maritim, and Occidental chains run a few hotels each, predominantly in Havana and Varadero, the major player is the Spanish Sol Meliá chain, which manages 25 midrange to high-end properties in Cuba. In general, the Sol Meliá hotels are some of the best run and most comfortable in the country.
At most of Cuba's principal beach resorts, the majority of hotels are large all-inclusive resorts. Most work with large groups of Canadian and European travelers on weeklong charter packages. These feature a steady diet of buffet meals, organized activities and entertainment, and late-night revelry. These are not the places to come if you want to explore and experience Cuba and its culture. Also, if you're staying at an all-inclusive, you should book the a la carte restaurant options as soon as possible during peak seasons, or you'll be eating all your meals at the crowded buffets.
Aside from official hotels and resorts, the other principal lodging option in Cuba is a casa particular, or private house. To meet demand and inject just a bit of economic relief (and nascent capitalism) into the system, the government has authorized certain households to rent out rooms. An official casa particular should display a small plaque or sticker declaring it to be a government sanctioned casa. The newest symbol appears to be a blue capital "H" set on its side, with slightly bent horizontal lines, and the top horizontal line longer than the bottom one. It should also say arrendador divisa. Alternately, you might see one of the older plaques or stickers with of one or two inverted blue or green "V"s. Following a recent policy change, casas particulares can have no more than two rooms for rent. Most are quite modest -- you are basically living with a Cuban family. It's a crapshoot whether or not they'll have a private bathroom. On the upside, most casas particulares offer meals at very reasonable prices, and staying in one is a great way to meet and interact with Cubans (something much, much harder to do at "official" hotels and resorts).
Be aware that if you show up at a casa particular on the recommendation of a taxi driver or jinetero, they will expect a commission of between CUC$1 and CUC$5, which is invariably added on to your bill.
Snuggle Up -- King- and queen-size beds are at a premium in Cuba. Very few of the midrange options offer beds big enough for two adults, and even some of the fancier hotels, including many of the Habaguanex properties, only offer rooms with two twins.
